3D Printing Forum

Raft with air option was suggested by tinkergnome

Here we go.

First portion of first layer. 232C bed 80C. Will lower to 230.

Setting changes from last time....I just lowered print head temp to 230 and bed to 77

Boy the print time went from 15 hours to 24 according to the machine!

Layer two and three

Yea raft is a click and forget about time. The separation will give you trouble if the bottom touches the print that's why I suggested just raft. The airgap cut yo 0 will work perfect only with full support firat layers, otherwise the print won't separate from print.

Paul, what about taking a.2 or even.3mm first layer, let it really get squished into the bed?

Here's the print as it goes now....2 hours left...so it'll have to finish while I am away at work.

I don't think it'll be too awful to remove once done

The back of my UM2 doesn't have where the old filament spool guide would connect

So...I need to use this one....anyone else use it?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1245216

This was my bearing guide set up before I fitted the Bondtech feeder, I'm about to redesign it to better suit the Bondtech setup.
I will redesign using the screwholes and not the UM2 filament guide mounting hole so that it can be more universal.

LePaul wrote:The back of my UM2 doesn't have where the old filament spool guide would connect

Sounds strange... why would your UM2 not have it? Can you sent a picture of how that area looks like on yours? I wonder if they changed the backplate during production.

Well it has the hole, as pictured in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1245216

But apparently there used to be another for the guide?

So with this design, you are taking the screw out that holds one of the backplates and replacing it with a longer one to holder the feeder

For the original guide and the one with bearing that I use, only these two wholes as marked on the picture are needed:

I'm printing this one...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:436528

I hadn't though very far ahead....but...how's it supposed to attach to the printer

That one looks more complicated than the one with a bearing that I use. It looks like you have to fiddle the last part into the lower, keyhole shaped opening and then turn it so that it can not be pulled out anymore and then fully tighten the screw.
The original and mine are inserted into the keyhole slot and then just twisted counter clockwise 90° until a nose on it snaps into the smaller vertical slot above the keyhole shaped slot. That holds it in place.

Okay.

That last piece on the left...I can't tell if it is threaded in Cura. I see the machine screw winds up inside

When I checked with the m4 screw they advise, it wouldn't fit that lower portion of the "mounting nut"

See page 16 on the UM2 user manual for the mounting of the original and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:388560