3D Printing Forum

LOL amedee SSFS!! Hahahahahaha!!!! And glad you like it !

And that's with the bad shroud... The untested one should be even better (if works...).

I'm in the process of changing my third umo+ to um2. It's just so much better (with 40x40x20 fans ofc) the weak um2 fans can't blow a candle

I am now printing full plate size objects (208x208) wit nGen, which mean that I have a long and warm first layer (240°C nozzle, 80°C bed and no fan for more than an hour for the first layer)

With that the nGen shroud start to flex a bit under the heater block, pulling a bit the fan down.
Not a lot, but I didn't liked it as I was not sure it it would stop there or get worse.

So I just put a tie-wrap around the top of fans to keep them horizontal, and so far it seems to do the trick.
It will run with that kind of print 24x7 for the next few days, so we will see how it goes

Umm I see. I had that problem with pla on the areas without alu tape. So my plan to use eco-tec pla stills in place then. Thanks! I'll try to print with this weird pla that goes 120C I suppose it's the way to go to use anykind of bed temp.

Ohhh also! Remember that 5V fan? That cold down the upper area. Peek bottom reachs 160C in 2-3h and 80C on the upper side. So that might be giving trouble too.

Neotko wrote:Umm I see. I had that problem with pla on the areas without alu tape. So my plan to use eco-tec pla stills in place then. Thanks! I'll try to print with this weird pla that goes 120C I suppose it's the way to go to use anykind of bed temp.

Yes, for all prints that need fans it cools by itself, but for the hot prints without fan, it starts to be soft. I still have a spool of ABS I never use, I'll give it a try. But so far, the tie-wrap do the trick, it doesn't look fancy but it works!

Neotko wrote:Ohhh also! Remember that 5V fan? That cold down the upper area. Peek bottom reachs 160C in 2-3h and 80C on the upper side. So that might be giving trouble too.

Indeed. I have received them this week, but I can't tweak anything right now, both printers need to...
... print

But is is my next thing on the list.

This is what keeps me busy right now (you can see the tie-wrap):

That actually it's a brilliant idea.

I now run with a small amount of fan, say 20-30% enough to for a flow through the ducts but not enough to cool the bed or parts, this seems to work better for me

Um2 for umo fancap overhang test

I must say that I did quite a nicefancap

Can't show the full print yet, but it's a cactus. Weirdly enough I did give up printing woodfill a year ago. But with the um2 hotend/1.75/0.6 nozzle and the feeder tension on 'just a little' I can even do retracts on long prints. Sooo happy!

I need to reverse the screw/nut on the slider block, fix the pulley on the Y axis then do your test. Been at the CNC machine the past few days so I haven't touched the printer

I am still having problems homing.

lools like I need to make this screw a few threads shorter

Why not replace them with a community design? I'm quite happy with the Twisterblocks.

LePaul wrote:I am still having problems homing.

lools like I need to make this screw a few threads shorter

Look at the picture from Titus

Dim3nsioneer wrote:Why not replace them with a community design? I'm quite happy with the Twisterblocks.

These are my favorite as well...
... but the original ones are probably the only ones that are not 'modular', so to replace them you need to take all rods out of the printer, so it is more than a 5 minutes job.
Also the Twisterblocks are for GT2 belts (LePaul is still on MXL). Before I moved to GT2 I used Mooncatus bananas blocks...

The twisterblocks are for both GT2 and MXL.
They were initially designed for MXL and then a mod for GT2 was later released by Chop.
Source: I know this cause I asked directly to Chop to release the mod for GT2

Indeed. I did my beyond slideblocks for mxl & gt2 based on chopmeister design.

Ooops -- I stand corrected. I went to twister when i moved to GT2 and didn't realize/remember there was an MXL version...

BTW just finished a print:


Again, nothing spectacular, but the bridging (at mid-print) is very good and to top parts with the fans at full power show no sign of overheating.
Filament is Blueish White PLA from Ultimaker which sometimes gives me headaches...