Fan shroud upgrade

[Neotko]

How do I wire this up now?

Fan one pos & neg to Postive lead
Fan two pos & neg to Negative lead ?

[Titus]

Nop,

Fan1 Positive to positive UM,
Fan1 negative to positive Fan2 =Fan2 positive to Fan1 negative
Fan2 negative to UM negative.

Left is series(voltage is split, current is the same)
Right is parallel(voltage is the same, current is different)

[LePaul]

Yes of course. Thanks for that!

I have to check the Ulticontroller for the option Amadee mentioned

[Amedee]

I'll check the slow fan option in firmware first

I did get that version from your site

This one (From the experimental branch)

Slow fan

[LePaul]

You're the best. I'll try that first. If the same results , change the wiring


(At the gym now and it's so nice outside, I'm going to go ride the motorcycle!)

[Amedee]

Running my first dual-fan print...

The nice thing is that when the fan kicked in, the temperature did not move at all!

Temp

[LePaul]

Were you in parallel or series?

[Amedee]

Parallel, but with 24v fans...

And this is on my UMO+, not the UMO

[Neotko]

The check how impacts on the hotend get the z near at 2mm. It will move. With the new design based on my um2 fancap it will move much less, I get a 2-3 seconds of 3-4C degress lost on um2.

Ofc I mean when hitting fullfan from 0 to 255 at 2mm. And um2hotend ises 35W so umo+ should compensate faster.

[Amedee]

It was 50% fan at the second layer

And here is the verdict:

First print

Far from perfect, but quite good for a first try.

It is nGen, 240°C, 0.15mm layers.

The layer bonding is excellent, I can reduce a bit the temperature, that will improve the print.
Also this is an E3D nozzle with many print hours (including a bit of XT-CF).

The nGen shroud survived the first print, so that seems to be good as well.

For the fans I eventually used countersunk screws, that way I am sure It won't touch anything (I know the ISO screws would be OK as well, but I was out of stock )

First print

[Neotko]

Looks great. I did my um2 fancap on ngen and I must say I hate the filament. It prints ok but it's like it has way too much flow (at 240C too), first time I get string on a print but ofc like any filament it need's tuning on the settings. Apart of that I dislike the filament because it can't be filled since it goes weird like abs but on the good side it can be cut with an exacto like if it was butter. Anyway used my free 10metter sample on the fancap and I won't be buying more of that stuff anytime soon. I'm more interested on the PLA-Tec filaments that go up to 120C and they are really 100% eco friendly. I got a weird asma attack when filing the ngen so my lungs didn't like the ngen too, I got to use a mask to finish the cleaning...

[Neotko]

One more thing... I see your nozzle touches the hotend. I really don't know what's the best, but e3d recommends that the nozzle doesn't touch their hotend, I really really have no idea what's best. But On my 2 umo+ hotend I got better print quality (less blobs on retracts) when the screw part it's the one that limits how further the barrel goes in, like the hotend tutorial that was on wiki..

Holy shit they took out the wiki ultimaker?... that sucks... well..

What I mean it's. The barrel 'screw' part should be inside the hotend and not outside (you have 1-2mm of screw part of the barrel out). The ultimaker wiki did explain that to assemble it it should be just to the screw mark. Ofc that assembly it's for the umo nozzle that would make a perfect fit. But also, I think that they did their job when designing that part and the distance from peek to hotend should stay the same. At least on my test if I get that much part out I got more pressure changes and blobs on retracts, also much more 'drip'. After adjusting the distance everything went better and also that's why you need the washers to move down the fancap so it doesn't touch the hotend. I know every printer owner has it's tricks, but on this I'm almost 99% sure.

[Neotko]

This it's what I mean. Thank god for the webarchive to travel trough website time

[LePaul]

The selection of metric screws here is slim and I need a flat head screw

I am thinking if widening the holes for an 8-32 size thread...I can't recall what size tap drill #29 is...time to dig out the reading glasses and try to read the fine print on drill bits (a sure sign of old age)

[Amedee]

Re the nGen, I am not fully convinced either. You need to print it relatively hot to get a good layer adhesion, but then you get easily stringing.
It is probably the matter of finding the sweet spot, but it is not a 'wide spectrum' filament as they advertise.
I really like their PLA, but I am not found of their other products.
I bough these spools of nGen because I wanted their RAL greys, and they were not available in regular PLA.

Re. the nozzle, the UMO+ assembly manual says:

UMO+

But I agree with you, it is better to have the brass pipe deeper in the block. I did that on my UMO, but I haven't change it on my UMO+, I'll do it when I get the ruby nozzle.

And yes, the Wiki is gone I saw that a couple of weeks ago. It is a pity since there was good info there, even if it was old -- good that there are some archives.