3D Printing Forum

Hello everyone,

My current problem is finding the original firmware for my board after attempting a botched upgrade to my Z-axis screws and hot end upgrade (mainly the screws).

Background on how I got here: for around 6-8 months in 2016 I ran my printer without any major hardware modifications; mostly it was smaller hardware that were changed here and there. After researching more into hot ends and printing accuracy - along with aging hardware on the printer itself - I wanted to expand my material range with a E3D v6 upgrade and the smoother threaded guide rods for the Z-axis. In the time I was trying to test the screw upgrade, the code I uploaded for the modified screw travel ended up not working and the LCD stopped showing any sign of life - aka no characters showing. I've tried to upload a normal Marlin code, but that still did not work.

Jumping forward to today,I have assembled the old Z screws back into place. I have looked again to see if the CD that came with the printer had the original coding (which did not....) and then tried several other codes for the Hictop from this forum, but alas this printer is still stuck in a coma. During this attempt, the LCD screen would turn on the backlight, but no characters would show. After a few more seconds, the LCD would flash on and off several times before completely going dark; no rotary sound either when I try to use the display navigation. I also swapped the cables but didn't fix it. Only recently did I shoot a request to the HIC email for the original code but so far have not received a response.

Below is a small clip of the LCD screen turning on and off:
https://youtu.be/rA9kzQUa99w

Below are the links I have tried several codes to get mines to work but ended up not doing anything better:

At this point I am at the end of my best abilities to get my 3DP-08 working. Are there any suggestions that I might be able to go by to get this thing up and running again?

Below are some pictures of the Motors, new hot end, LCD, and controller board:

Try this link: https://www.hic3dprinter.com/pages/firmware. It shows the firmware for the 3DP08-3DP11. Not sure if it works with the Z screws your kit came with though (at one point, they switched everything to leadscrews apparently).

1. Make sure you have the LCD hooked up properly.
2. The LCD isn't critical for the function. Plug into a PC to see if you can connect and use slicing software to see if you still have motor controls (jogging, homing, etc.)
3. Your LCD and/or controller may be bad. Replace them.

GrueMaster wrote: ↑June 22nd, 2017, 9:46 am Try this link: https://www.hic3dprinter.com/pages/firmware. It shows the firmware for the 3DP08-3DP11. Not sure if it works with the Z screws your kit came with though (at one point, they switched everything to leadscrews apparently).

Thank GrueMaster, that code worked, though it was just to test the screen. I will attempt to see how fast it moves, hopefully it's preset with the new lead screw code since that was my intentions from the beginning.

You just need to modify the steps definition. Lead screws should be ~398.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 398, 94.496214 }

Do not know what numbers you will be using so Here is a RepRap Prusa i3 Caculator
Look see.

http://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/#stepspermmbelt

shocksofmighty wrote: ↑June 23rd, 2017, 8:41 am You just need to modify the steps definition. Lead screws should be ~398.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 398, 94.496214 }

Would this be in the config file? If so, it would be difficult to translate that in the HEX file provided from Hic's website. I'm under the assumption that only ".h" and ".cpp" files can be edited in a coding program for the printer files. HEX is a different story. (I have a small background in coding from school but more studied electrical).

@Roberts_Clif I remember that site from an Instructables. Was actually using that to make the translation to the lead screw numbers haha.

He was referring to if you are building your own firmware from the latest Marlin release. The hex file from Hictop will have the correct values, assuming you have the stock configuration.

shocksofmighty wrote: ↑June 23rd, 2017, 8:41 am You just need to modify the steps definition. Lead screws should be ~398.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 398, 94.496214 }

Thanks for your participation in this site.
I've seen a lot of discussion of various codings, but I have no idea where to put them. For instance, when people talk about using/modifying the config file: where is this and how do I open it. Or, where would I put #define DEFAULT...
There is a lot of what looks like great information on this site, but it all starts at a point well past my competence. I don't know how to get from "I'm following the directions" to "I'm modifying the code."
My current problem is that I need to switch the extruder ports but don't know how to change the software to accomplish this. Any ideas?

hictop once gave me a hex file when i installed the auto bed leveling sensor... it was junk, i will never use one of their files again.

i compile my own Marlin now every time they have an update. Just today i updated to 1.1.4
i think u should flash your own... theres about 20-30 fields you an change to the source to make it work...
ill be happy to help, send me a PM so we can coordinate

Chaco wrote: ↑July 17th, 2017, 10:54 pmi compile my own Marlin now every time they have an update. Just today i updated to 1.1.4
i think u should flash your own... theres about 20-30 fields you an change to the source to make it work...
ill be happy to help, send me a PM so we can coordinate

I've been scouring the internet looking for firmware source for my 3DP-03 and stumbled on this thread. I too would like to compile my own Marlin firmware from source but, from what I've read, there are some changes that need to be made to get it to work correctly for my printer but I'm unsure of what those changes are.

I just registered so unfortunately I can not PM you @Chaco but would like any help you would consider giving me

It appears that the 3DP03-3DP11 firmware is what you are looking for.

Look at this sub-forum read all posts as the knowledge you obtain will come in handy to complete the firmware upgrade .
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=189

Pay special attention to shocksofmighty post this is the first firmware I started using. Marlin is mostly setup for your 3D Printer here so download it, only a few changes will be needed to configure it for you. you will also need to download a compiler to compile the firmware before you can use it. download and go begin with the tutorials to become familiar with the compiler.https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

When finished post, we will help you with the changes you may need to make. And what is needed to get the firmware compiled and into your 3D Printer.

@Roberts_Clif thanks! Fortunately for me, Arduino is what got me into 3D printing (tired of buying printed enclosures/etc from various vendors like Shapeways) so I'm all set up on that end. I also used to do a lot of C/C++ programming as a hobby years ago so I have that covered too -- it's just the printer-specific settings in the config file that I'm unsure about.

I've downloaded the source you linked and extracted it but I'm leaving for a bit with the wife and kid to go to a pierogi festival. Hopefully later tonight I can dive into this further. Thanks for your assistance thus far!

My hat's off to you....anytime I have tried to learn C, I become totally ADHD...not an easy language to learn!

ieatacid wrote: ↑August 12th, 2017, 5:12 pm I've downloaded the source you linked and extracted it but I'm leaving for a bit with the wife and kid to go to a pierogi festival. Hopefully later tonight I can dive into this further. Thanks for your assistance thus far!

Then this will be a simple walk in the Park.