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Posts: 422
Joined: March 15th, 2017, 8:46 pm
Location: Oregon
3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S

Re: DOH!

Post by GrueMaster » April 30th, 2017, 6:00 pm

Yes, I agree. I now have a set of tips, tubes, and blocks. All assembled and ready to do damage. I also have a 5 pack of thermistors and a spare heater (it was part of a complete hot-end replacement set). I now have a spare board (maybe two if they don't ask me to return the one under warranty - which I can easily fix at work). I also have a spare power supply and blower fan.

My next big ticket will be a spare printer. One to mod as I assemble it. Thinking E3D extruder (dual???), bowden configuration, etc. That will probably happen in July. Then it is time to plan building my own custom large printer. I have a lot of 1in x1in x various lengths (36in max) of extruded aluminum (same style as the aluminum frame Hictops) and a large tote of hardware to go with them. Imagine a print area of 30in^3 (762mm^3)! :shock:

I plan on buying quality components for that one, and customizing what I need.

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Posts: 310
Joined: February 15th, 2016, 2:48 am
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
3D Printer(s): UMO

Re: DOH!

Post by jonnybischof » May 30th, 2017, 3:09 am

That switch may be a bit better than the last one, but still the wrong part to put there.
I would suggest leaving this switch always on and using a switchable AC mains socket or extension cord to turn the power on or off. I've been doing that with my UMO all the time (it has the same crappy switch which sparked on me right the first time I actuated it).
Best regards,

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