Heater block replacement time?

[LePaul]

Well I found this nice dis-assembly and assembly video for the UM2 printhead

So for my UM2 print head to go 2+, the coupler, spacer and Olsson Block seem to be the pieces to replace. I wonder if the heater and probe should go, too?



I've asked Ultimaker (Sander) about the electronics side, since I have a UMO with heated bed. (I know this is easier with a UMO+ since that's a better electronics board.)

[Izzy]

These guys are based about 40 minutes away from me and are very helpful,

[LePaul]

I really like the videos they make.

[Meduza]

The most important parts is as you say the TFM Coupler, the Rigid Spacer and the Olsson Block. It is a good idea to upgrade the fan shroud also, either to the 2+ one or by printing for example Labern's fan shroud, since that gives you much better part cooling.

You don't really have to change the PT100 and the heater, but the 35W heater is a nice upgrade if you are printing with 0.8mm nozzle and/or high-temp plastics and wants to push the speed a bit, and the PT100 are a little bit more accurate.

[LePaul]

Yes, I agree the bigger heater and new shrouds should be ordered

I am still stuck on the electronics side.

[LePaul]

I'd be curious what steps Johan went through with his printer

Did he keep the rods or replace?

You earlier commented on a regulator being installed, that's all? Sounds too easy! So not on the actually motherboard but the heated bed PCB?

What's a source for those belts and pulleys? (USA)

I'm trying to source the TFM Coupler, Rigid Spacer and Olsson Block. I would also want the PT100 (35W)

What are your thoughts on the I2K insulator? Needed? Not?

[nilrog]

I updated everything in my UM2 head except for the temp sensor. But I skipped the i2k for now as I have read mixed reviews of the benefits vs troubles.

Belts and pulleys, and new 8mm bearings I bought from Robotdigg. The quality looked good, price and shipping ok, an so far they appear to be of a lot higher quality than the stock Z-bearings

[LePaul]

I just chatted with Erin @Fabrc8 Most UM2+ parts are only available as a whole kit. So no improved fan shroud separately.

So...it might be cheaper to just get the UM2+ Extruder upgrade kit which would include everything. New feeder, rods, etc

[Izzy]

I need to adjust my I2K insulator, just open out the bore a bit as I get a small bulge on the end of the filament at the final retraction that won't re-enter on the next print.
I adjust my previous one and it solved the problem.

[LePaul]

Well I replaced the heater block, heater, thermocouple and TFT last night.

The old heater block was pretty well worn, very gummed over and ready to be replaced. I had spare parts (dual extruder option kit) and decided to stick to stock parts. I couldn't remove the heater or thermocouple...the screw just wouldn't budge despite heating it up and trying to twist like crazy on the M3 10 screw

I was really puzzled on how to feed the wires out the top of the print head but after re-reading how I had assembled it, removing the top piece made life a lot easier!

I was really careful on the re-assembly and notice there's a angle/slant between the aluminum and wood piece. Despite carefully threading in the 4 rods, it's still there but doesn't seem to affect how things are working.

One nice thing about this process was re-aligning the print head so that the wires are out the back and the wiring is not straining that position.

First test print came out pretty nice

[LePaul]

The general consensus on the old UM2 printhead was not to bother upgrading it.

Further, since the UMO board lacks what the UMO+ board offers, spending time and money upgrading that wouldn't be a good idea.

I'm certain it can be done by some more advanced users! But for me, I just want a stable and reliable printer right now