Heater block replacement time?

[LePaul]

Well I have an impressively hooped up nozzle and heater block. The coupler is actually okay

But since I put the brass pipe and nozzle on too snug last year, I figured a fix might be needed. I have spare parts since I originally bought the dual extruder kit

I'm just wondering if it might be time for some upgrades? I can't remove the screw from the heater block. But I do have a replacement thermo pack (both wires/heater/sensor)

I also have the UM2 print head from the Upgrade sitting here. But that upgrade would require an expensive motherboard upgrade.

Here's where I left it. . You can see my shroud is pretty well cooked too!

Suggestions to tweak this thing again?

[Meduza]

You do not require a motherboard upgrade to use the UM2 head, just a Pt100 amplifier, replacing the linear regulator on board with a switching one, and a small rewire to feed the controller board with 24V, so about 25$ or so.

http://e3d-online.com/PT100-Amplifier-Board

I have done this mod, it works great

[LePaul]

Really?

So how much work would it take to make the UM2 print head work in this thing?

[Neotko]

You do not require a motherboard upgrade to use the UM2 head, just a Pt100 amplifier, replacing the linear regulator on board with a switching one, and a small rewire to feed the controller board with 24V, so about 25$ or so.

http://e3d-online.com/PT100-Amplifier-Board

I have done this mod, it works great

Really? That's actually doable? Wow you never say that.. in the past... nice news!

[LePaul]

I know Neo has a documented method to upgrade a UMO+ with the UM2+ extruder

Is there anything like that for taking a UMO (non plus) into a UM2 print head?

[Neotko]

Well, the thing is that you would want to change the 19v to 24v on the board. The rest of the installation is pretty straight forward.

viewtopic.php?t=439#p6617

To do the 19 to 24v part, I think there's a youtube guy that did that long ago... Searching...

Is one of the first videos I saw 2 years ago when checking stuff while deciding what printer to buy

[LePaul]

Regulator and PT100 Amplifier.... what would be a good source for a replacement power supply? An Ultimaker UMO+ or UM2 PS?

He mentions re-tuning stepper motors?

[Neotko]

Remember this is a 2 year old video. I would just contact him, I did long ago and he is really friendly. Anyhow if you see his new videos he uses a crossflow fan, a e3d hotend and not the standard umo bed kit. He has do a PimpByUMO route =)

[Meduza]

@LePaul, it looks to me like you have the heated bed upgrade kit, if so, then you already have the 24V UM2 power supply, you just have to bypass the regulator on the extra pcb that regulates it down to 19(?)V, and add replace the motherboard regulator with the RECOM switched regulator as the one used in the above video.

Then you can just replace the printhead and add the PT100 amplifier (the circuit is actually based of the circuit on the Ultimainboard 2), and choose the right settings in firmware.

And @Neotko, yes it is very doable, @johan's UMO is actually running that exact setup

[LePaul]

Yes, I do have the heated build plate, good point!

Hmm, I'm not sure how I'd bypass the regulator on the HB pcb

[LePaul]

More questions....

1) Replace feeder? Keep?

2) What changes needed to mount the UM2 print head? Re-use rods? What about slider blocks?

[Meduza]

Only change needed is to rotate the two lower black plastic pieces of the head by 90 degrees, and swap the top piece for this printed piece:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-p ... op-for-umo

If you want to upgrade it further, look at @Neotko's "Beyond Sliderblocks", which allows you to use the longer UM2 shafts and gain some print volume, it is some more work to do it tough.

If you go all-in and change the sliderblocks, you should also do the switch to GT2 pulleys and belts and throw those MXL belts out.

Replacing the feeder... not strictly necessarily, but if you want to upgrade it, i would suggest to use @Neotko's FatIRobertI feeder and mount it on my UMO feeder mount, or a Bondtech QR. Or if both those options are too complicated or expensive, even a E3D titan would be a upgrade.

[LePaul]

Pulleys and belt is a good idea!

A quieter feeder is nice too.

Bigger volume? Hmmm. Hadn't thought of that possibility!

[Neotko]

For the bigger volume you would need to build your own firmware to disable some endstops and make it work like a um2. Not easy, but doable.

Also you would need to drill some holes to set the new endstop positions.

[LePaul]

Yeah let's not get Paul deep into something he can't find his way out of LOL