3D Printing Forum

I never got the levelling process under my skin !

I've seen a LOT of videos on the topic levelling but with varying validity.

I dont think I've ever seen a video where the porpose of the 'HOME' key in the levelling software is explaned or even used !

I have a CR10s with Timy Machines software installed and I don't think the exact versions have any meaning here - the HOME key exist in all versions.

I'm confused on what the function of the HOME key is - if it's a:

1) SETTING of the home position of the extruding point (where the melted plastic comes out) WHEN and WHAT is this setting used for ?
2) command to the printer to GO TO the HOME-position - when or how is the HOME-position defined ?

I tend to think it's a command to GOTO the HOME-position but when I press it the extruding point is "to the center of the bed and FORCED DOWN nearly through the BED-cover - in fact it's leaving s deep hole though the cover !
To me THIS behavior seems like the printer is MISSING the SETTING of the HOME-position !

Please don't link to videos on leveling - I think I've seen them all - instead EXPLAIN then the HOME-key is used for ?

Keld from Denmark
A fairy tale country in
the north of the EU

Home key is supposed to return the print head (and sometimes the bed) to a predefined origin point (0,0,0) for each axis (X, Y, and Z)

I have had some slicers change what the 3D Printer thought this home default location was.
And had to reset to factory defaults to correctly restore this location then to set my Z offset this to set true origin point (X, Y, and Z).

Else could hit the bed without correct Z offset settings.

Now my firmware has a Z Offset adjustment making this a simple task.

THX for your answer !

I have a CR10s Pro V2 and I have Firmware from TinyMachines DW7.4.6 and an BLTouch.
It had kind of worked 'good enough' bur now the filament is leaking all over the heat block so I have got a new hot end NEARLY same form factor - it is about 5mm shorter.
So instead of having to move the BLTouch I think I'll have to make a little bracket so the tip of the extruder is at the same Z-levet +/- 1 mm.

I fear for the levelling process - right now it seems like I CAN'T turn the auto-levelling ON ... it flips OFF right after I finish pressing - why ?

I have had problems that when the hot-end leaks, it is also loose on my 3D Printer, because of being loose it is never correctly homes.
This tells me, rebuild the hot-end, though my hot-end is different than yours.


I upgraded my firmware using Marlins PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD and BABYSTEPPING

Got the same printer, upgraded to a Slice Engineering hotend on mine

LePaul wrote: ↑July 28th, 2025, 9:50 pm Got the same printer, upgraded to a Slice Engineering hotend on mine

I see no relation to my original posting

Sorry, its a Tiny Machines CR-10S Pro v2 firmware and thought the upgrade path might be of interest

LePaul wrote: ↑July 30th, 2025, 8:44 am Sorry, its a Tiny Machines CR-10S Pro v2 firmware and thought the upgrade path might be of interest

I already have this upgrade, but having problems getting this levelling process under my skin - and nearly ALL the videos I've seen DO NOT explain the process i details - that's the problem.

But I have found one now having the same frustation as I have with the videos - and he made a very good video going through the process - so I'll study that some more to get the understanding.

It certainly is tough to level - I have a Wham Bam bed on mine and every time I go through the auto level process - that screen that shows all the measurements - I always windup with one or two showing 0.3 or so, while the rest are ideal

I also used Octoprint and the Bed Analyzer which at least shows me a graphic of where the high and low spots are. I wound up using a small piece of paper folded to size to make it very close to level

Have you used this?

LePaul wrote: ↑July 30th, 2025, 10:48 am Have you used this?

Yeah ... and a lot of others too