3D Printing Forum

Just got my printer and when sending to home to level the bed the gap in between the nozzle and bed is never the same. This makes it impossible to get the bed level or get good prints. I replaced the bed springs with silicone stand off's so not a bed level issue. I shimmed the Z stepper to stop binding issue at about 3 inch's above the Z stepper motor, so not a binding issue.

I don't have solid evidence of this, but I think all the weight on the X rail doesn't help, any kind of movement makes the X rail sink when the steppers are released.

Any help given to fix this issue is greatly appreciated.

I had this problem on my Hictop 3D Printer determined that the Lead screws having a 8mm drop per turn was most of my problem.
An until I changed I needed to turn on 3D Printer level bed and then 3D Print most days.

Until I changed my lead screws with a TR8-2mm pitch single start lead screw.
As any vibration could cause the bed leveling to be off.

Changing the lead-screws requires changing the Z-Step parameters, this change can be done locally or re-flashing most firmware.
I had to change from 400 steps per mm to 1600 steps per mm with a more adjustment I settled with 1594 steps per mm

These Ender 3 Pro's come with a single Z stepper set up. So for 32 dollars I will either make it twice as worse or fix it easily with a upgrade duel Z axes set up. I've read both good and bad about doing this, I'll find out later today. The thing that swayed me to go this method 1st is the nut that the lead screw rides in has no slop to speak of even though the lash can be adjusted by shimming either of the screws holding it to the mount.

I made enough of a adjustment to stop the creeping and it curbed the inconsistent homing just a little, it's always to the tight or less gap now. So hopefully if I throw more power at it and free the lead lash back to zero it will home properly.

Questions about tweaking the code. If done locally will it need done every time I turn the printer off then on again? If you're making adjustments through code are you using HxD hex editor?

Thanks for the help. It seems strange that Creality bost about selling 800k of these units and still the lack of mechanical trouble shooting available makes me shake my head. They've been out for 2 years now I read somewhere. What? Is 2 years not enough time for a shake down???

When you adjust the Z-Step, there is a Store or Save settings option this will give illusion permanent memory.
If you ever hit the load settings or initialize factory defaults the settings will again need to be set and saved.
I kept a log book of my changed parameters of settings just in case of an accidental erasure.

Using a terminal program in Marlin there is a command to read the parameters set this can be copied and printed.
So basically the setting should stay so long as you do not over write these settings.


Most 3D Printer users have found this did not bother them or they never turn there 3D Printers off.
I turn only turn my 3D Printers when i am home an close enough too see, hear an watch closely what my 3D Printers do.
I am also an individual who whats to learn as much as possible.
When I what to 3D Print did not want to re-level bed every time, and guess what every ones 3D Printer does not act up like mine
Some had better auto leveling firmware making the exchange of hardware unnecessary.

I purchased three Hictop 3D Printers and all required exchanging the lead screws to work correctly to suit myself.
The previous owners could not get them to print correctly, Oh should have mentioned that all of my 3D Printers were used.

I stated previously my desire to learn every thing about 3D Printing this included troubleshooting and programming.
So started with used Printers my electrical mechanical background, desire to learn to be the best route.

Now wish had more time to actually play with my hobby and finish my 1st home brew CoreXY and print with the others.

You may need to adjust your stepper motor Vref, this is the stepper motor current adjustments.
The stepper motor current adjustment or V-Ref setting, is something that most 3D Printer users have had to learn.

What you need to know before making this adjustment is DO NOT USE a metal adjustment tool.
Be careful with your voltmeter leads as not the short the V-Ref, as this will damage your stepper motor drivers.
Here is a non-conductive tool kit

You may also be having problems with your Proximity sensor as you stated when leveling your bed,
it never seems to auto adjust the same.
This can be also tested by measuring voltage on your controller.
My 3D Printer was sold with underrated wires and the voltage did not come up to voltage required to operate.

After replacing power supply wires to my controller the voltage returned to the correct levels on controller an problem was solved.

Thanks for the information, can be a double edge sward through. Set the voltage to low will also overheat the motor. I'm going to get a inferred thermometer, I've always wanted one anyway.

I got the duel Z stepper set up installed squared everything up and that fixed the homing issue. Going to install a timing belt to keep the Z steppers in sync when they get released and I think I'll be doing all right.

Side note, the version Cura I was using wasn't slicing my model correctly, switched to Creality Pint and 1st print no problems.

That is so correct every thing seems to be a double edge sword.
My 3D Printers had so many problems, direct form the factory.
Undersize wiring causing most of the problems. Cheap proximity sensors making leveling next to impossible.
Cheap all thread lead-screws which made artifacts on all models, the only plus was I learned how to fix all these problems.
Most are posted here on 3D Printing Forum for your learning experiences.
Though we answer your questions to the best our knowledge, as you may know failed prints can be caused by many different problems..


I have have my 3D Printers for over 5 years now have had the TR8-2 lead-screws.
Now can level my bed and will remain level until I mess-up an make it necessary for being re-leveled.

I very seldom use Cura as Prusa Slicer out preforms most free slicers.