Assembly Manual: UM2+ Kit upgrade for UMO+

[Neotko]

I just finished this assembly manual. Sooo sweeet!

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-u ... bly-manual

[Meduza]

@Neotko: Could you estimate how much you could shrink the cable slot and still fit the cables?

I did put the cable ties in before i mounted the feeder, then it works this way

[Neotko]

That makes sense indeed, I didn't think it trough.

Sure they can get very thin and since it has snakeskin the decompression should already act as a grap. Or maybe just a 'texture' to grab on. I'll try to get the caliper when I get some time. Anyhow I must say that it isn't a issue, they stay there, I didn't had today any weird noises from the cable moving or anything like that.

Anyhow I took out the feeder quite fast, I don't like the grip force for 1.75mm and the diamond shaped bites a bit too hard for this size. I will just install my geared version of your gear addon aince um2 hotend really seems to need more force than umo+.

[Neotko]

Now that I think of...

If you put the zip when assembling the motor to the adapter it can be troublesome since you need to work with that cables to install them.

Also, ofc, you could do the motor/adapter assembly after disconnecting all and pluging the new hotend, but also it would mean that you need to stop doing one think and going to prepare the stuff to use...

I don't know. I think the t makes some sense the order I did when you set all to be ready to install/uninstall all you might want to have the feeder on the adapter but for that the adapter can't be also gripping the new hotend cables.

The cables can go as low as 6mm dia aprox. Let's say 8mm to be sure. Maybe a 'tunnel' that goes from one dia to other so the snakeskin grips? Also if the cable goes near the feeder and not the motor, the adapter already blocks any futher movement. So maybe just an upper open circle near the top so you can hang the cable, without extra grip, might suffice? I have it that way right now and ao far so good. Also to avoid any possibility of the cable touching the filament if there are two open semi circles or U one down and other on the upper side that would make a tunnel to avoid any chance of the cables getting near the filament.

[Meduza]

When i put in the zip ties i just put them in there before mounting the feeder, i do not close and tighten them, that is done later in the process.

But of course, it would be nice if it were easy to put them in later in the process...

[LePaul]

As I told Neotko....I should start accumulating the parts to give my printer a compete overhaul.
2+ Extruder upgrade kits are still back ordered everyplace i checked in the United States.
Then there's the electronics and determining what else I should replace (pulleys?)

[Neotko]

You might want to fix that shifting first. You already tested by marking the shafts/pulleys to see if that was the trouble?

Imakr once told me that x/y shift could be because the short belts could be loose. Anyway since I changed all to gt2 I never got that error again. Also it helps that china gt2 have two screws for each pulley, so it's very weird to have one slipping.

[LePaul]

I've adjusted that belt as far it it will go (good and tight)

Maybe I should replace that pulley since it only has one set screw. Would this one be a suitable replacement? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Timing ... Swv9hW4-9F)

[Neotko]

Well if you change the pulley to gt2, you need to change all the pulleys/belt, feeder (edit: ups I mean x/y motors) pulleys/belt included.

For gt2 read: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/1587 ... nt-results

But you have tools, cnc and all that. Maybe you can lathe a new screw hole on the pulley that's slipping.

[LePaul]

Don't have a lathe....and really don't want to deal with the mess of belts. Just want to replace that one annoying pulley If you spot a source, share please!

[Meduza]

The original pulleys are MXL: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MXL-20T-Gear-To ... h6mthqq4HQ

[Neotko]

I know that fabr8 sells the pulleys belts for umo/umo+. The model default umo/umo+ uses its MXL

Now that I think of. Yea better that on ebay, ultimaker mxl oulleys are quite bad btw

You don't really need a lathe since you only want to add a new screw to fix it tight. Just use a 2.5mm drill and then a m3 cap. Or the equivalent on inches. I did that once on a aluminium heater block to add a new screw. Just do it with some love and care.

Sorry I edited wrong post :O

[LePaul]

I couldn't find them on Fabrc8, that was my first stop

Neotko....metric drill bits...here?

Meduza/Neotko - What's the inner hole diameter for that pulley?

[Neotko]

5mm for motor pulley. 8mmfor x/y pulleys

[LePaul]

Okay....well this is he one for the Y motor...5mm is what I will order. Thanks for your help!