3D Printing Forum

Hello everybody,

I´ve spend a lot of time calibrating my Ender 3
(first version; connected to an octoprint-python3-server via USB/serial on macOS).

What I did so far:

- bed leveling to perfection
- check axes angles
- check extruder nozzle
- filament and feeder are okay

Benchy now works so far as seen in the pics. Only thing is the deck house pillars are unstable at these marked two points:




Within the pillars themselves are absolutely stable (see circles on Pic2). Seems to me as if the critical two points are exactly at the beginning and end of the slices where only these pillars are printed. So after the last slice where parts of the "bow is ending " an the before the deck houses roof slices come up.

I tried already to reduce the speed to 25mm/s (even travel speed) assuming that the PLA has no time to harden when the extruder arrives to early for its next slice as there only these pillars to print. But that does not go together with the fact that the pillars are stable within themselves.

Tried bed from 50-60 and extruder temps from 195 to 210 °C.

I really have no Idea why ONLY these to deckhouse transition layers are affected...

:///

Any help would be really appreciated!


THANK YOU ALL!



Gramais

Most of your problems can be solved by simply installing the newest version of Prusaslicer.

Then using the menu install the Proper configuration profiles.

Click on Configuration
select Configuration Wizard
Select Other Vendors
check box Creality
Select Creality FFF
Select Your Ender 3 Printer and upload.

Select a few Filaments to upload.

Load model slice and print!!!

Thank you very much for your reply!

I used Cura slicer to slice benchys STL-File and selected the Ender3 Profile: What is the reason for using Prusaslicer - has it a better Ender-Profile?

I have used many Slicers all of which allowed me to 3D Print excellent 3D Models.

I have 3D Printed my best using Prusaslicer including a few multi-colored models.
Prusaslicer has many options that in my opinion make my 1st choice, there is no other reason I suggested using it.

We talk an post about what is most familiar, I have 3D Printed more using Prusaslicer than Cura thus my post for Prusaslicer.

Great, thank you Clif, for your help and idea changing the slicer - I’ll give it a try tonight and tell you tomorrow!

You are welcome!!!

I have my updated Ender 3 Cura profiles that are being used for my Hictop 3DP11/12 Prusa i3 Compatible 3D Printers.
AN
I have my Hictop 3DP11/12 Prusa i3 Compatible Printer using the Prusaslicer modified Ender 3 profile.

My profiles setup for 270mm X 220mm hot bed. Soon to be setup for my Home brew CoreXY woth 300mm X 300mm hotbed.