3D Printing Forum

I'm seeing a few for sale ads on UM2's here and there....wondering if it is worth getting one of those cheap and purchase the upgrade kit....or hold out and just go brand new?

If old+um2plus equals less than new old um2, I would get my hands dirty. You have more than enough knowhow and you will also learn a lot in the process of the new machine.

You would get a older revision, so probably you would not have the motherboard that can turn off the back fan when idle, wich is quite annoying, but other than that you cant go wrong with upgrading a older machine if it is cheaper

I would wait for a mod to install UM2+ on a UMO+. I'm trying to make it without having the parts and I hope this week I'll have most of the basic stuff designed, unless

Meduza wrote:Meduza

beats me to it (since he has all the machines and can design it in a blink of an eye.

I would go UMO+ + UM2+ expansion pack. Price it's like a UM2+ but you should save 300-400 or something alike? I don't know the prices in USA. Ofc you need to mod, install, adjust time time time. UM2+ assembled must be a dream to just open it and print

I would love the ability to unpack something and just print, knowing things are good from the get go. I would like to have that level of bliss for once ha ha

I have so much printing to do to get a BB-8 build rolling...and need some printers lol

I get the felling. It took me a lot of time to assemble my second umo+ (kit) and even more to finish my almost ultimaker. But I tried to make it the best posible with misumi shafts, better bearings and gt2 ofc. Now that I have them printing It was worth the effort, specially since now I can trully assemble/disassemble any part with my eyes closed. And since I changed the hotend to 1.75 and feeder, well I know every corner of my cute wood printers, and they print sooo nice. But one of the printers, the one I used to made the magnetic head changer it's printing worse than the others, so I really want to change that one to um2 hotend. I have all the basic stuff ordered, a real olsson from swordriff, ptfe, i2k, and I will savage most of the crappy china hotend I got. The first think you notice from umo hotend to um2 it's that it's so freaking small and the weight it's clearly less.

Anyhow back to topic. If you find a um2 that's cheap and you just get the um2+ pack, it might be a nice solution to save some cash and get decent quality. Your advantage it's that you already know how to align the whole machine without reading a manual.

@Neotko: Just since you keep talking about it
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-e ... nt-for-umo

It is a very quick and dirty design, so i cannot promise it works perfectly

I hate/love you

Anyway isn't better to keep the um2 kit distance to install it on the lower area? That's what I was gonna design.

It's all Sandervg fault! Too much writting and no modding makes a neotko sad

Umm yes that might give problems unless you don't clip the cables to the bowden (so shaky bowden). Pt100 116cm won't fit if the cable curvature if it's that high.

Ahrgg I need one to make the mod but I won't buy one till 2-3 months...

Btw Meduza, or anyone, has anyone tryed to make a pt100 cable extender? I have a bunch of molex cables to try and I readed a lot about it and everyone seems to agree that pt100 can have cable extensions with very minimal signal problems. Just wondering...

Install it on the lower area? You mean install it on the same place on the printer as on a UM2?

Then you would need to cut a hole in your UMO+ or mount it all on the outside where it would interfere with the spool... none of wich seems like particularly good alternatives...

I did not think about the cable lenghts tough... might have to rethink

And yes, i have soldered extensions to PT100 leads, no problem, it is just a resistor.

You could just extend the hook part of this mount to make it sit lower... but that might make it wobbly...

The UMO Bowden is only 35mm shorter than the UM2 bowden btw...

And @Neotko, if you want to continue working on it, here you go:
http://a360.co/1PnmiSl

Sure! Thanks meduza!

I was thing to install it outside but on the lower area.



And I wanted to make a small cable/bowden guide to snapit on the feeder lock.

Thanks for the pt100 info!

Nah been toying with it and I can't improve your design, and my idea while it works since the feeder doesn't pop from inside it might add some unwanted distance to the feeder. So nothing to do.

Nice clean design Meduza I knew you would do something XD

I would add a cable guide, to help pack the stuff near the wood structure, something like this, but better ofc

This it's my robert feeder holder. I never published it because, well, there's a few already.