New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Software and Firmware Discussion - related to source code, firmware updates, etc.
Shazam0527
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Shazam0527 » October 24th, 2018, 7:39 pm

And to correct something I said earlier, I got the 3dp-12 (auto leveling that I disabled as it didn't work well from day 1)

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Roberts_Clif
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Roberts_Clif » October 24th, 2018, 8:16 pm

Shazam0527 wrote:
October 24th, 2018, 7:39 pm
And to correct something I said earlier, I got the 3dp-12 (auto leveling that I disabled as it didn't work well from day 1)
I too Got rid of the SN04-N Proximity Sensor, but not because It did not work.
It was so long ago it is hard to remember what came first the chicken or the Egg.

I never ever worked with the original software as did not that the original source code. I purchased my 3D Printers used for around $200.00USD each. and was printing 48 hours after assembly. I only had the use of a Z-Axis end-stop on the Hictop 3DP11, so in the LCD menu there is a Z-Offset and I would adjust this number until the Nozzle was at the right height (changing the number from .5 - 1.8mm to get to that sweet spot)
Then I would print. If the bed was level on all four corners...

Then low and behold purchased the SN04-N proximity sensor replaced it with the end-stop switch. This work because they use the same logic.
but I could not auto-level the bed until I ran across Chip Lucks Firmware.
I purchased a spare controller when it arrived I flashed the firmware onto the spare controller until I had it working perfectly. Then I flashed to old controller to make it the spare controller.
Shazam0527 wrote:
October 24th, 2018, 7:39 pm
I tried your suggestions with 1.1.0-RC5 and got it to start printing, but it was way too high off the build plate. I'm not figuring out how to bring that starting level back down. I put the factory firmware back in, and the temps are still fluctuating wildly but it's printing. I'd prefer to figure out the height issue on 1.1 rc5 if you can assist. I greatly appreciate your time and effort. I wish I could grasp these concepts like you have.
I too had problems getting the nozzle to the correct height (That sweet Spot ) Until I found this Slide mount for the SN04-N I 3D Printed it and now I can adjust the nozzle to the correct height quickly.
The slide mount redesigned uses a Spring an a long screw with a thumb nut for adjusting the sensors heights.
I screw the long screw in from the bottom place the spring on the top install the slide mount over the screw and attach the thumb nut.
If you need pictures I will Have to disassemble it take the pictures of the assembly and post for you.

I do not have the SN04-N proximity sensor any more I use a TL-W3MC2 Low Profile Proximity Sensor.
Though I modified the Slide Mount to accommodate the new sensor
TL-W3M 3.jpg
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Shazam0527
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Shazam0527 » October 24th, 2018, 8:46 pm

I may have had an epiphany.. is the original HIctop 3dp-12 heat cartridge a 24v?

Shazam0527
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Shazam0527 » October 24th, 2018, 8:54 pm

Here's what I have done with the original sensor :) It works to make it like a magnetic Z stop then I level the bed manually and it works perfectly.

Image

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Roberts_Clif
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Roberts_Clif » October 24th, 2018, 9:01 pm

OK!!!
When I do a bed leveling I have a 5X4 Grid on the build plate or 20 points, Thinking about changing it to a 6X5 grid or 30 points.

New Bi-linear Leveling Grid:
< ----- 0------ 1------ 2------ 3
< 0 -0.356 -0.059 -0.136 -0.213
< 1 -0.023 +0.054 -0.085 -0.240
< 2 +0.083 +0.053 -0.087 -0.250
< 3 +0.084 -0.025 -0.133 -0.258
< 4 -0.001 -0.170 -0.236 -0.311

Then I save these point to EEProm and recall them so I do not have to do a bed leveling for every print.

You cannot do a bed leveling where the Sensor is located you can only do a single point Z-Axis height adjustment.

The Twins
The Twins 2018-3.JPG
I designed the Controller Case with Fusion 360 Free and posted on this forum for FREE.
The LCD controller case was found on thingiverse.
Designed the Filament run-out Sensor, the Parts Cooling Duct and the Power Supplies Case Covers all post on the forum.
New TL-W3M Mount.jpg
Attachments
Red Case.jpg
Power Supply Case.jpg
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Roberts_Clif » October 25th, 2018, 5:52 am

My First 3D Printer came with a end-stop switch for the Z-Axis I added the SN04-N Proximity Sensor.
It had no automatic bed leveling, when I came across the Marlin 1.1.x with Automatic bed leveling I flashed the new firm.
Can not tell you how well the Original Hictop firmware worked never had it very long an what I had did not support auto bed leveling.
I had the SN04-N for almost 1 year before updating to the Omron TL-W3MC2, never had any problems with it over the Aluminum build plate.

Well back up a little: I did not like the position 65mm behind the X-Axis smooth rod sit was so far from the nozzle to get a accurate bed leveling.
So I purchased the Omron TL-W3MC2 to get the Sensor within 15mm of the Nozzle, however I changed the design to 25mm directly behind the nozzle.

My knowledge is available for you to utilize, along with all the other forums users that have expertise on setting up the 3DP11 firmware.
MY google Drive has many versions of Marlin 1.1.X that I have modified for individual users with Hictops 3D Printers to flash ready to use.
Helping them helps me learn at an accelerated pace by learning how to fix problems that could occur my 3D Printers before they exists.
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Shazam0527
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Shazam0527 » October 25th, 2018, 5:28 pm

Yeah I know, I'm using it as a traditional 1 point z endstop. I never liked the auto adjust. I did it this way so I could level the bed manually at each corner using the thumb screws on the bed. It works perfectly.

Did you see my question about an epiphany I had? Is it possible that my old heater cartridge was a 24v and this new one being a 12v is the reason it skyrockets up in heat and then overshoots?

Also, I would love to try out one of your setups if you'll allow me :)

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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Roberts_Clif » October 25th, 2018, 7:15 pm

Yes I did and I though I had left a post regarding this very subject. OK!!! Lets try again.

Power = Current * Voltage : Voltage / Current = Resistance
40 watts / 12v = 3.34 amps : 12 volts / 3.34 amps= 3.59 Ohms
40 watts / 24v = 1.67 amps : 24 volts / 1.67 amps= 14.39 Ohms

If you have an multi-meter you can measure the resistance of the hot-end heater if it is 3.59 Ohms it is a 12 volt heater
If it measures 14.39 Ohms it is a 24 volt heater . SIMPLE!!!
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Shazam0527
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Shazam0527 » October 25th, 2018, 7:28 pm

Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter, but I'm going to buy 24v cartridges from Hictop this weekend.. Now I just have to figure out the settings to zero my home position. The center changed because I put in a e3d v6 hotend.

Shazam0527
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Shazam0527 » October 25th, 2018, 7:30 pm

This is what I did to mine -
Image

Image

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Roberts_Clif
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Roberts_Clif » October 25th, 2018, 8:51 pm

Noticed that your Z-Axis Smooth rods are still using the Thin Stepper motor brackets.
I found that without a better support the Z-Axis Smooth rods would pop out of the Thin Stepper motor brackets an ruin Prints.
I Added this Stepper Motor Smooth Rod Support Mount.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1576639

For A true rotation I placed a single wrap of electricians tape on the bottom of the threaded rods then pushed rod with tape into the coupler to better center them in the couplers.
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Shazam0527
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Shazam0527 » October 26th, 2018, 7:29 pm

Awesome, I'll definitely change those! Do you mind if I access your google drive? I'd love to check out what you did to the firmware. I'm "starting" to get the settings and I'd like to compare what I think some of the settings should be with what you have.

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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Roberts_Clif » October 26th, 2018, 7:54 pm

All firmware shown here is version Marlin 1.1.5
This is My Hictop 3DP11/3DP12 Modified for TL-W3MC2 Proximity Sensor + extended sensor Temp values
Marlin-Blue.Zip
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AmGFN ... T_yjX48ZwW

Marlin-Dual.Zip Modified Modified for Dual Extruder : Untested // Never Upgraded to Dual extruder as of this date
https://drive.google.com/open?id=14RnEF ... ZIxun9Q_FU

Marlin-J.zip Stock Hictop SN04-N Proximity Sensor + extended sensor Temp values
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Byzi1 ... jdVVUNGRlE
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Shazam0527
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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Shazam0527 » October 28th, 2018, 8:45 pm

So I've updated my firmware with settings I think mine should be. Are the X Y and Z on the screen supposed to alternate between X Y and Z and a ? mark?

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Re: New temp cartridge - won't stabilize long enough to start printing

Post by Roberts_Clif » October 29th, 2018, 7:07 am

Until you home the Printer It does not know what X Y and Z are, so it blink ? this reminds your to Home the Printer.
Stock Proximity sensor is in original location config settings with SN04-N
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 63 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -.5 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]

#define ABL_GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5
#define ABL_GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 6

#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 215
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 63
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 268

#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10

I also Use with my 3D Printer

configuration.h
#define INDIVIDUAL_AXIS_HOMING_MENU

configuration_adv.h
#define BABYSTEPPING

#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE

For Proximity Sensor
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE


For Filament Run out Switch I designed
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
pins_Ramps - For Run out Sensor I designed
// define X_MAX_PIN 2 for the filament run out sensor.
#define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 2 //Then I plug the Run out sensor into X-Max
I could never get the other connection to work with the run out sensor, so made my own.
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