3D Printing Forum

Well... That's what the nozzle did...

@Paul, no glue, otherwise you won't get it off

Blizz wrote:

Anders Olsson wrote:I have had several such ruby-popping incidents with previous prototypes by the way, even figured out a method of getting the ruby clean enough to reuse it

Completely useless reaction but...
I actually read "pooping incidents" and shortly thought that would be an awesome, yet painful skill

With a little one on the way he'll have plenty of that, soon!

Well I had to adjust the bed height screws pretty high since my limit switch can't go higher. And wow this stuff can be messy. 256c seems to be the magic temp to stick to the build plate

Here we go!

Noticing a few little blobs inside but otherwise, looking great

Good news! Printed nice

Bad news, my print is leaning backwards a bit

I wonder if the heated bed platform cover rubbing on the back wall is to blame?

View looking from right side. Here you see the angle

One last thing

Bottom looks great!

Well, a beautiful gem arrived in the post yesterday, and so I'm printing some PETG with it. Here are a couple of in-print progress shots taken with my super-high-tech phonecam

The one interesting thing is that I had to bump the hot end temperature up from 255C to 270C to get it to print without the extruder kicking back.

0.2mm layer height, 30mm/sec outers, 45mm/sec for the rest.

Just a note. Ruby nozzle shows 'everything' so if you see layers not touching, etcetcetc. It's your printer.

Long explanation. Ruby prints without blurring the filament and it doesn't hide the print/slice/hardware stuff. Inwas have to locate many problems on my 1.75 setup with it and now my printer work like a clockwork machine and print perfect with e3d/ruby. But e3d hides a looot of mistakes.

I need to clean off the tip, the carbon filament made the thing black!

I was very, very impressed at the layers (as you saw from my pictures above). I have a little bit of blotting on the top of my print where those bumps should be....not sure that was temp to high or not?

This is a section of a part that has a major overhang. So the radiating ribs are supports I added myself. Once this section was printed the supports come off with a gentle nudge. Not sure if the ruby nozzle improved the result or not, but the material really is all-round impressive.

Penknife included for scale

Why wouldn't you just print that rotated? no overhangs at all like that

That's only part of the model.

Actually, Anders, the Ruby nozzle, is that still partly a secret on UMforums? I haven't really read anything about it there, and I was about to post a picture, which I ended up not doing, just in case.
Also an update from my side.

I printed Right ultibot with the UMO+ fanshroud and the normal nozzle. The left is with the ruby nozzle, BUT I couldnt use the same shroud because the nozzle is smaller. So I did this(see last picture).


Clearly you can see that the lack of direct cooling effects overhangs. But on other places the surface quality is actually really nice!
I did notice however that under 201 degrees NO filament could be extruded, leaving it a pretty critical point if it were to be reached during a print.