3D Printing Forum

It's 4000 according to marlin github. Um2 uses 3000 by default.

I haven't changed anything there, it its the same as in the official firmware...

Ok, thanks! I thought I would inquire!

Perhaps would be great to experiment with different values?
Anyone has done so already?

With acceleration?

I got quite nice prints with 1500, almost no ringging, yerk at 18. But I stopped using that because when you need to print fast if this values are too low you get ups/downs on the feeder speed (because all movements occur at the same time and they must sync by hardware). That changes of speed are one of the first sources of blops (sudden changes of pressure). Also when doing the toplayer of a small area, you get errors (with low aceleration/yerk) because the changes of the feeder are more constant, that makes errors on toplayers and can break a perfectly flat toplayer making small holes (that was one of my personal obsessions to fully eradicate from my prints). With 3000/20 and printing at 50-70mm/s I don't get errors on toplayers, so I stopped playing with that. Ofc I get ringing, but that's a battle for other month.

What's the "yerk" setting you are referring to?

I took your advice and set it to 3000 and the ringing seems to be gone.

Feature request:

Do you think it would be possible to integrate in the Menu displayed on the printer a few additional settings to store in the rom?
This is currently available with e-steps but it'd be great to have it also for:

X_MAX_POS
X_MIN_POS
Y_MAX_POS
Y_MIN_POS
Z_MAX_POS
Z_MIN_POS

And also it would be great to have Cura's bed levelling wizard integrated as a menu function.

antiklesys wrote:Feature request:

And also it would be great to have Cura's bed levelling wizard integrated as a menu function.

You know that's a great idea...or just having the Ultimaker 2's calibration/bed leveling steps for the UMO/UMO+

LePaul wrote:

antiklesys wrote:Feature request:

And also it would be great to have Cura's bed levelling wizard integrated as a menu function.

You know that's a great idea...or just having the Ultimaker 2's calibration/bed leveling steps for the UMO/UMO+

By the way I don't mean to "integrate the gcode to heat up the head and draw three squares", but i think it would be enough to have just the part where the head positions itself in the three points and allows you to adjust the bed screws.
Then after each stop it could require a push of the controller knob to resume the script.

For the positions I need to check the code to see if these are variables or compile-time constants.
If they are variables it is not an issue, but if they are constants I am not touching them, the risk of introducing side-effects is too important.

Calibration should not be a big issue either (I never saw UM2 calibration, I just looked at the videos on their site )

Technically I would love to have a z setting like um2. Setting a offset by firmware could be just amazing, but it's impossible without moving the z endstop on umo+ On umo it could be totally doable by removing to top Z endstop and just using the offset like um2 does.

I say this because the Foehnsturm dual mod it's made for um2, and the way it operates it can't work with a umo+ top endstop. At least not perse. Also anyway tinkergnome won't do a version for umo/umo+ since he doesn't have one for that.

Anyway sorry back to subject. I think for umo it's more than doable but for umo+ it would need to actually change the z endstop physically.

Why is it different between UMO and UMO+?
My 2 printers are setup in the same way... What am I missing?

Where is the end stop on a UM2?

Umo has 2 z endstops (top and down) umo+ has it only in the top. And um2 has it on the bottom

Neotko wrote:Umo has 2 z endstops (top and down) umo+ has it only in the top.

Ah yes indeed, UMO+ is is using soft limits...

Amedee wrote:

Neotko wrote:Umo has 2 z endstops (top and down) umo+ has it only in the top.

Ah yes indeed, UMO+ is is using soft limits...

Better to rely on the top end-stop only for this to be compatible with both UMO and UMO+
I have an UMO but I actually don't use the lower Z endstop...and with the mods I have in place I couldn't even if I would.