3D Printing Forum

Or sell a kit?

As long as you have good bed adhesion you can also turn the printer upside down, that should also fix the issue

Izzy wrote:Hi Gudo, are you putting your buildplate stabliser on youmagine?

Hi Izzy !
oh! oops ! thanks for reminding me
I had planned to do so, all the files stl & step and "Bom threaded rod link thanks to Neotko" are ready, as I was very busy lately I zapped to share on Youmagine, do it now !

Cheers Gudo,
The link for Neotko's double ended screwed rod, looking at the photo it looks like it is normally threaded at both ends and not a LH thread and a RH thread.
I'm going to get some marine turnbuckles in stainless steel from eBay, cut of the forks and modify the ends, to either fit your rod ends or a slight redesign to suit some brackets.

Indeed they aren't. But is quite doable to fit a tension by pulling the arm assembled. Also you don't really need a loooy of force to make the bed more stable. Anyhow indeed the parts as Gudo designed it works much better to install it.

Izzy wrote:Cheers Gudo,
The link for Neotko's double ended screwed rod, looking at the photo it looks like it is normally threaded at both ends and not a LH thread and a RH thread.
I'm going to get some marine turnbuckles in stainless steel from eBay, cut of the forks and modify the ends, to either fit your rod ends or a slight redesign to suit some brackets.

Hi all
Hi Izzy !
About the bed stabilizer rod arms
for you and for to any other member, I can make the rods M6mmx150mm LH/RH end threads in aluminium 2017 (hight grade) for 10€ the pair, if you want pm me

That's waaay cheaper than the misumi custom shaft s.

Cheers for the offer Gudo,
I'm going to try the SS turn buckles first, and if I'm not happy with the result I'll get back to you

Neotko wrote:That's waaay cheaper than the misumi custom shaft s.

Mitsumi and co.... make a lot of money with small hardware, raw material costs almost nothing,
in this case the 6mm OD 2017 Aluminium rod costs 3€/m even by purchasing only one meter

Did some manual tests today by pushing the build plate up and down manually.

And I can confirm the behavior noted in this post. After you push the build plate up and begin pushing it down...it will be "stuck" after approx. 10 mm. And by "stuck" I mean that you can feel that there is an increase in resistance. Before that spot the bearings feels smooth...and if you continue pushing it gets better again.

So if there is an ever so slight play in the nut, which is almost impossible to avoid with one nut without tension, there will almost certainly be a gap in the print.

In my experience. A bad nut can work with perfect bearings and bad bearings can work with a perfect nut.

I'll do the nut mod from gudo this weekend, imo is the cheapest/best solution to both problems.

Yes, a "tight" nut will be able to better overcome the increased resistance...but not entirely.

And with quality bearings the build plate will "fall down" by itself so a nut with big play will not really affect the prints since the printer never change direction of the build plate during a print.

So...had UM used better bearings and nuts...this problem would never have surfaced for so many users.

3D-Verkstan is shipping replacement bearings to me...lets see how they work...after that I will still use gudo´s nut mod

gudo wrote:

Izzy wrote:Cheers Gudo,
The link for Neotko's double ended screwed rod, looking at the photo it looks like it is normally threaded at both ends and not a LH thread and a RH thread.
I'm going to get some marine turnbuckles in stainless steel from eBay, cut of the forks and modify the ends, to either fit your rod ends or a slight redesign to suit some brackets.

Hi all
Hi Izzy !
About the bed stabilizer rod arms
for you and for to any other member, I can make the rods M6mmx150mm LH/RH end threads in aluminium 2017 (hight grade) for 10€ the pair, if you want pm me

Can we get more insights on how that works?
I wonder if this would be also applicable on a UMO+ / UMO with HBK but that doesn't use the "back cover".
In that case either one would need to use a printable back cover or have this modified to attach directly on the bearings.
Looking forward your insights on this Gudo

This is what I made for umo+ for Gudo mod
I'm very busy this week specially with a cold and being half time on bed, so I will probably upload it this weekend.

Neotko wrote:This is what I made for umo+ for Gudo mod

This looks interesting Neotko, I also saw in another post (the one about removing pla prints with window cleaner) that you printed a replacement part in PLA for the remaining wooden part of the Z cover. Do you have a link to that design too?
As I made my own HBK (but it's basically the same as the UMO+ just with chinese parts) I don't have the wooden pieces and would need to print it all.

Edit: this is the part I'm talking about: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3320 ... -hairspray