I have a TronXY Crux 1 that recently began to give me problems due to phantom filament runout detection, so I used the Marlin GCode to disable runout detection while I ordered a new sensor. But I am now getting problems right on the start of printing which looks to me like the machine still thinks it has to resume an old interrupted print job. I cannot find any way to clear out old prints, and all the TronXY links that come up in a web search lead to a site that isn'tr there any more.
Anybody got any helpful tips to somehow clear down any stored jobs?
I'm going to go back to my trusty HicTop 3DP11 while I wait to see if TronXY themselves can give me a suggestion.
Clear power failure prints from TronXY Crux 1
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Roberts_Clif
- Reactions:
- Posts: 1380
- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
- Location: Washington, State USA
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Clear power failure prints from TronXY Crux 1
I trust my older 3DP11 12 volt 3D Printer though the newer version 3DP12 a 24 volt 3D Printer work just as good.
My 3DP11 is called Red while Blu and Pur are my newer 24 volt 3D Printers.
Have not determined the name will be calling my Hictop 3DP12 CoreXY but will decide one day before I finish build.
There is not much difference having only a few parts needing to change to become 3DP12 other than about half the VRef voltage for stepper drivers.
Would not give them up they print so well, an find trouble shooting is as simple as thier names.
My 3DP11 is called Red while Blu and Pur are my newer 24 volt 3D Printers.
Have not determined the name will be calling my Hictop 3DP12 CoreXY but will decide one day before I finish build.
There is not much difference having only a few parts needing to change to become 3DP12 other than about half the VRef voltage for stepper drivers.
Would not give them up they print so well, an find trouble shooting is as simple as thier names.
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Roberts_Clif
- Reactions:
- Posts: 1380
- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
- Location: Washington, State USA
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Clear power failure prints from TronXY Crux 1
I trust my Hictop 3DP11 the older 12Volt version of the Newer 3DP12 24volt 3D Printer.
In my case the 3DP11 is called Red, my 24volt 3DP12's are Blu and Pur
My first flash was from Chip Luck is located here.
Though have never changed the firmware after posting and confirmed working of my google drive.
It has been a while though believe the firmware modifications for my special hardware is labeled is every firmware as such.
Though can help you through every step you require before the initial flash.
More
viewtopic.php?p=14331#p14331
The above link is from 2019, need a little time remembering that far back.
In my case the 3DP11 is called Red, my 24volt 3DP12's are Blu and Pur
My first flash was from Chip Luck is located here.
Though have never changed the firmware after posting and confirmed working of my google drive.
It has been a while though believe the firmware modifications for my special hardware is labeled is every firmware as such.
Though can help you through every step you require before the initial flash.
More
viewtopic.php?p=14331#p14331
The above link is from 2019, need a little time remembering that far back.
Re: Clear power failure prints from TronXY Crux 1
I managed to resurrect the 3DP11, which I haven't used for almost three years. I had a few (!!!) issues to sort out: There was an immediate MINTEMP error that I remembered was due to the replacement extruder thermistor having a Dupont connector that didn't fit as snug in the motherboard as the proper guided connector, bluetak cured that. And the Z limit switch was faulty, giving me a few nasty moments as the extruder tried to crush the bed. I worked out that although the switch tested Ok when off the machine, as soon as it was screwed back in position it stopped working, so a replacement sorted that issue out. After a few hours of printing I had Y-axis drift which I tracked down to the screws holding the Y-axis belt gripper to the bed coming undone.
I was able to print PLA on the perforated G10 board that was supplied with the original Hictop very well indeed, but for ABS it still needed a dusting of hairspray.
I had also forgotten that lowering the acceleration and jerk figures to safe levels (like 1000 and 1 instead of 3000 and 20) is a per-model operation, you have to do it while the print is in the heating-up stage, it gets reset to those awful values each time to start a new print.
The old 12Volt system takes a lot longer to get started, mainly because it heats the bed up first, allowing the extruder to cool, and then heats up the extruder.
Bur it's good to have it working again so I can carry on with the model railway stuff while I wait for TronXY to get back to me about the other problem.
I was able to print PLA on the perforated G10 board that was supplied with the original Hictop very well indeed, but for ABS it still needed a dusting of hairspray.
I had also forgotten that lowering the acceleration and jerk figures to safe levels (like 1000 and 1 instead of 3000 and 20) is a per-model operation, you have to do it while the print is in the heating-up stage, it gets reset to those awful values each time to start a new print.
The old 12Volt system takes a lot longer to get started, mainly because it heats the bed up first, allowing the extruder to cool, and then heats up the extruder.
Bur it's good to have it working again so I can carry on with the model railway stuff while I wait for TronXY to get back to me about the other problem.
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Roberts_Clif
- Reactions:
- Posts: 1380
- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
- Location: Washington, State USA
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: Clear power failure prints from TronXY Crux 1
I have upgraded my 3DP11 to the best Hictop an have made the same modification to my 3DP12s.
If you were to just read this Thread in this forum about Hictop style 3D printers your Hictop would quickly be your best 3D Printer.
I have found all the best 3DP upgrades an modified all my 3D Printers, to become better working 3D Printers
I put my cheap Hictop's print capabilities up against the best an maybe not beat them, though gave them a run for their money...
Some of the modification are so simple and prove to be invaluable.
Smooth rod stepper motor supports.
A good Proximity sensor for Z-Axis
Stepper motor V-Ref current adjustment.
Y Axis Belt flanged bearing upgrade
Replace the All thread with a Trapezoidal TR8x2 lead screw
Added the controller power Mosfet with a simple heat sink
An some of the better help can from Marlin firmware upgrades ( an yes I configured most of them )
Most of the above are simple, well now that the hard firmware configurations are completed and tested by many Hictop owners.
Reading the hictop thread section of the incredible forum will make you a believer too.
An when you want, post we are always here to help.
If you were to just read this Thread in this forum about Hictop style 3D printers your Hictop would quickly be your best 3D Printer.
I have found all the best 3DP upgrades an modified all my 3D Printers, to become better working 3D Printers
I put my cheap Hictop's print capabilities up against the best an maybe not beat them, though gave them a run for their money...
Some of the modification are so simple and prove to be invaluable.
Smooth rod stepper motor supports.
A good Proximity sensor for Z-Axis
Stepper motor V-Ref current adjustment.
Y Axis Belt flanged bearing upgrade
Replace the All thread with a Trapezoidal TR8x2 lead screw
Added the controller power Mosfet with a simple heat sink
An some of the better help can from Marlin firmware upgrades ( an yes I configured most of them )
Most of the above are simple, well now that the hard firmware configurations are completed and tested by many Hictop owners.
Reading the hictop thread section of the incredible forum will make you a believer too.
An when you want, post we are always here to help.