problems reaching Temperature.

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Grant B
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problems reaching Temperature.

Post by Grant B »

Good evening people,
I'm new to the group, but have been 3d printing Commercially for several years with 4 FlashForge Dreamers, A nova-Pro 600x300, & a couple of Biqu Delta printers.
I have just bought 4 customer returned CR10 300x300 machines, & I have to say, I'm very impressed with the print quality & speed.
One of these arrived beaten & damaged, so I will expand it to 420x420 eventually.

I have a couple of issues to share, & maybe some one here has the answers ?
I'm wanting to print PETg, & need 250'C at the Nozzle & 85'C at the bed....
The machine struggles to hit temperature at the nozzle... any one else have this issue. ?
I know this is HOT for PETg, but this particular material brand seems to need the extra heat when using my other machines too..

Printing PLA at 215 / 65 'C is not a problem though.
I have made the board upgrade with the capacitor & this stabilized the temperature fluctuations nicely, but I still struggle getting the nozzle to 250 when also wanting the heat-bed at 85'C....

Is the power supply just struggling ??
maybe need a higher power heating element ??
insulate the under side of the heat bed ??

any suggestions welcomed.
Grant B
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: problems reaching Temperature.

Post by Roberts_Clif »

I have just posted about a Nova Hotend You might consider something like this with 60, 80, 100 watt heaters.

I have hear many 3D Printer users hitting the 250C and printing PET-g was even considering purchasing some for my personal use.
I have a Upgraded Hictop 3DP11 an Hictop 3DP12 maybe I should test to see if I can achieve this 250C needed to print.

I have never had a problem getting to 230C
An as I look at my filament selection of ABS some requires 230 - 260 C so a good test would be for me to print an ABS temp tower.
Do not really care what is looks like, a simple test to see if it will maintain a 250C nozzle.

I order to determine if you have a sufficient power supply would have to know its size.
The wattage of the hot bed and Single or dual hotends.
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LePaul
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Re: problems reaching Temperature.

Post by LePaul »

It's a DC bed on the CR-10 / CR-10S 12v takes a long time!

(That's why the Tevo Tornado that came out after the CR-10 craze was so popular, having an AC bed that heats up in about a minute)

Insulating could help but you'll still struggle given the power

You might want to consider upgrading to an AC bed, which would require a SSR and some other changes to do that. TH3D (https://www.th3dstudio.com/) or Tiny Machines (https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/) would be two retailers that you could reach out to and inquire the cost, parts needed and so on to do this.

I can think of a few ways you could do it, the question is "What's your comfort level" with improving these cheap Chinese printers with some quality components. If you don't mind tweaking and doing it, it might even be fun!

Many of us buy these cheap printers knowing 2/3 of the electronics are junk and will have to be replaced with more reliable components. Hot ends, power supplies and good extruders to name a few things.
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: problems reaching Temperature.

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Grant B wrote: April 4th, 2019, 8:04 pm
I have a couple of issues to share, & maybe some one here has the answers ?
I'm wanting to print PETg, & need 250'C at the Nozzle & 85'C at the bed....


any suggestions welcomed.
Grant B
Tried to set the Temperature for my test "230-260C ABS Temp Tower"

The Marlin 2.0.X UI won’t allow me to set Nozzle Temperature higher than 245C.
Anyone know where to set temperature in any Marlin firmware to allow me to set it higher than 245C in the UI ("LCD control")

#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 260
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: problems reaching Temperature.

Post by Roberts_Clif »

I appears that in the firmware there must a temp calculation from HEATER_0_MAXTEMP
To cacluate the the Max UI temperatures difference of 15C.

when I changed the firmware to 260C the UI control range is 245C
when I changed the firmware to 275C the UI control range is 260C

Unfortunately, hot-end tubes made with both PEEK and PTFE begin to breakdown at temperatures above 240°C
This make me deduce that if I want to keep the Hot-end using PTFE tubing that I should not Print above 240°C.

ultralcd.cpp // Marlin 1.1.x

#if HOTENDS == 1
MENU_MULTIPLIER_ITEM_EDIT_CALLBACK(int3, MSG_NOZZLE, &thermalManager.target_temperature[0], 0, HEATER_0_MAXTEMP - 15, watch_temp_callback_E0);
#else // HOTENDS > 1


menu-temperature.cpp // Marlin 2.0.x


void _lcd_preheat(const int16_t endnum, const int16_t temph, const int16_t tempb, const uint8_t fan) {
if (temph > 0) thermalManager.setTargetHotend(MIN(heater_maxtemp[endnum] - 15, temph), endnum);


So as not to over heat the throat PTFE liner will set to 270.
Still would like to know why! -15 degrees is subtracted in the LCD menu section.
Last edited by Roberts_Clif on April 9th, 2019, 3:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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LePaul
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Re: problems reaching Temperature.

Post by LePaul »

How is any of that remotely related to the original question on the CR-10?
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: problems reaching Temperature.

Post by Roberts_Clif »

Grant B wrote: April 4th, 2019, 8:04 pm
I'm wanting to print PETg, & need 250'C at the Nozzle & 85'C at the bed....
The machine struggles to hit temperature at the nozzle... any one else have this issue. ?
I know this is HOT for PETg, but this particular material brand seems to need the extra heat when using my other machines too..

any suggestions welcomed.
Grant B
If Grant' Marlin configurations are set like mine, then the Max stable temperature that could be reached is 245C with HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 260.

I am only suggesting that his firmware may need to be configured with a larger #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 270 .
Because "Adjustable Temperature limit -15C" is set by the formula in Marlin firmware shown above...
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