Crappppp Ultimaker 2+ feeder

[LePaul]

Yeah no issues with the heater block or nozzle

Honestly, in looking at a mess, i think it knocked over one of the objects and the mess stuck to the nozzle and got dragged along for the ride.

I'm wondering if an atomic pull is in order if the material isn't flowing out steadily prior to print.

Maybe those feeder jams caused some junk to get cooked up in the nozzle?

[reibuehl]

I have similar issues currently - I blamed it on the roll of filament I currently have and ordered a new one from a different vendor. I also see that the priming in the front left position at the beginning of the print does not extrude material after 2-3 prints. I did start my prints now by heating up the build plate manually, then using the "Move Material" function from the advanced maintenance menu until material comes out of the nozzle and then start the print. I hope this is not necessary anymore with the new material, but now I fear it might be a different issue. Is it possible that the G-Code does not do a proper heat-up?

[LePaul]

Well the irony is...it's the same gcode!

I have observed it with the large frame part gcode and the robot gcode that came with the printer.

It's a little frustrating...I mean I can do these prints on my UMO....while not as pretty as on the UM2+. But I am having these weird issues with the UM2+ that ...I just don't know.

Have you done an Atomic recently?

All I can think of is that maybe there's some burned up junk in there and it should remove it.

YET...I got a perfectly primed print last night, where at the beginning of the print, the usual amount of material ozzed out. That didn't happen with the second or third. Same gcode!

[reibuehl]

I have replaced the nozzle with a fresh one and after that I could do 3-4 good prints until it started again.

[LePaul]

I created a topic about this. Maybe we can gain some insight from support on what's going on. I'd rather not have to keep replacing nozzles just to get consistent prints

[Neotko]

I don't know LePaul. I do constant atomics for my printers because I use many colors. And even so sometimes I need to do a good 2-3 atomics to fully clean all. I think is a basic and necessary activity to get clean and reliable prints. After all, we are burning plastic and all the dust that can carry will/might end on the nozzle tip.

I change my nozzles e3d every 5-6 months. But just because their tip erodes.

For long hours prints there much care that must be taken to ensure that it will print. Ofc on an idea world 30€ filament should not tangle but even faber can entangle. That's why I spool my filament.

Install a filament cleaner near your new bearing to keep a bit more controlled the duat that goes with the filament into the nozzle.

[Izzy]

The fan shield seems to be a magnet for filament
Check out my Ducts on YouMagine, very easy to keep the head clean...
It could be the filament is slightly too hot being extruded and tends to curl

[LePaul]

The machine shows the default temp of 210 being used, bed plate 60C I've been manually upping the bed temp to 67C before prints commence (Tune option)

[reibuehl]

I have compiled a firmware with 100mm^3 priming instead of the default 50mm^3. I will give that one a try for a while. I hope this brings back reliable results again on my UM2.

[LePaul]

Yes, let us know....I was hopeful this UM2+ would run circles around my UMO.

[Izzy]

That's a bit warm for a bed temperature on PLA, I usually use only 50'C and hairspray

[LePaul]

Well the Remove Material option is very prone to leaving pieces in the Bowden tube. Noticed this in the middle of the tube

But my Atomic came out very very clean

Doing a test robot now. New spool of Ultimaker Orange filament

[LePaul]

First layer lifting.

64C and glue stick

[LePaul]

This time I tried at 69C

I aborted the previous print to see if the print heads would extrude a lot of material at the beginning. As other instances, it took a long time to ooze out 2-3 inches then started the print (where I'd usually see triple that)

Still wondering why prints are lifting. Started with clean glass (Windex).

[reibuehl]

For PLA this is really strange - especially with such small objects like the robot. I always use 60°C for PLA - often without glue, sometimes with glue - but don't see such warping. But I also haven't used Ultimaker PLA in a long time. Have you checked the bed to nozzle distance recently? I had bad bed adhesion in the past when I didn't level the bed after a nozzle change.