LePaul wrote:Question....for the Ultimaker Original heater block, I had to move the brass pipe more into the heater block, so I would have a slight space between the nozzle and heater block. Is that normal? Or is every UMO ruby install a bit different?
In theory the threaded part of the nozzles should be equally long on the UMO and the ruby nozzle, however I had more people needing to adjust the brass pipe, so people who install it on UMO should expect to have to tweak it a bit.
danilius wrote:I broke the nozzle by unscrewing it cold, sorry Anders. In my defence I had no idea it was only supposed to be unscrewed whilst hot, but it makes much more sense to install and remove nozzles under heat anyway, I just never thought about it. Never mind, when they come out I will buy one because I have a roll of carbon lying around that I really need to test.
Don't worry about breaking the nozzle danilius, this was the whole point the testing, giving it away for free to people asking them to try to break it is the ultimate way to test a product and I got very valuable input from the testing!
The possible failure modes were actually the most important information at this point as I already knew it printed okay but needed to know if the design was rigid enough.
LePaul wrote:I can probably help him out
I should probably explain that Paul has a stock of ruby nozzle components that I send him for testing on the American market, however there turned ut to be few testers over there, so Paul has more rubies than I have right now
I don't mind if Paul sends replacement nozzles to those who broke your nozzles and even to others requesting nozzles in this thread!
However:
- It is completely up to Paul to decide whether he wants to do this or not.
- I expect Paul to charge a reasonable amount for this, as he should not work for free.
- We are talking about the prototypes here, not the improved version.
Apart from that I have a shortage of rubies at home, I am abroad right now, otherwise I would happily send the replacements myself