3D Printing Forum

Update as of 13/06/2016

PT100 Sensor:

Added the PT100 sensor with the whole upgrade kit from E3D.
It's basically a drop-in replacement and connects to the same pins (different order) of the UMO thermocouple.
This allowed me to use the E3D heater cartridge too (still running at 19V) and get up to higher temperatures.
Additionally, I was able to remove the stock UMO black cable that connects to the fan and thermocouple amplifier.
That cable was really heavy! Now the whole bowden feels way lighter.

Print head and filament size

The print head doesn't look any-longer like the previous pictures.
I now switched to 1.75mm filament using an E3D universal 24v hot end with PT100 upgrade kit.

To do:

Double cooling fans for the new print head. Currently evaluating different kinds of setups.

Update 13/07/2016


After some extensive testing I finalized the dual fan setup for the print head and decided to upgrade even more the whole Z setup.

PSU:
I bought a 24v 400W PSU that is going to fit as a drop-in replacement and complete the printer's conversion to 24V while sending into retirement the stock 19v PSU.

Z-Leadscrew:
I purchased a Nema17 motor with the tr8*8 leadscrew attached for a total lenght of 30cm.
I also ordered an anti-backlash nut to replace the stock low quality nut.

Z-Stage:
I purchased from ebay a Z aluminum alloy build plate (UMO+ Build Plate clone) and from Amazon a couple of LMK12LUU linear bearings

Hot bed:
I purchased from Amazon a PEI sheet. That is going to be the building surface and the future.
This PEI sheet will initially be attached over a piece of borosilcate glass and a MK2B hot bed.

Solid state relay:
I purchased an oversized SSR from Amazon, it is capable of handligh way higher DC voltages than the ones I'll be dealing with.

Total cost:

PSU: 40€
Z Leadscrew: 30€
Anti-Backlash nut: 15€
Aluminum alloy build plate: 30€
LMK12LUU bearings: 10€ (5€x2)
Solid state relay: 15€
PEI sheet: 15€
Borosilcate glass: 10€
Hot bed: 10€

Total: 175€ including VAT and almost all the shipping costs

Compared to the UMO hot bed upgrade kit that is sold for 245€ (without VAT) and goes up to 298€ with VAT, that is quite a good save for a quality product!

Currently the only piece I'm missing is the temperature sensor for the hot bed.
I actually have the thermistor that came with my E3D V6 hot end (which was upgraded to use a PT100), so I'm thinkin of recycling it for this purpose.

The MK2B bed is going to be only a temporary upgrade, as it will be replaced with a MK42 bed once it'll be available for purchase as a spare part.

All the above mentioned upgrades have been installed on the machine.
The only exception is the PEI sheet which is 30x30 cm.
I will cut it down to 26x26 cm for now and find a way to attach it on the MK2B bed (which is smaller) as a temporary upgrade.

I modified the firmware to re-define at a software level the new bed size and set the bed temperature sensor to 5 in order to use E3D's V6 stock sensor.
I had to solder a 4.7k Ohm resistor on the board to get the correct temperature readings, but I did so by soldering some small connectors on the UMO board so that I can unplug the resistor whenever I want (should I go with a future PT100 upgrade).

The bed is working in bang-bang mode right now with the SSR (which was a bitch to connect, I actually had to go look at the schematics)

You've done some impressive work!

Thanks man!

Here's some pictures of how the printer looks like now

The name of this plastic mesh tube in English, which laid the cable from the board to hotend? Several times I wanted to order this on eBay, but don't know the right name...

These ones?
'Braided sleeve' in English or 'Gewebeschlauch' in German should give you plenty of hits...

Yes, I confirm using a braided sleeve.

Also: I'm currently waiting for a metal braided sleeve to do a proper shielding (better than tinfoil) on the PT100 sensor cable.
This specific sleeve will be connected to the GND pin of the PSU via a separate wire.

Amedee wrote:These ones?

IMG_7937.jpg

'Braided sleeve' in English or 'Gewebeschlauch' in German should give you plenty of hits...

Exacllty! Thanks, man!!

Just updated my UMO again.
It now has a UMO2 hot bed with a PEI sheet attached to it and a piece of glass underneath to prevent the aluminum from bending.
I also updated my laser-head with the following design, so it now has a fan too: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-s ... -umo-laser
It looks like this: I'm currently using a 20x20x1.6 cm MDF piece that I add on top of the PEI when I want to user the laser to cut stuff.
I'm currently using Inkscape with the Jphotonics laser plugin.
The instructions can be found at this link: https://jtechphotonics.com/?page_id=2012
I've configured to use M42 P13 to action the laser, but I'm considering to switch to P10 as per Drayson's suggestion on the matter.
I'm still evaluating this point as I'm also tempted to upgrade my electronics to a Rambo Mini v.1.3a

I did modify Marlin to add some extra functions to set the machine in some specific positions when using the laser.
Here's the link: https://github.com/Antiklesys/Marlin-1
This is a fork of Amedee's firmware that is also posted on this forum.

Next to come: display upgrade, extruder upgrade, PINDA probe for auto bed leveling, firmware update

Very impressive work!

Thought I'd share a picture of the new printer's bed while printing the socket for the new display.
I just purchased this on Amazon:
I believe this was quite a good deal as it was priced 64 USD on it's site and I got it for roughly 17€ instead.

As per thread: http://3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php ... 7198#p7198

I replaced this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultim ... ronics-fan
with this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mount ... iginal-umo

It is slightly quieter now, but those small heatsink are in the way.
I may be removing them at some point when replacing to:

take a look at the silent step sticks - theyre great and so damn silent...

Do you have a code for them?