3D Printing Forum

I'm wishing I could go back in time and had waited for the UMO+ (or UM2) !

You already have a bed kit, buy a um2 china board and drill some holes on the woodframe and done. Umo+

I haven't seen many happy endings with this china boards....and I really don't want to give them my money

I use one. I have another on a bag for a rainy day.

Ofc the china board takes 3secs more to bootup, it has a weird 3C difference no matter what pt100 I plug, but ofc cheap, is cheap.

I know Fabrc8 will want big $ for a real board...and then there's the matter of upgrading the print head...or just upgrade to the UM2+ Extruder upgrade. Figure in $399 for the board, $399 for the extruder upgrade...and well, that's probably money better spent on another UM2+

Extruder upgrade.... you can keep the umo feeder men, is more powerful than the um2+

And important parts to change on hotend, heater 35W, tfm coupler, metal spacer. 60$ tops.

That's what I did to my UM2 head on my UMO+ so far. Not sure on the total but around the sum Neotko mentioned.

I don't like the handling of the stock feeder though but it works fine. So it will stay there until the ZGE is ready

I finally fixed the metal shield for the fan shroud by gudo so now I have better fans on my UM2 head
Running a test print now with the "crappy" reel of Ultimaker filament to see how the fan shroud works and holds together. Fan speed set to 50%.

Once I know it works fine I will make a small modification to the hinges and then print a new version.

PS: Image rotation courtesy of phpBB... DS.

Got everything dialed in pretty good for printing PLA @0.1 mm with Gudo's fan shroud. Fan speed is down to 30% now. For 0.2 and up I haven't tried so much but I think it will be enough to up the temperature a bit.

These photos are from a print with Polymaker Polymax.

Printed a 3Dbenchy with Colorfabb XT to see if the suggested settings were ok before starting to print all the parts for the F1 steering wheel

So 0.2 mm @245C/70C, 50 mm/s...turned out pretty good. Fan settings same as for PLA.
Bridging looked good also (part for the steering wheel):

Wow, you did that with XT? That's a notoriously difficult filament to dial in correctly

Yes, its XT.

All I did was read the recommendations on Colorfabb's homepage and tried that

The big parts for the steering wheel has some slight warping issues. So that's the one area that I need to improve right now...but for these parts it doesn't really matter. It's a good project to experiment with XT and learn how to use it

Tried diluted wood glue and set the bed temp to 74C and all the XT parts I have printed since then have been 100% flat

Also for XT you need Amedee firmware with PID control or the Tinkergnome firmware with PID. UM can't offer PID on UMO/UMO+/UM2 due EU electrical noise emissions. No PID, no good adhesion, for almost any complex material due changes of temperature

Already loaded and enabled

But, imo, the glue stick that came with the printer is not the best. Wood glue is way superior so far.