3D Printing Forum

From left to right...

12%. 10%. 8%

I think you need to increase the retracttion distance by 0.5mm. Try again one robot and check if the hands/supports print better

Go to 5.1 ?

Yes

Those robots don't look too bad. I think with a different PLA you could achieve nice results. Try pure PLA.

Test robot with higher retraction

It's weird. Do what @Dim3nsioneer said, and use other brand.

Also do this routine stuff:

- Clean with a brush the feeder knurled bolt
- Make sure that the bowden doesn't move when you push/pull (so you are sure that the bowden clips ain't damaged by use/time)

Also I remember you made a 'bigger' hole on the fancap, so also there might be air bouncing back on the block (that would explain the heat fluctuations also)

So... Now that it's almost ok, please make photos of hotend, front, side, bottom, extruder. Let see if there's anything else mechanically that it's troublesome.

Here's a piece i did overnight that seems to have come out quite nicely (I seem to be on a streak of good luck !)

Here's the photos

I just cleaned the extruder knurled piece recently when my filament curled and jammed at the filament opening

Sorry about the sideways and upside pic...it is only the preview....click and they are fine

GR5 mentioned lowering acceleration but I am not sure where?

Also if after that you still have all that ringing next to those round bumps then lower your acceleration to 2000 mm/sec/sec or instead maybe tighten the belts a bit more. Tightening or loosening the belts will change the harmonic frequency and reduce that ringing. Loosen them too much though and you get play. Lowering acceleration to 2000mm/sec/sec should reduce the jerk which will reduce the ringing also.

On the Ulticontroller. Or with a M201...

I don't know but my first impression it's:

The barrel it's way too deep inside the Aluminium block. That increase the heat zone and drip + could explain that weird blops.
Also the fancap hole it's too big, it should be as small as possible to keep the air from hitting the block. That could explain the heat fluctuations.

Yeah, there should be a decent gap between the peek isolator and the aluminium block. This way the heat zone is creating up and possibly deteriorating your coupler, making the filament get stuck for bits.

Check out the pictures I placed when completing the fan upgrade, or the official build pictures

I'm not sure I understand the gap you guys are commenting on? A few months when I adjusted it and the new ruby nozzle, everyone said it was perfect?