I couldn't resist and bought one...
- LePaul
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3974
- Joined: February 7th, 2016, 10:26 pm
- Location: Bangor, Maine USA
- 3D Printer(s): 24 - Yes I have a problem!
- Contact:
I couldn't resist and bought one...
Since my FT-5 is taking a long time to get built and the CR-10 was on sale for under $400....I couldn't help myself!
I'm pretty sure mine ships from China so I won't see it for 2 weeks or so....
I'm pretty sure mine ships from China so I won't see it for 2 weeks or so....
- Roberts_Clif
- Reactions:
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
- Location: Washington, State USA
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
Heard about the HICTOP CR-10 3D Printer Prusa I3 DIY Kit or 3DP-20, Print build 300x300x400.
The first thing I noticed was the Controller and Extruder assembly were inside a metal shield.
This is good for EFI protection which the other Hictop models desperately Need.
After reading the assembly instructions was not impressed, it was by far the easiest DIY Printer to assembly but somehow lacking.
The HICTOP 3DP-20 3D Printer Prusa I3 DIY Kit is a good buy.
Scanned YouTube for the 3DP20 and found, they did not mention in the assembly instructions that you could tighten the bad Plate. They have an off center hole inside a support nut that when turned will adjust the tension of the bed plate. This can allow for an off center Bed if care is not taken. More importantly this will put undue stress on a fragile bed plate, tighten to just snug “DO NOT OVER STRESS“.
Read my other Post building an EFI Shield for Hictop Controller boards.
The first thing I noticed was the Controller and Extruder assembly were inside a metal shield.
This is good for EFI protection which the other Hictop models desperately Need.
After reading the assembly instructions was not impressed, it was by far the easiest DIY Printer to assembly but somehow lacking.
The HICTOP 3DP-20 3D Printer Prusa I3 DIY Kit is a good buy.
Scanned YouTube for the 3DP20 and found, they did not mention in the assembly instructions that you could tighten the bad Plate. They have an off center hole inside a support nut that when turned will adjust the tension of the bed plate. This can allow for an off center Bed if care is not taken. More importantly this will put undue stress on a fragile bed plate, tighten to just snug “DO NOT OVER STRESS“.
Read my other Post building an EFI Shield for Hictop Controller boards.
- LePaul
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3974
- Joined: February 7th, 2016, 10:26 pm
- Location: Bangor, Maine USA
- 3D Printer(s): 24 - Yes I have a problem!
- Contact:
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
Well there's four people in the R2 Building and BB-8 Builder clubs that have one. Two adore them, two like them but have had to make a few tweaks to get quality prints.
For $389, I figured it's worth a shot.
My $449 Folgertech FT-5 is becoming a nightmare to assemble and tune...so I decided to go with 'almost ready to print' instead of another FT-5
For $389, I figured it's worth a shot.
My $449 Folgertech FT-5 is becoming a nightmare to assemble and tune...so I decided to go with 'almost ready to print' instead of another FT-5
- Roberts_Clif
- Reactions:
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
- Location: Washington, State USA
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
I Believe that. 3D Printing at a low cost needs a few tweaks to deliver quality prints.
But most of all it needs good operators willing to make needed tweaks.
But most of all it needs good operators willing to make needed tweaks.
- Izzy
- Reactions:
- Posts: 604
- Joined: February 12th, 2016, 2:29 am
- Location: England
- 3D Printer(s): Ultimaker 2
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
I must admit I'm quite impressed with the print quality from Sues Wanhao Duplicator i3Plus. She has added the z bracing and done the Swiss micro hotend upgrade, I've ordered a blower fan and will redesign the current cooling ductvto suit the blower and improve the part cooling.
For a £400 printer it does print well.
For a £400 printer it does print well.
- LePaul
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3974
- Joined: February 7th, 2016, 10:26 pm
- Location: Bangor, Maine USA
- 3D Printer(s): 24 - Yes I have a problem!
- Contact:
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
These inexpensive printers are really giving the bigger companies a run for their money
At best they do Ultimaker 2+ level print quality, from what I have seen. What they lack in reliability, they gain strongly in print volume
At best they do Ultimaker 2+ level print quality, from what I have seen. What they lack in reliability, they gain strongly in print volume
- GrueMaster
- Reactions:
- Posts: 522
- Joined: March 15th, 2017, 8:46 pm
- Location: Oregon
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
Finally, my semi-annual stock sale cleared. Just ordered the Hictop CR-10S. Supposed to already have some improvements over the CR-10. Printer arrives Thursday, but with weekend camping and all, I likely won't open the box until next week.
Anyone know of any good must-have mods I should start printing on my 3DP-17?
Anyone know of any good must-have mods I should start printing on my 3DP-17?
- LePaul
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3974
- Joined: February 7th, 2016, 10:26 pm
- Location: Bangor, Maine USA
- 3D Printer(s): 24 - Yes I have a problem!
- Contact:
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
Bed leveling knobs https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2408748
Filament Guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186253
Strain Relief https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186203
Filament Guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186253
Strain Relief https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186203
- LePaul
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3974
- Joined: February 7th, 2016, 10:26 pm
- Location: Bangor, Maine USA
- 3D Printer(s): 24 - Yes I have a problem!
- Contact:
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
Looks like you will get the dual z screw, which is good. I have that upgrade but have not installed it yet
- GrueMaster
- Reactions:
- Posts: 522
- Joined: March 15th, 2017, 8:46 pm
- Location: Oregon
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
I bought preloaded nuts for my 3DP-17, but haven't installed them yet. May just wait and put them on this printer.
- GrueMaster
- Reactions:
- Posts: 522
- Joined: March 15th, 2017, 8:46 pm
- Location: Oregon
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
Ugh. So, my first impressions are...lacking. Build was easy. Struggling with getting the bed level, appears the glass warps down .1mm in the center. I can move the print head to each corner (just above the bed screws), and slip a piece of paper under the tip with some friction, but the center is still loose. Printing a .2mm thick bed level test print at .2mm 1st layer height (1 square in each corner + 1 in the center - similar to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2515728), the corner squares are all .2mm +/- .01mm and the center (when it sticks) is sloppy as hell. Best case has been .35mm.
Tried flipping the glass and releveling, same issue.
Tried flipping the glass and releveling, same issue.
- LePaul
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3974
- Joined: February 7th, 2016, 10:26 pm
- Location: Bangor, Maine USA
- 3D Printer(s): 24 - Yes I have a problem!
- Contact:
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
I feel your pain, out of the box all "looks" good, as most of the reviews show. But if you are more advanced user like @Samurai i, he's pointed out how his calibration cube was off and esteps on the extruder needed work
And you can't save settings via the LCD/control box, so you're better off just adding M92 commands to the start of your gcode
And you can't save settings via the LCD/control box, so you're better off just adding M92 commands to the start of your gcode
- GrueMaster
- Reactions:
- Posts: 522
- Joined: March 15th, 2017, 8:46 pm
- Location: Oregon
- 3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S
Re: I couldn't resist and bought one...
I don't think editing gcode will help. Besides being extremely painful, the issue is the center of the build area only. I have done manual level tests at 9 points (4 corners, 4 edges, center), and the center is easily 2 business cards thick, while the perimeter is printer paper thick, suggesting the glass is concave. Flipping the glass has the same results.
Will look into buying a pack of 12" mirrors as suggested on other forums.
Will look into buying a pack of 12" mirrors as suggested on other forums.