Print issues: stringing
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Print issues: stringing
I've recently started printing with a CR-10S, and in general the prints come out well and after a little cleanup they look fine.
Still, I'm seeing some stringing and I'm wondering what the best way to minimize or eliminate it is. I've attached a few example pictures to show the problem. Again, the prints are coming out okay for the most part, but I'd like to get rid of the stringing.
I'm using Cura 3.6.0 with standard, out-of-the-box settings. The filament used is what came with the CR10 so I don't know how good it is. I have some Hatchbox and Amazon filament but haven't used any if it yet. Maybe the filament that came with the CR10 is of poor quality. (??)
Hmm, can't seem to upload more than one file (they're ~150Kb in size)
What are the typical causes of stringing, and what steps can I take to reduce or eliminate it?
Still, I'm seeing some stringing and I'm wondering what the best way to minimize or eliminate it is. I've attached a few example pictures to show the problem. Again, the prints are coming out okay for the most part, but I'd like to get rid of the stringing.
I'm using Cura 3.6.0 with standard, out-of-the-box settings. The filament used is what came with the CR10 so I don't know how good it is. I have some Hatchbox and Amazon filament but haven't used any if it yet. Maybe the filament that came with the CR10 is of poor quality. (??)
Hmm, can't seem to upload more than one file (they're ~150Kb in size)
What are the typical causes of stringing, and what steps can I take to reduce or eliminate it?
- LePaul
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Re: Print issues: stringing
First, if you havent already, do a PID autotune
Stringing is going to be one of two things...or a little of both...temperature or retraction.
Stringing is going to be one of two things...or a little of both...temperature or retraction.
- GrueMaster
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Re: Print issues: stringing
You may also need to do this test on a variety of different filaments. Most basic filaments from the same brand (different colors from Hatchbox for example) will use the same or close to the same settings, but other filaments (like Hatchbox wood filament) will need very different settings. I recently printed a Groot pencil holder to hold wooden stir sticks next to the Keureg at our work. When it was done, it looked like he was in a cobweb. Easy enough to clean up, but ...
- LePaul
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Re: Print issues: stringing
Yeah wood filaments are notoriously stringy
As is PETG
Each filament does require some fine tuning.
As is PETG
Each filament does require some fine tuning.
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Re: Print issues: stringing
I'm trying to print a master spool file provided by Solutech (3dsolutech.com/portfolio/project/3d-solutech-master-spool).
The filament is 3D Solutech Real Grey PLA (amazon.com/gp/product/B07G27L498/)
The nozzle is set to 200 degrees and the bed is at 60 degrees.
Here's what I'm seeing- some odd build up of plastic, and some areas where it looks like it's pulling away or shrinking.
Is this a bed adhesion issue, or? Straight areas print beautifully but smaller shapes produce a kind of build up, and some areas seem to be shrinking (like in the picture- see the center circle where it looks like the nozzle took a shortcut or the filament shrunk).
The bed is level; the first thing it drew was a large circle, and it made a perfect print- a nice even bead, good adhesion, looked perfect. But when it got to the area where they've stamped their name, it starts to produce the build up. It doesn't really look like stringing but maybe it's a bunch of strings getting all clumped together?
The filament is 3D Solutech Real Grey PLA (amazon.com/gp/product/B07G27L498/)
The nozzle is set to 200 degrees and the bed is at 60 degrees.
Here's what I'm seeing- some odd build up of plastic, and some areas where it looks like it's pulling away or shrinking.
Is this a bed adhesion issue, or? Straight areas print beautifully but smaller shapes produce a kind of build up, and some areas seem to be shrinking (like in the picture- see the center circle where it looks like the nozzle took a shortcut or the filament shrunk).
The bed is level; the first thing it drew was a large circle, and it made a perfect print- a nice even bead, good adhesion, looked perfect. But when it got to the area where they've stamped their name, it starts to produce the build up. It doesn't really look like stringing but maybe it's a bunch of strings getting all clumped together?
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Re: Print issues: stringing
Well that was disappointing.
It looked like it had managed to correct itself and the print was coming out looking pretty good...and then about 6 hours into it it just started spewing filament here and there and everywhere. Ugh. Booooo.
Still no idea what's causing the defects shown in the image.
It looked like it had managed to correct itself and the print was coming out looking pretty good...and then about 6 hours into it it just started spewing filament here and there and everywhere. Ugh. Booooo.
Still no idea what's causing the defects shown in the image.
- LePaul
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Re: Print issues: stringing
Why are you printing on tape and no just the glass, say, with extra hold hairspray?
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Re: Print issues: stringing
I tried just on the bare glass and that was a no go, zero adhesion.. I just got some hairspray and thought I might try that, maybe on top of the tape just to see if it does anything. I've seen quite a few videos where people swear by it so I'll give it a shot.
The Solutech prints actually came out okay for the most part once they got going. I'm trying some orange Hatchbox filament now and if anything it's worse. The prints have a 75% success rate but it also seems to have much more trouble with adhesion.
It seems that the first few layers don't go down firmly and individual threads get pushed/tugged out of place or sometimes smushed up into a ball. Again, this is mostly with the brim and the bottom face of the part.
- GrueMaster
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Re: Print issues: stringing
Sounds like you need to level the bed better. Could also be that the glass is warped (common issue).
As I'm sure you've read/heard, to level, you have to first home the printer, then (recommended) move the print head to within 10mm of each corner, drop the print head (Z-axis) to zero, and raise the bed so that you can barely (with friction), slide a thin piece of paper between (I use a post-it note). Do this for each corner, twice. Then in the center, if the gap doesn't match, you have a warped sheet of glass. If this is the case, get a pack of mirrors from Home Depot/Lowes/Ikea/etc.
To fine tune it beyond this requires a test print. The best I have used is one my son made. Once you level with the paper, run this print and adjust while it is printing. The idea is that when the printer is filling in each square in the corners, the fill lines (which are actually part of the design) are close enough that when the filament pushes flat, they blend together. When done, the bottom of the print (glass side) will be as smooth as glass, and the top will have tiny ridges from the print lines (no ironing involved). It may take a few runs.
As I'm sure you've read/heard, to level, you have to first home the printer, then (recommended) move the print head to within 10mm of each corner, drop the print head (Z-axis) to zero, and raise the bed so that you can barely (with friction), slide a thin piece of paper between (I use a post-it note). Do this for each corner, twice. Then in the center, if the gap doesn't match, you have a warped sheet of glass. If this is the case, get a pack of mirrors from Home Depot/Lowes/Ikea/etc.
To fine tune it beyond this requires a test print. The best I have used is one my son made. Once you level with the paper, run this print and adjust while it is printing. The idea is that when the printer is filling in each square in the corners, the fill lines (which are actually part of the design) are close enough that when the filament pushes flat, they blend together. When done, the bottom of the print (glass side) will be as smooth as glass, and the top will have tiny ridges from the print lines (no ironing involved). It may take a few runs.
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- LePaul
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Re: Print issues: stringing
Many guys use the 12 x 12 mirror tiles....since if mirror is warped...you'll get a pretty wonky reflection!
I found it enormously distracting when trying to level and fine tune the bed. I switched to the polypropelene bed and an EZABL....so much easier
I found it enormously distracting when trying to level and fine tune the bed. I switched to the polypropelene bed and an EZABL....so much easier
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Re: Print issues: stringing
Do you have a source for those that you can point me to?
As an aside, my CR10 came with the larger upgraded levelling knobs. They have "Up" and "Down" labels along with arrows printed into the knobs, but they're difficult to see. I took some of my wife's bright orange nail polish and paint over the "Up" and "Down" labels (and the arrows), then wipe it away. This leaves some of the polish in the labels and arrows making them easy to see.
- LePaul
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Re: Print issues: stringing
I have bought several from Tiny Machines
https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/ ... d-printers
Yeah the knobs are tough...I agree. I struggle with which is UP and DOWN too
https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/ ... d-printers
Yeah the knobs are tough...I agree. I struggle with which is UP and DOWN too
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Re: Print issues: stringing
Me too...I finally made some 'up' and 'down' labels with arrows and stuck one to the top of the front rail.
I also suspect my bed might be warped- I can get all 4 corners to be consistent with a paper feeler gauge, but it seems like the center position is always a bit high (less friction on the feeler gauge). So I'll probably have to get a glass square or mirror to correct that. Pretty disappointing that it comes warped right out of the box, especially since it's one of the primary components and has a huge effect on printing.