Paul's FT-5 Build

Discussion of the Folger Tech FT-5 Large Scale 3D Printer Kit
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LePaul
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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » July 17th, 2017, 10:37 pm

A few things I'm currently working on...

The LCD controller is a bit annoying. You have to turn left to move down? It's just opposite of every other Marlin printer I have owned. Can this be altered?

Using the Prepare and Move Axis, I can move the Z down (positive number) but unable to raise the bed. Why?

I'm curious if I have more work to do in the firmware config in Arduino. Specifically the X Y and Z size. When Io hit Home the print head goes all the way to the left and rams the side (no limit switch on that size). So I have my work cut out getting those sizes calibrated

E-Steps went very well. First try at extruding 100mm of filament, I was only off by 4 mm. Made that change in the firmware and tried again. 100mm movement was spot on.

Next up is the z limit switch height. I printed a better one and need to use pronterface to raise the bed (or S3D) and get the bed within a few mm of the nozzle. Then I can adjust the limit switch.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by GrueMaster » July 17th, 2017, 11:26 pm

Ah, I get it. Customize/optimize as you go. Makes sense. I plan on doing that with my second printer, just not sure when I will get it. Next month likely.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by Xeno » July 18th, 2017, 2:32 am

If the print head moves to the oposite side then where the switch is, you need to adjust the X firmware from + to - or otherway around :)

only if you have done a successful homing, then you can move all the X-Y-Z positions, otherwise the printer thinks the axis is already at it's limit and wont move.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » July 18th, 2017, 12:16 pm

Did yours to that on first power up/testing too?

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by Xeno » July 18th, 2017, 2:34 pm

LePaul wrote:
July 18th, 2017, 12:16 pm
Did yours to that on first power up/testing too?
Mine homed correctly in first try, but I hear of builders having the same issue, but it is not a big problem, just adjust the firmware, and upload again :)

I have more issues with layer shifts that won't go away, that others have no problem with ;-)
upgraded to stronger steppers, V-Slot system for the X-axis, and Openrail system for the Y-axis (still have to be installed)
and Duet board for the overheating stepper drivers.
costs a bundle but seems to work :)

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » July 19th, 2017, 12:36 pm

Well I did have to invert the X axis

The default is this

Code: Select all

// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
So now X is FALSE I'm at work and can't recall if I reversed the Y, too. I think so.

But...using Simplify3D's control panel, homing X went right. Homing Y went rear. Home all brings the z up, print head rear right.

Sounds good, right?

Using the LCD/onboard controller, Autohome goes rear LEFT

Trying to print a test item, as a result, tries to print on the far LEFT side (object rendered in middle of build plate)

I also need a better setup/clips to secure the glass to bed. I have to trim my cork board so the clips fit under enough to hold the glass. But on larger prints, I think those clips will be in the way.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » July 19th, 2017, 12:43 pm

But I did manage to attach the old IKEA LED light strips I had used on the Ultimaker Original on the FT-5
20156017_10155320180800169_8080240973413806207_n.jpg

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » July 20th, 2017, 10:44 am

Some progress and disappointment....

We have the print head homing correctly now. No changes were made but for whatever reason.....divine intervention from the Lord?...homing is working.

With the shorter Aero print head, I have had to adjust the z upwards a bit

And then the problems began...binding on the Z

With some great assistance from other builders, we started debugging (James and Clyde spent time with me during my Facebook live session, offering some good ideas)

Problem 1 - Bed springs are very, very weak. I run into instances where, when leveling the bed, one corner will not level since the screw is out all the way and the sprint was too weak to provide upward force. Need to find suitable replacement

Problem 2 - I was very diligent during the frame assembly to make sure everything was square. Of course, anything relying on T-Nuts can do it's own thing! But the binding is a bit maddening. All the set screws for the z and chrome rods have been loosened at the top. I've been using a digital caliper to even out the bed, measuring at the z-rod (between the collar and brass segment)....then trying to home, over and over...one side binds. Ahhh

Problem 3 - Melamine. I suspect the bed is warping a bit. We're also in the midst of a very humid stretch of weather. There's a dehumidifier running 24/7 nearby....but regardless, I think an aluminum bed would work better.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by Xeno » July 20th, 2017, 2:11 pm

great to hear about the homing :) but weird.

for the binding, you can try to completely loosen/remove the top attached parts of the leadscrews , the side rods supply guidance for the bed, and the leadscrew only needs to be connected at the bottom.
that solved it for me.
most if not all leadscrews have a slight wobble from manufacturing (except maybe the very, very expensive ones) this is usually the main reason for binding.

and the weak motors don't help either.

Also did you check the holes in the melanine parts that top and bottom holes aligned on both sides, there were some with badly lasered holes due to an error in the machine.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » July 21st, 2017, 2:24 pm

The holes seem ok but I was advised to do what you mentioned...remove the leadscrew set screws and loosen the collar set screw and screws attaching to the upper plate

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » July 24th, 2017, 8:46 am

I'm wondering...

The build volume...could the glass go to the edges of the heated bed?

Here's my thinking...I could use Ultimaker 2+ bed clips and secure the glass to the bed. However the 12 x 12 glass I bought doesn't reach each corner...it's a bit short. I wonder if I got a slightly bigger piece of glass if the print head would reach those extra sections?

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » July 31st, 2017, 9:53 pm

Well a few things....

First, a good test print after a few tweaks



I honestly expected the problems of this build to be the Titan Aero config and the pancake motor, since many had issues with voltage, heat and that sort of thing. So far, none of those issues on the mentioned systems.

The glass being smaller than the build plate is annoying. Having to use binder office clips or something else to secure it to the heated bed a hassle.

I ordered a mirror to match the size of the heated bed (326mm square). I called the glass company and the young lady said they only did inches and fractions of 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4. (So the next time I sneer at the use of the metric system, remind me of this) I was a little disappointed I can't get something that's an exact match. Still, closer than it is now (3/4 inch on each side)

I gave up on the glue stick and went with my trusted and true diluted PVA method that GR5 has made popular. That was the key to my test prints. Glue stick wasn't enough or just didn't want to work.

The MOSFET is working very well. I see posts about slow bed heatup times but honestly, mine heats up about as fast as the Ultimaker 2 does

I haven't dared tighten up the upper rod collars on the chrome rods. I am pretty sure the binding is cured but I will check that out later.

I am still holding out for a good Titan Aero part cooling fan. A gent on the Facebook group is working on a modified "fang" type design that places a 40 mm fan above the printer head and two tubes feed cooling air to the nozzle. All the other designs hang off the sides or back, hitting the sides of the print area.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by bwaslo » August 1st, 2017, 2:26 am

My cooler design sits a 50mm blower fan in the back and doesn't get near hitting anything, I can cover the entire print area, not a mm lost.
(in case you don't know this one, it's at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2405912).
Some people have had problems slicing parts of it, but Slic3r (and apparently Cura) do ok with it. The slicing issue is because the 'design' of the duct part is an amalgam of several other designs hacked together via Meshmixer. But it's been working like a charm on my FT-5, very rigid and stable and keeps air on the work and not on the heater block.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by LePaul » August 1st, 2017, 10:56 am

I'm having a devil of a time printing a good duct without supports
And my efforts to make one out of polycarbonate are not going very well.

I could use nGen or even XT-CF20 (carbon fiber) since we need the heat tolerance.

I'm leery of messing with the pancake screws and taking apart the print head.

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Re: Paul's FT-5 Build

Post by bwaslo » August 2nd, 2017, 1:12 am

Well, if you're using the Aero, you've put the print head together already, so why the leeriness? For that matter, the original FT-5 extruder required you to take out the same (position) two screws in back to mount it's motor to the extruder shuttle. It's just a screw, nothing but a twist of a screwdriver, and the other two screws still stay on while messing with them. There's really zero drama or chance of the motor innards getting scattered.

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