3DP-11-ATL Under Extruding

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Joined: August 18th, 2017, 11:43 am

3DP-11-ATL Under Extruding

Post by jkb » August 18th, 2017, 12:08 pm

My Hictop 3DP-11-ATL seems to be chronically under extruding. When I remove the Bowden tube (I've replaced the original direct drive with a Bowden), instruct the extruder to extrude 100mm, and measure the result where it exits the extruder, I measure 98mm. This, of course, is easily adjusted for in the firmware. But when I reconnect the Bowden tube, heat up the hot end, and extrude another 100mm, I only measure about 60mm (from where the filament enters the extruder). Printed parts show all the signs of under extrusion.

The extruder is not skipping--the noise it makes when skipping is relatively loud, and I hear none of that. There are noticeable teeth marks on the filament as it exits the extruder, so the gear is getting a decent bite, but there is no sign of grinding or filament dust clogging the gear.

I thought maybe the stepper voltage was too low, which would logically extrude the proper amount with no load, but under extrude with the load of pushing the filament through the nozzle. Hictop recommends a voltage at the extruder potentiometer of 0.8 volts, and mine was already at about 0.9 volts. I tried reducing it to 0.8, and increasing it to 1.0, with no change--it still extrudes 60mm.

I've also installed a new (clean) nozzle and heat break. No change.

I'm stumped. What am I missing?

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Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
Location: Washington
3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12

Re: 3DP-11-ATL Under Extruding

Post by Roberts_Clif » August 18th, 2017, 9:52 pm

Before you go making adjustments there are several things you will need to know about your Hictop.
The Original Power Cord is too small I used an old 3 Prong Computer Power cord as a replacement.
The Wires supplying Power from the Power supply to the Main Controller PCB are too small.
I used a DC power cord cable for Motorola Mobile GM340 30Amp 20 foot had in my scrap box Cost nothing.

Before I made the Wiring changes I could not keep any alignment, the steppers would skip steps make loud noises and get hot even after current adjustments. Power on the Controller could never keep the a constant 12.6volts, every one told me the power supply was defective and to replace it with a 24Volt. Still have the original power supply works fine after wire change, the steppers being in parallel and of such low quality did not stand a chance fighting each other for positioning under these conditions. ("With steppers disabled. Move the nozzle over beds right side then adjust the right Z_Axis lead screw for nozzle height, you can watch the left Z_Axis lead lead screw turn unless you hold it in place."),

Before changing power wires.
My 12 Volt Hictop 3DP11 Stepper current settings X, Y, E0, E1 are 0.936 and Z is 1.236.

After changing power wires. (a long time after because I forgot to log the new current readings)
My 12 Volt Hictop 3DP11stepper current settings X, Y, E0, E1 are 0.695 and ("Z is 1.396 Not Hictop Steppers motors") 1 - Z Axis stepper died.
New 3D Printer.
My 24 Volt Hictop 3DP12 stepper current settings X, Y, E0, E1 are 0.398 and Z is .505

Have made many changes read my other posts.
Electronics Technician / Computer Programmer

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