3D Printing Forum

The red mount looks like what I found on Thingiverse. I just finished printing it last night and will mount it up this weekend.

Let us know how the new sensor compares.

GrueMaster wrote:Can you post pictures of your new mount in action? I downloaded the STL files and want to compare them with two I found on Thingiverse.

I have install the New Bottom Bearing mount sensor, At this time I did not install with the X-Axis PLA Bearings.
you may have noticed the sensor was moved to the side of the Mount directly behind the nozzle, the Distance is 25mm.

Attaching to bottom bearing mount with 2 - 3mm X 30mm screws and 3mm nut.
A 3mm x 51mm - and a thumb screw as an adjuster. I found a spring in my junk box. a little big but filed the mount until it fit.

When I install the Bearing incorporated sensor Mount the sensor Distance will be 15mm behind the Nozzle.
You can see in the middle image I have PLA Bearings that work Extremely well.

Other than a manually re-leveling the bed it went quite smoothly.
Added STL for Newest Mount design see below.

For TL-W3M sensors NOTE: This is a thingiverse Mount I modified by henryarnold
HicTop Prusa i3 Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Mount

Gah! Just snapped my tap while tapping out the bottom threads on the bearing. Was actually pulling the tap out. Snapped just barely above the surface.

What was the material and size of tap?

Material is whatever the X axis bearing blocks are made of (aluminum?), and the tap was a 4MM .70 pitch. I already disassembled the X axis and swapped that block with one of the 2 upper blocks. Didn't fix the issue, but gets me closer to up and running again. I ended up mounting the leveler to the back of the block per instructions, except I am using 2 M3 screws and nuts with blue threadlock. That works great and it only took me 4 minutes (with the 1.1.0-RC8 firmware) to dial in the autolevel sensor.

Depending on the material you need to back the tap every now and then ie 1 turn going in and then back it 1/2 turn to break the scarf chip etc, don't forget to use a little lubrication, paraffin is good for aluminium, although WD40 works too.
Even do this with plastic as you slowly work the tap through as the material can melt and rebond behind the tap.