[SOLVED] - HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
[SOLVED] - HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
Hi all, I’ve just received for Christmas my Hictop i3 Prusa. After the built and first checks it seems to be fine.
I’ve read various topic on how to calibrate the distance between extruder and hot plate, I’ve tried all of them (last but not least
When I try to print something, when it comes to the center of the plate to start print, the extruder puts out filament but it wraps around itself and does not stand on plate.
The calibration according to the video seems fine to me, the extruder nearly touches the plate, but I can’t print anything.
I’m really new in 3d printing, any hint and suggestion would be very appreciated
I’ve read various topic on how to calibrate the distance between extruder and hot plate, I’ve tried all of them (last but not least
When I try to print something, when it comes to the center of the plate to start print, the extruder puts out filament but it wraps around itself and does not stand on plate.
The calibration according to the video seems fine to me, the extruder nearly touches the plate, but I can’t print anything.
I’m really new in 3d printing, any hint and suggestion would be very appreciated
Last edited by pargilo on February 20th, 2017, 10:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
Its probably your bed is bowed down in the middle. You can get a piece of glass to print on, or if you willing and able to mess with firmware you can enable mesh bed leveling. You could also contact Hictop and see what they can do. I had been using mesh bed leveling, but have since added the autolevel sensor, (did not buy it from Hictop but they do sell one).
Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
Sounds strange but it can be. I'm going to contact them and in the meanwhile tonight I'm going to check with a carpenter's square.
In case I can put something below to realign it
In case I can put something below to realign it
Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
I've just checked and everything seems to be plain
Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
If its flat, then you might just be too far still. A piece of paper should slide under the nozzle with a little resistance, raise the nozzle, then put down the paper, then lower the nozzle, and adjust the wingnut until the paper has some slight resistance.
Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
I've just uploaded a video of the issue:
- LePaul
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Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
That looks too high off the build plate to me (tough lighting tho)
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Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
Can I borrow this topic too?
I have similiar problem.
I have calibrated same as OP and when i put it to homing it homes nicely on middle and there is just right amout of room.
BUT when I start to print, it lifts itself upwards and Z says on screen 0.3 and I dont have any clue how to change that or where does it even get that "0.3" suddenly on screen?
I have the chucks firmware modded without autolevel now(sensor is too high voltage to be used with this)
I have similiar problem.
I have calibrated same as OP and when i put it to homing it homes nicely on middle and there is just right amout of room.
BUT when I start to print, it lifts itself upwards and Z says on screen 0.3 and I dont have any clue how to change that or where does it even get that "0.3" suddenly on screen?
I have the chucks firmware modded without autolevel now(sensor is too high voltage to be used with this)
Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
I suspect your bed is either not level at all or you're just not low enough, also don't bother trying to print directly on the aluminium print bed. Get some Scotch blue painters tape.
Re: HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
Hi all, I've solved the issue with Hictop by email: it was missing a tape on the bed
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Re: [SOLVED] - HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
I suspect most of these aluminum beds are bowed. Mine is clearly more concave towards the front than the back, and there are many reports of this. A lot of this is probably because the aluminum is pretty thin and cheap. After autoleveling, this caused everything on the left side of my bed to be squashed badly and everything on the extreme right being slightly too high. Depending on when they send me a new power supply (just blew up) I'll be testing out a new firmware with the bilinear auto leveling. I'm also considering how to get the sensor closer to the hotend so the measurements are more accurate. Using the adjustable sensor mounts found on Thingiverse, my sensor is a whopping 63 mm from the hot end (also, the probe offsets in the distributed firmware for the 3DP12/3DP-11-ATL are way off).
- Chaco
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Re: [SOLVED] - HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
the stock location for their sensor on the back of the carriage is garbage... i hated it
what good is it to read the bed location 70mm away from the actual nozzle, when the bed is bowed....
so yea i made my own carriage, and now i am 30mm on the Z from the nozzle... i get now a 12point bed level prior to prints and get good prints all the time
what good is it to read the bed location 70mm away from the actual nozzle, when the bed is bowed....
so yea i made my own carriage, and now i am 30mm on the Z from the nozzle... i get now a 12point bed level prior to prints and get good prints all the time
- Roberts_Clif
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Re: [SOLVED] - HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
I have had bearings problems from day one and the replacement bearings sent were no better.
Printed thingiverse SC8_Bushing.stl bearings on the Y axis, just now starting work on the X Axis.
Included attachments of modified mount for the Front facing Proximity sensors with adjustable height.
Replacing the SN04-N sensor with a smaller one that I will mounted under the X axis bottom bearing, the SUNX GL-12F x 10 Proximity Sensor. The 7.1 X 12 X 27.4mm Dimensions make it easily mountable under the X axis bottom bearing attached to the rear of the Bearing with 10mm adjustable height limit, with influence of surrounding metal at a mere 7mm and sensing direction on the shortest dimension I should be able to mount 20mm behind nozzle. By far I believe this style senor is the best for the Hictop Aluminum 3D Printer.
Other Sensors to think about be sure to get correct Sensors for your 3D printer.
4mm sensors
TL-W5MC2, GX-F12A this is suggested sunxsensor replacement sensor.
2.5mm sensors
GX-F8A
Printed thingiverse SC8_Bushing.stl bearings on the Y axis, just now starting work on the X Axis.
Included attachments of modified mount for the Front facing Proximity sensors with adjustable height.
Replacing the SN04-N sensor with a smaller one that I will mounted under the X axis bottom bearing, the SUNX GL-12F x 10 Proximity Sensor. The 7.1 X 12 X 27.4mm Dimensions make it easily mountable under the X axis bottom bearing attached to the rear of the Bearing with 10mm adjustable height limit, with influence of surrounding metal at a mere 7mm and sensing direction on the shortest dimension I should be able to mount 20mm behind nozzle. By far I believe this style senor is the best for the Hictop Aluminum 3D Printer.
Other Sensors to think about be sure to get correct Sensors for your 3D printer.
4mm sensors
TL-W5MC2, GX-F12A this is suggested sunxsensor replacement sensor.
2.5mm sensors
GX-F8A
- Attachments
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- sensor_mount.stl
- (32.89 KiB) Downloaded 902 times
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- Sliding connector.stl
- (25.18 KiB) Downloaded 776 times
Last edited by Roberts_Clif on March 9th, 2018, 10:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- GrueMaster
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Re: [SOLVED] - HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
Can you post pictures of your new mount in action? I downloaded the STL files and want to compare them with two I found on Thingiverse.
- Roberts_Clif
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Re: [SOLVED] - HICTOP I3 CALIBRATION ISSUE
Have not mounted it yet, but I took a Picture Of what I have (New Mount is White).GrueMaster wrote:Can you post pictures of your new mount in action? I downloaded the STL files and want to compare them with two I found on Thingiverse.
You can see that the New sensor will have a closer proximity to the nozzle.
Please Note: that the signal for the TL-W3M (NC Contacts) needs to not be inverted (false) in the software.
Where the software for the SN-04N (NO Contacts) is inverted (true).
Have tested the sensor having a 3mm detection should work after calibrating the sensor height.
After Adjustments and calculating center of the sensor will be behind 15mm.
NOTE: This is a thingiverse Mount I modified by henryarnold
HicTop Prusa i3 Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Mount
Last edited by Roberts_Clif on April 13th, 2017, 2:02 pm, edited 15 times in total.