HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Have a problem or question, suggested links/information/FAQ's? Post it here
Post Reply
guti
Reactions:
Posts: 3
Joined: August 24th, 2016, 11:16 am
Location: Tel Aviv
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Prusa i3 3DP-18
Contact:

HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Post by guti » August 30th, 2016, 4:55 am

Hey guys!

Got my HICTOP 3DP-18 and I wanted to share my build experience and some of the problems I stumbled upon. I reached a state where the printer seems to be working technically (all axis are moving, extruder and heated bed are heating correctly, fans are working and the filament is being extruded. Nothing is calibrated so I can't really print yet.

Main points I took from the build process:
  • Missing washers for M3 and M8 screws - especially important for the Y-Axis connecting threaded rods, the pressure can break the acrylic frame
  • I had a really tough time making the Y-Axis belt go straight without rolling over to the sides of the bearing and touching the bearing holder, I feel that the structure is not that solid and that I'm going to have to continue calibrating it.
  • The ball linear bearings are shitty - balls just started to drop when I moved them a bit. I actually bought high-quality LM8UU bearings but the printer uses a different model.
  • The end-stop cables are short and the connectors are 2-PIN JST when the motherboard connectors are 3-PIN JST - I had to try and connect them several times until I got it right (will upload motherboard pictures later)
  • I couldn't mount the filament monitor together with the filament holder, the holes in the frame are overlapping (or I might be missing something). Because the original firmware comes with the monitor enabled if you don't connect it you get an error that filament is missing, I uploaded Chip's modified code without that feature.
  • It was hard to load the filament, I had to disconnect the extruder fan and guide the filament into the hot-end by visually looking at it. I connected the fan again with the filament already loaded.
Seems like the auto PID tuning values from Chip's configuration aren't optimal for this model, I ran PID Autotune and after uploading it the printer heats correctly most of the time but fails every once in a while, will try to use Ultimaker default values and see how it goes.

Will keep this thread updated with calibration progress.

Marlin Modified Source (Based on Chip's work)

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Last edited by guti on August 30th, 2016, 7:35 am, edited 1 time in total.

guti
Reactions:
Posts: 3
Joined: August 24th, 2016, 11:16 am
Location: Tel Aviv
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Prusa i3 3DP-18
Contact:

Re: HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Post by guti » August 30th, 2016, 7:15 am

Including the links to the documentation and source code for the printer (got the links from HICTOP):
Documentation + Software
Source Code

As always I highly suggest to think twice before running any .exe downloaded from a public Google Drive :) (I'm using a Mac)

User avatar
LePaul
Reactions:
Posts: 2673
Joined: February 7th, 2016, 10:26 pm
Location: Bangor, Maine USA
3D Printer(s): Ultimaker 2+, Folger Tech FT-5
Contact:

Re: HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Post by LePaul » August 30th, 2016, 9:09 am

Neat looking build!

User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Post by Chip Luck » November 12th, 2016, 7:21 am

Good luck with Hictop supplied source code. Never had any luck with it, reason I used Marlin from Github. Lot of the issues with your build, I can relate but overcame it. Good luck!

GKNY
Reactions:
Posts: 1
Joined: December 26th, 2016, 2:49 pm
3D Printer(s): HICKTOP 3DP-18

Re: HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Post by GKNY » December 26th, 2016, 2:54 pm

Hey Guti,

Did you ever get new bearings or a new power supply. I have the 3DP-18 on order and it has not arrived yet but I am trying to do as much research about the build prior to it arriving. I purchased the auto level sensor but am now thinking about the bearings and PS as mentioned by you and Chip. Any suggestions as to size/model? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Want this to go as smooth as possible.

Thanks again,
GKNY

rcabor
Reactions:
Posts: 11
Joined: June 10th, 2016, 8:38 am

Re: HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Post by rcabor » December 28th, 2016, 8:12 am

I have the same printer. I have the power supply and mainboard swapped compared to you, and I found the endstops cables had plenty of room.

NotMyMonkeys
Reactions:
Posts: 1
Joined: January 30th, 2017, 10:53 am

Re: HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Post by NotMyMonkeys » January 30th, 2017, 10:56 am

Have this printer coming and will try to assemble between work and family stuff over the next two weeks. Have you finished your build and have everything calibrated?

User avatar
Roberts_Clif
Reactions:
Posts: 115
Joined: March 25th, 2017, 8:17 am
Location: Washington
3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP11/12

Re: HICTOP 3DP-18 Build Experience

Post by Roberts_Clif » July 8th, 2017, 12:12 pm

guti wrote:
August 30th, 2016, 4:55 am
  • I had a really tough time making the Y-Axis belt go straight without rolling over to the sides of the bearing and touching the bearing holder, I feel that the structure is not that solid and that I'm going to have to continue calibrating it.
  • I couldn't mount the filament monitor together with the filament holder, the holes in the frame are overlapping (or I might be missing something). Because the original firmware comes with the monitor enabled if you don't connect it you get an error that filament is missing, I uploaded Chip's modified code without that feature.
  • It was hard to load the filament, I had to disconnect the extruder fan and guide the filament into the hot-end by visually looking at it. I connected the fan again with the filament already loaded.

I Have a 3DP11 and 12
I also had troubles aligning the Y axis, Then I found these MF128ZZ 8 X 12 X 3.5 Flanged Bearings. They are half width bearings, the Belt will run between the Flanges of two placed with the Flanges facing outwards on the 8MM bolt. Now the belt never rubs the Y Axis frame, same Ideal as the X_Axis belt assembly.



MF128ZZ.jpg

Could not get my filament monitor to work tried every pin re-flashed every option everyone suggested, until I decided try to wire it into the unused X_Max pin and Connector and can't remember where I read it to thank them.

//#ifndef X_MAX_PIN
//#define X_MAX_PIN 2
//#endif

// define digital pin 4 for the filament runout sensor. Use the RAMPS 1.4 digital input 4 on the servos connector
// #define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 4
// define X_MAX_PIN 2 for the filament runout sensor.
#define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 2

Filament is definitely fun to load on this style Extruder. I have to straighten the filament then hold it perfectly straight above like i'am threading a needle. Thought about using a pencil sharpener to give the Filament a point.

Post Reply

Return to “General Questions”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Roberts_Clif and 1 guest