Defeating the ABS curse.

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Tech Gorilla
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Defeating the ABS curse.

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 22nd, 2019, 9:16 pm

So then...I am printing the BosnianBill brand new LockLab lock pinning tray that he just designed. It covers more of the print bed than any other print I have tried. I used my ABS juice I made, and went for broke. As you can see, I am on the second layer and probably out of the "It's not gonna stick" red zone. I'm now really tossed between PETG and ABS. This is with NO enclosure BTW.
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GrueMaster
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Re: Defeating the ABS curse.

Post by GrueMaster » March 22nd, 2019, 9:54 pm

Tech Gorilla wrote:
March 22nd, 2019, 9:16 pm
As you can see, I am on the second layer and probably out of the "It's not gonna stick" red zone.
Shhh, don't jinx it. I've had prints come up 40 layers into the print, and that's with PLA (the easy stuff).

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Re: Defeating the ABS curse.

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 22nd, 2019, 10:24 pm

:-) :-o

I'm astounded how well the ABS juice sticks, and how a 20 degree drop in bed temp pulls the whole mess of clean as a whistle!

PS, I got a 1mm sheet of 12"x12" PEI sheet in for the Hictop today. I plan to hook the level sensor up to 24vdc on Sunday so I can level through the PEI. it's going right on the aluminum.
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Defeating the ABS curse.

Post by Roberts_Clif » March 22nd, 2019, 10:47 pm

I have both SN04-N and my new TL-W3MC2 connected to the 5V line without any problems.
The SN04-N is a 4mm proximity sensor and the TL-W3MC2 is a 3mm proximity sensor.

I have had a 1mm build surface sheet on for over 2 years.
Have never had a problem with the Proximity sensors finding my aluminum bed while using the 5vdc power source.
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Re: Defeating the ABS curse.

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 22nd, 2019, 11:01 pm

Roberts_Clif wrote:
March 22nd, 2019, 10:47 pm
I have had a 1mm build surface sheet on for over 2 years.
Have never had a problem with the Proximity sensors finding my aluminum bed while using the 5vdc power source.

You don't say, eh? Originally, I cut a sheet of glass for the bed, but I just decided to put the PEI direct on the bed. If I don't have to monkey (gorilla as it were) with the sensor, I would prefer that. I really do need to adjust the vrefs though because the motors are dead cold even hours in to a print. My Ender is adjust per the specs, and the motors run comfortably warm. Not enough to burn, but warm.
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Re: Defeating the ABS curse.

Post by Roberts_Clif » March 23rd, 2019, 8:07 am

Tech Gorilla wrote:
March 22nd, 2019, 11:01 pm

I really do need to adjust the vrefs though because the motors are dead cold even hours in to a print.
My Ender is adjust per the specs, and the motors run comfortably warm. Not enough to burn, but warm.
I thought this is what we wanted after a super long print my steppers are warm and not hot either.
For my Hictop controller found this video that showed stepper current adjustments. I set these and worked for a long time.
Then someone informed me that I was running them too high so I lowered them to their suggested levels,
Only to create so many problems that this was telling me to return to the originals. Which i did and working great again.
Learn from my mistakes if it is working leave it alone, if you must then take precautions.

Video I watched for stepper motor settings for My Hictop Controller.



Be careful adjusting the V-Ref use a non-conductive screwdriver, or one mistake can short the stepper motor driver.
Use a Philmore 63-8276 flat blade alignment tool or a Ceramic Screwdriver Tool Anti static.

Currently have two DOA controllers one was caused by the Power fluctivation blowing the Power Supply
the other I shorted measuring the V-Ref rendering it DOA, So Please be careful.

https://gzhls.at/blob/ldb/f/7/9/4/5c016 ... 96331a.pdf
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Re: Defeating the ABS curse.

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 24th, 2019, 11:58 am

Be careful adjusting the V-Ref use a non-conductive screwdriver, or one mistake can short the stepper motor driver.
Use a Philmore 63-8276 flat blade alignment tool or a Ceramic Screwdriver Tool Anti static.
I am sure this will make you cringe based on your reply and your profession. When I set the vrefs on my Ender (MKS Gen L board,) I clipped the meter lead to my starrett jewlers screw driver and measured the vref live while tweaking the pot. I had the board on an anti-static mat and powered from an isolated bench power supply on a variac.

Full disclosure - I was an ET in the military and have worked in electronics for the better part of my life.

To anyone reading this comment Please do not do what I did, but please follow all of the precautions that the above poster outlined! Specifically this:
Be careful adjusting the V-Ref use a non-conductive screwdriver, or one mistake can short the stepper motor driver.
Use a Philmore 63-8276 flat blade alignment tool or a Ceramic Screwdriver Tool Anti static.
Tech Gorilla - Laying down molten plastic since 11/18.

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