Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

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Busby
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Busby » February 9th, 2019, 8:22 pm

I couldn't help myself and started to rebuild as much as I can whilst waiting for the other parts to arrive and makesure that everything is squared up correctly. Replaced all the bearings with Drylin bearings apart from the new z-axis ones.

Is it possible to load your marlin firmware with the SN04 sensor not being plugged in yet and still use the printer so I can print out the upgrade parts like the case and y-axis stop mount etc ?

If it is possible where can I download it from as I can't seem to find a download area on the forum unless I am being totally blind.

The only things I have changed so far is the bearings and put the Z-axis lead screw upgrade from hictop on, and changed out the heated bed cable to better silicone wire.

If there is anything that you would recommend doing before I install the new firmware and printing out the new parts please let me know. I don't want to try and home the printer yet without the new firmware just incase of something crashing.

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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Roberts_Clif » February 9th, 2019, 10:16 pm

Busby wrote:
February 9th, 2019, 8:22 pm
Is it possible to load your marlin firmware with the SN04 sensor not being plugged in yet and still use the printer so I can print out the upgrade parts like the case and y-axis stop mount etc ?
Yes. if you install the original mechanical end-stop switch.
Busby wrote:
February 9th, 2019, 8:22 pm
If it is possible where can I download it from as I can't seem to find a download area on the forum unless I am being totally blind.
The last version I had with a SN04-N was from Chip Luck on this Thread.
http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=298

The Marlin 1.1.x versions I have are setup for setup for Filament run-out Sensors and TL-W3MC2 Proximity Sensors.
You tell me what Version Marlin you want.

Now to be sure that I get this correct The 3DP11 has an 1.25mm x 8mm all thread lead-screw.
We can do this one of two ways.
I can make all changes. and Post the updated version to my Google Drive.
OR
I can upload my 3D Printers configured Marlin version, to a google Drive as is and below are the configuration changes you need to change.
Example Configuration.h
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true for SN-04N False for TL-W3MC2.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true for SN-04-N False for Runout Sensor
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to same logic as "Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING".

// Z Axis 3200, / 1.25m pitch leadscrew = 200*16 /1.25 = 2560 :: (STEPS_PER_REVOLUTION_Z / PITCH_OF_Z_ROD)
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 2560, 94.4962144 } // 2560 for 3DP11
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 150, 150, 5, 25 } // Stock Settings
For SN04-N
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // 10 For SN04-N and 0 for for TL-W3MC2
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 63 // 63 For SN04-N and 25 for for TL-W3MC2

#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20 // 10 For SN04-N and 20 for for TL-W3MC2
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200 // 205 For SN04-N and 200 for for TL-W3MC2
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 25 // 63 For SN04-N and 25 for for TL-W3MC2
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 260 // 245 For SN04-N and 260 for for TL-W3MC2

Disable
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
Example pins_RAMPS.h
#define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 2 // Normal Setting 4 My Filament Runout Sensor 2
Busby wrote:
February 9th, 2019, 8:22 pm
If there is anything that you would recommend doing before I install the new firmware and printing out the new parts please let me know. I don't want to try and home the printer yet without the new firmware just incase of something crashing.
I had many nozzle crashes in the beginning, never started a print without my hand on the power switch,
Oh! You need a power switch this hard wired power cord is for the birds.
I dissembled a bad ATX supply took the Power cord connector and used in a 3D Printed Power Supply connection Cover.
Power Supply Case.jpg

You need wire large enough from the power supply to the controller, the stock wire is nowhere large enough.
The 2 wire Power Cord Supplied is another wire that is inadequate, use an old 3 wire Computer power cord.
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Busby
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Busby » February 10th, 2019, 6:03 am

I have all the original mechanical end-stop switches in the original places at the moment.

I don't have a filament run-out sensor, as for the all thread lead-screws that I have installed I measured between the threads using a digital vernier caliper and it was 2mm and it has 4 threads. The specifications on the hictop website are below along with the upgrade kit link if this helps.

Specifications:
Material: Stainless steel lead screw, copper nut
Screw diameter: 8mm
Length: 295 mm
Screw spacing: 2 mm
Lead of thread: 8 mm

https://www.hic3dprinter.com/collection ... 3d-printer

I have Arduino 1.8.8 installed & ready, As for what version of Marlin to use I will use whichever version you think would be best. I did read this morning after looking at the link you gave me that you are starting to play with version 2.0 so I will use whatever you suggest, Apologies for not realising that the software was there, think I need to get a bit more sleep :-)

I will definitely do the power cord and switch upgrade too thanks for the suggestion. would using 12 AWG wire be good enough from the motherboard to the power supply ?

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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Roberts_Clif » February 10th, 2019, 9:43 am

That would mean then that you have a T8-8 - 4 start 8mm lead-screw or

// Z Axis 3200, / 8m pitch leadscrew = 200*16 /8 = 400 :: (STEPS_PER_REVOLUTION_Z / PITCH_OF_Z_ROD)
//
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 94.4962144 }
Busby wrote:
February 10th, 2019, 6:03 am
I will definitely do the power cord and switch upgrade too thanks for the suggestion. would using 12 AWG wire be good enough from the motherboard to the power supply ?
12 or 24 volt power supply
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Roberts_Clif » February 10th, 2019, 10:42 am

I have a shareable link for you. This the the Bug fixed version of Marlin 1.1.9.
Marlin-1.1.9BF_Busby.zip
I took the liberty of changing theses lines, you should change them to what you want.
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(Busby)" // Who made the changes.
#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "Busby"

This is per-configured to to the SN04-N Proximity Sensor
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // 10 For SN04-N and 0 for for TL-W3MC2
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 63 // 63 For SN04-N and 25 for for TL-W3MC2
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.5 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]

#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR

#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10 // 10 For SN04-N and 20 for for TL-W3MC2
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 205 // 205 For SN04-N and 200 for for TL-W3MC2
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 63 // 63 For SN04-N and 25 for for TL-W3MC2
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 245 // 245 For SN04-N and 260 for for TL-W3MC2

#define Z_SAFE_HOMING

I also have Hictop Web Address and HIctop Firmware web address

You should download your 3D Printers original Firmware hex file for a backup, who knows you way not like Marin's firmware.

This Firmware I have complied on Arduino 1.8.8
Sketch uses 140278 bytes (55%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253952 bytes.
Global variables use 4729 bytes (57%) of dynamic memory, leaving 3463 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8192 bytes.

I would go through every line in configuration.h, configuration_adv.h and pins_RAMPS.h to get familiar with them.
I changed this line from 190 to 185 because of my filament run-out sensor space.
#define Z_MAX_POS 185

I also use Notepad ++ and WinMerge these are two free programs that everyone should have in there utilities folder.
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Busby » February 10th, 2019, 3:22 pm

Thank you very much for the files I changed the z-stop and then complied it and it seems to be working but when I am printing the stepper motors seem to be able to get overloaded and stop causing the print to start stepping almost the same as a belt slipping but I know it is not the belts as the tension on them is perfect and if I move a axis like Z and place my index finger on the Z threaded rod coupler with very little pressure it will cause it to stall.

Is it possible to change the voltage in one of the firmware files as I have never changed any of the voltages on the control board and I have never seen it do it before.

From what I did let it print of the test cube on the 1st 3 layers :-D it has never looked so nice and precise, I can't wait to see how well it will print when it is running smoothly :)

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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Roberts_Clif » February 10th, 2019, 8:22 pm

I would measure the Stepper motor current. Now I have given you a video too watch.
Before you adjust the V-Ref voltage measure them write them down on a piece of paper and post them too me.

Here is a You-tube Video

Now before you adjust I have different settings for V-Ref.
If you have www.goldenmotors.cn steppers 42HD4027-01 and 42HD2037-01 Adjust the current to .700 for X,Y, E0 and E1
Z-Axis steppers remain the same as video.

Max www.goldenmotors.cn steppers is 1.2 do not exceed this number on your steppers.
If your steppers get hot during normal operation reduce V-Ref.

If you have any other stepper motors post the part number will look them up
My 3DP11 came with golden motor steppers and the 3DP12 came with some other date code only stamped stepper motors.
Which I determined are a lower torque stepper with a lower V-Ref of .500.

I purchased both my 3D Printer's used as the previous owners could not get them assembled or 3D Printing the way they expected.
So who knows why one did not come with the manufacturers approved stepper motors.
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Busby » February 11th, 2019, 7:00 am

Mine have the golden motors and the website doesn't show the exact model numbers and I am glad that you gave me the information as the ones that have the same model number and manufacturer on Ali Express show the voltages to be

● Number of phase:2
● Step Angle:1.8°
● Holding Torque:400mN.m
● Rated voltage:3.3V
● Rated current:1.5A

I will have a check when I get home from work tonight and let you know what everything was set at and do a new test print to see how things go.

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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Busby » February 11th, 2019, 6:36 pm

Checked all the voltages which were
X 0.88
Y 0.88
Z 1.2
E0 0.86
E1 0.89

I have set the voltages to what they were meant to be and set the Z to 1.07 as the video said 1 - 1.1

I also re-tensioned the Y - Axis belt just to be double sure that it was tight enough and checked all the drive cogs were definitely tight which they were.

I have tried to do another test print but I am getting layer shifting still, I can't seem to work out why it is happening for the life of me.
20190211_233023.jpg
Layer Shifting
As you can see from 2 different prints it is not doing it at a certain height so I am a bit confused as to what to do now. The only thing I changed on the Y -Axis was the bearings which I replaced from old rattling hictop standard ones to the igus drylin RJ4P-01-08 which I have in the X-Axis too and they are not causing any layer shifting on that axis.

If you have any suggestions on what to do I would be very grateful.

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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Roberts_Clif » February 11th, 2019, 7:39 pm

Take a Photo of the E- Stepper from the right side and a photo of one of the Z Steppers from the bottom and Post.

You should have plenty of torque as not to easily stop the stepper in motion or turn the stepper while holding torque.
Do not get me wrong you can stop it and turn it though is should not real easily done you should feel the torque.
HICTOP Nema 17 Stepper Motor Bipolar 1.5A 57oz.in 500mN.m
On Hictop Web Page are 42HD6021-03 1.5A 57oz.in 500mN.m
My 3DP11 are 42HD4027-01 56oz.in 400mN.m Min X,Y,E and 42HD2037-01 280mN.m Min for Z
Have no ideal what are on my 3DP12 as they only have date codes. My Best Guess is ~46oz.in. 900ma
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Busby » February 12th, 2019, 2:25 am

When the motors are engaged I cannot move them which makes me believe that the belts are tight enough and not slipping and that the motors are holding ok.

Here are the 2 photos that you requested.
Attachments
20190212_070747.jpg
20190212_070824.jpg

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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Roberts_Clif » February 12th, 2019, 7:01 am

Yes your numbers are looking the same as the numbers on my 3D Printer and you have exactly the same stepper motors.

Ok we need to determine why you are getting layer shifting,

Another Web page for you to read

https://reprap.org/wiki/Shifted_layers
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Busby » February 12th, 2019, 3:18 pm

Thanks for the link for the information.

I am going to change out the bed bearings for proper SKF ones and also change all of the belts and pulleys just to be sure. I have also bought some belt tensioner springs to see if that will help with getting the tensions right.

If after changing all of these bits and it doesn't work I will be at a total loss as what could be causing it.

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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Roberts_Clif » February 12th, 2019, 3:33 pm

I designed a Hictop Y Axis adjustable belt holder attached. It uses two of the Flanged bearings below only need to screw in a small bolt.
MF128ZZ.jpg
Attachments
Hictop Y Axis adjustable.stl
(52.04 KiB) Downloaded 3 times
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Re: Need a bit of help deciding on upgrade or new

Post by Roberts_Clif » February 15th, 2019, 9:34 am

Busby wrote:
February 12th, 2019, 3:18 pm

I have also bought some belt tensioner springs to see if that will help with getting the tensions right.
I have heard that the Belt tensioner springs have a way of introducing elasticity where you don‘t want it.
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