Hic 3DP-08 Marlin 1.1.0 RC8

Software and Firmware Discussion - related to source code, firmware updates, etc.
hcbrenner
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-12

Re: Hic 3DP-08 Marlin 1.1.0 RC8

Post by hcbrenner »

Away from my file right now, but there is really not much to do - literally you only touch a few lines. Just redefine the thermistor, update max/min temps, input auto tune results. Follow the E3D instructions exactly and you will be successful, https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6
The only guidance not included at the E3D link was related to the Marlin auto tune feature. I had to reduce my max PID current to allow successfully auto tune.... at full blast you will trip the over temp failure protection.
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Chaco
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Re: Hic 3DP-08 Marlin 1.1.0 RC8

Post by Chaco »

i have E3Dv6s on both my Hictop and my HyperCube... my retraction is 4-6mm depending on the filament, and never had a jam due to it. I think your too hot or having some heat creep
hcbrenner
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Re: Hic 3DP-08 Marlin 1.1.0 RC8

Post by hcbrenner »

I am running the stock screws from Hictop on my 3DP-12. After the firmware update I have grown a nasty case of random Z banding. I know my screws are straight - enough (as I didn't have this problem before the firmware update). So I am thinking that I should reduce the acceleration from 3000 to 2000. Has anyone else experienced this issue with the RC8 updates?
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Hic 3DP-08 Marlin 1.1.0 RC8

Post by Roberts_Clif »

The original Hictop threaded rod was a 8mm 1.25 threaded all-thread screw that does not fit snugly into the coupler.
I placed a single wrap of thin electricians electrical tape around the bottom of the threaded rods then pressed them into the couplers,
this allows the threaded rod to spin true not in a off center circle.

I have never had any problems with acceleration of 3000 with the RC8 updates? I am now using Marlin 1.1.5.
hcbrenner
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Re: Hic 3DP-08 Marlin 1.1.0 RC8

Post by hcbrenner »

Thanks for the advice. There is definitely a bit of wobble in the screw fit. Especially in the top retaining bracket which is a bit over sized. However, the reduction in acceleration definitely had a positive impact to my print quality. Maybe a 60% reduction in random Z banding. I am going to print out one of the many z-wobble stabilizer fixtures that and give it a shot. I will also check the coupling fit as you advise. On a side note, can you give me some advice how to correctly adjust the firmware nozzle offset for the E3Dv6? I notice that it is a bit shifted versus the original Hictop hot end/nozzle.
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