3D Printing Forum

Folks,

Please post your calibration efforts here. There are a lot of resources out there for our printers, and Repraps in general. Anything to share for new users would benift them and all users greatly!

This includes:
- web links
- methods
- issues
- questions
- calibration test objects
- print results, pictues...
- your recommendations, etc.

Cheers,

Chip

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Ill start one.

Recently i upgraded to E3Dv6 and bowden.
Some online resource said to cut filament flush at end of bowden tube, push 100mm, measure extreuded amount with calipers, and adjust your steps until it matched. Well, im here to tell ya, that doesnt work 100%. I was very under extruded.
For example, that method gave me 102 steps on my firmware. (Nema17 of 200s-16ms....with mk7 drive gear/bearing)

Then i came across an article that fixed my under extrusion problem.

Here it is.
take a straw and cut it at 100mm. Using straw, make a mark on filaments at both ends so you have marks denoting 100mm. Line first mark flush with bowden entrance. Bring hot end to normal printing temp. Then send M302 code manually to allow extrusion. Then send using your host program command to extrude 100mm, or G1 E100. Then when done measure the amount it actually extruded. take old steps per mm multiply by amount we ask to extrude then divide by length it extruded. thats your new steps per mm...

In my case, it happened to be 118 steps per mm. This worked since its actual amount its extruded as if it was printing by measuring the second mark against the bowden entrance.

Hope this helps someone. Sorry if this is confusing or not a proper method. But its the method i found work for me and my underextrusions are gone.

I heard about that method and going to try it out as I had the same issues. Strange, 100mm should be 100mm no matter what right?

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