You must have the lead screw type z-axis rods. The defaults for those would not have been in the Configuration.h file, but you found them. Don't forget to run complete calibration on the printer to finalize your Configuration like extruder/e-steps, Motor steps, PID tune, etc.. You will get the hang of it, make one change and one step at a time though.Chip_M wrote:Just a followup note...we must have an older Hic i3 since I needed to change the default_axis_steps_per_unit for the z axis from 2560 to 394 in order to get the proper z axis movement (checking with the move Z axis knob function). I found the original value back in the rep-rap wiki for the Hic i3. All seems to be working properly, but it is time to make a few test prints to see how things work out.
I'm learning a lot....
HIC i3 - current firmware development information
- Chip Luck
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
[/quote]
You must have the lead screw type z-axis rods. The defaults for those would not have been in the Configuration.h file, but you found them. Don't forget to run complete calibration on the printer to finalize your Configuration like extruder/e-steps, Motor steps, PID tune, etc.. You will get the hang of it, make one change and one step at a time though.[/quote]
I noticed that the extruder esteps were wrong so I reset that back to the value I found in the wiki configuration file and that seems to have fixed it. The extruder temp had some pretty large swings in it too, so I reset the PID loop parameters to the Ultimaker values which were the ones HIC used in the original config file. I will try autotuning the PID loop and see what happens.
Just running a test print now to see how it is going. We have had the printer running for quite a while, but decided to add an inductive z-sensor, look into autoleveling, and add a new control board to replace the original one which suffered from a meltdown of the heated bed terminals. I added a relay switching for the bed so I could direct connect to the power supply, and that solved a whole bunch of overheating issues with the HIC- supplied wiring.
You must have the lead screw type z-axis rods. The defaults for those would not have been in the Configuration.h file, but you found them. Don't forget to run complete calibration on the printer to finalize your Configuration like extruder/e-steps, Motor steps, PID tune, etc.. You will get the hang of it, make one change and one step at a time though.[/quote]
I noticed that the extruder esteps were wrong so I reset that back to the value I found in the wiki configuration file and that seems to have fixed it. The extruder temp had some pretty large swings in it too, so I reset the PID loop parameters to the Ultimaker values which were the ones HIC used in the original config file. I will try autotuning the PID loop and see what happens.
Just running a test print now to see how it is going. We have had the printer running for quite a while, but decided to add an inductive z-sensor, look into autoleveling, and add a new control board to replace the original one which suffered from a meltdown of the heated bed terminals. I added a relay switching for the bed so I could direct connect to the power supply, and that solved a whole bunch of overheating issues with the HIC- supplied wiring.
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
@Chip_M It sounds like we have the same printer.
I have attached the latest firmware for my printer (The Hictop 3DP17)
I was sent it this morning.
Compiled .HEX version: Source Code: I ripped some of the configuration values from there, and everything is working great now.
I have attached the latest firmware for my printer (The Hictop 3DP17)
I was sent it this morning.
Compiled .HEX version: Source Code: I ripped some of the configuration values from there, and everything is working great now.
Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
I think you're right, Ben. Thanks for the files; I'll have a look. I did some more configuration modifications to Chip Luck's configuration.h since we wanted to use a glass top on the heated bed, so we used some strips of aluminum tape along the edges of the glass to provide auto-leveling sensing points for the HIC inductive sensor. I also changed the auto-home position from the bed center to the (0,20) point so that I wouldn't crash the head into the glass. Fiddled with the sensor offset position configuration values to get printer to go where I wanted it to. Right now it seems to be printing quite well, hot end holds temps to within 1 degree. I had some temperature stability problems earlier, but it turned out that the heater element set screw was loose, and the thermocouple set screw was missing! Now to get in a few prints and see how stable it all is. BTW, this is my son's printer...I'm just the software guybenpoulson wrote:@Chip_M It sounds like we have the same printer.
I have attached the latest firmware for my printer (The Hictop 3DP17)
I was sent it this morning.
Compiled .HEX version:
Marlin_3DP17_398.cpp.hex.zip
Source Code:
Marlin_3DP17_398.rar
I ripped some of the configuration values from there, and everything is working great now.
- Chip Luck
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
Yeah, that is some pretty old Marlin source. I assume you copied (probably the steps, etc.) from that config for your printer and inserted into 1.1.0-RC6 that I have? Make sure you default to other values in the 1.1.0-RC6 that default for HIC i3. Good luck with it.benpoulson wrote:@Chip_M It sounds like we have the same printer.
I have attached the latest firmware for my printer (The Hictop 3DP17)
I was sent it this morning.
Compiled .HEX version:
Marlin_3DP17_398.cpp.hex.zip
Source Code:
Marlin_3DP17_398.rar
I ripped some of the configuration values from there, and everything is working great now.
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
Exactly that. I was only having issues with the Z stepping on my model, so it was nice and simple to port the values over.Chip Luck wrote:Yeah, that is some pretty old Marlin source. I assume you copied (probably the steps, etc.) from that config for your printer and inserted into 1.1.0-RC6 that I have? Make sure you default to other values in the 1.1.0-RC6 that default for HIC i3. Good luck with it.benpoulson wrote:@Chip_M It sounds like we have the same printer.
I have attached the latest firmware for my printer (The Hictop 3DP17)
I was sent it this morning.
Compiled .HEX version:
Marlin_3DP17_398.cpp.hex.zip
Source Code:
Marlin_3DP17_398.rar
I ripped some of the configuration values from there, and everything is working great now.
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Thanks for all your work in supporting Hictop printers!
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
Hey Chip got everything running pretty good with the E3d v6 and the titan extruder, life is good with PLA so I started to experiment with other materials first thing I noticed is my bed would not get over 85. So I upgraded the power supply and wires as recommended and It still will not go over 85. let it heat for 2 hours the other night. So I tried printing at 85 and about 20 min into the prints it kept tripping the thermal protection. Any suggestions about why the bed may not be getting hotter then 85. Its like 95 degrees in my garage so I'm not thinking its ambient temp, I even tried a PID auto tune on the bed and the numbers were so different fro what is in their it was alarming, but I sent them in with an M304 and ran it still no joy?
- Chip Luck
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
You might want to look up "HICTOP bed" on the internet as somewhere there was mention of that partiular bed not getting up past a certain temp. When I have the time I'll see what mine does. The default temp in Configuration.h default to a lower value for HIC i3 that I modified, check you particular config. Otherwise a hardware issue..motor-vater wrote:Hey Chip got everything running pretty good with the E3d v6 and the titan extruder, life is good with PLA so I started to experiment with other materials first thing I noticed is my bed would not get over 85. So I upgraded the power supply and wires as recommended and It still will not go over 85. let it heat for 2 hours the other night. So I tried printing at 85 and about 20 min into the prints it kept tripping the thermal protection. Any suggestions about why the bed may not be getting hotter then 85. Its like 95 degrees in my garage so I'm not thinking its ambient temp, I even tried a PID auto tune on the bed and the numbers were so different fro what is in their it was alarming, but I sent them in with an M304 and ran it still no joy?
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
So interestingly enough I've attempted my own, then this, firmware (above), but i get the same result-the z-probe doesn't trigger a stop of the motors. I assume i am wiring incorrectly-however everything seems fine. I have the RED Mpx.3 Board, i've removed the mechanical endstop switch-and replaced with a single signal wire with the rest coming from 12v with resistors. Can anyone confirm WHICH pin the signal is? i do not have a wiring diagram, but have tried all 3 with no change in function. At this point i'm at a loss... ready to give up
Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
I have been reading this tread and found it so interesting, that I bought a HICTOP 3DP17 printer. (My first 3D printer)
The printer is working well, but need some adjustment. I didn´t get any source code with the delivery and I would like to change some values in configuration.h.
Is the best way just to start using marlin (1.1.0-RC6) and adjust the configuration.h to this printer, or do I need to change other files in the standard marlin file set ?
Any advice would bee much appreciated.
The printer is working well, but need some adjustment. I didn´t get any source code with the delivery and I would like to change some values in configuration.h.
Is the best way just to start using marlin (1.1.0-RC6) and adjust the configuration.h to this printer, or do I need to change other files in the standard marlin file set ?
Any advice would bee much appreciated.
- Chip Luck
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
You should research your printer and edit only the <Configuration.h> file to start. If you need more help, check out the Reprap forums. Good luck.claus wrote:I have been reading this tread and found it so interesting, that I bought a HICTOP 3DP17 printer. (My first 3D printer)
The printer is working well, but need some adjustment. I didn´t get any source code with the delivery and I would like to change some values in configuration.h.
Is the best way just to start using marlin (1.1.0-RC6) and adjust the configuration.h to this printer, or do I need to change other files in the standard marlin file set ?
Any advice would bee much appreciated.
Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
Thanks Chip Luck
I asked Hictop for a new version of the source code and got the same old version (Marlin_3DP17_398) as you wrote about.
I will start testing with this version, so I can come back to a working solution.
Then testing with marlin 1.1.0-RC6, I will try only changing the steps in Configuration.h
I asked Hictop for a new version of the source code and got the same old version (Marlin_3DP17_398) as you wrote about.
I will start testing with this version, so I can come back to a working solution.
Then testing with marlin 1.1.0-RC6, I will try only changing the steps in Configuration.h
- Chip Luck
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
I would start with the 1.1.0-RC6 as it is a open source from Github and tested on many HIC i3 printers. I have had nothing but issues with OEM supplied source code, one version sent to me would not even compile, it had all kinds of very obvious syntax errors like someone had messed with the actual source code and not the configuration.claus wrote:Thanks Chip Luck
I asked Hictop for a new version of the source code and got the same old version (Marlin_3DP17_398) as you wrote about.
I will start testing with this version, so I can come back to a working solution.
Then testing with marlin 1.1.0-RC6, I will try only changing the steps in Configuration.h
Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
I tried the 1.1.0-RC7 version only changing the Configuration.h and it’s working just fine. (maybe a little risky with this new version)
The only thing I’m missing is the “auto bed level” feature. Have you tested this in one of the newer marlin versions ?
The only thing I’m missing is the “auto bed level” feature. Have you tested this in one of the newer marlin versions ?
- Chip Luck
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Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information
Correct, really all you have to do is edit the <Configuration.h> file and you should be good to go. Sometimes I tweak or edit some of the other source code but that's just me. I might give RC7 a shot, but RC6 is working fine for me.claus wrote:I tried the 1.1.0-RC7 version only changing the Configuration.h and it’s working just fine. (maybe a little risky with this new version)
The only thing I’m missing is the “auto bed level” feature. Have you tested this in one of the newer marlin versions ?
I have not used so called 'auto bed level' as I find it useless. It should be called 'auto average z-height', it will not 'level' the bed if it's not perfectly level to begin with. I assume IF your bed is perfectly level, then this will set your z-height (and offset) for you; if that's the case I could see it being useful instead of having to keep adjusting the z-end stop every time you change nozzle/barrel/extruder etc. Good luck!