HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Software and Firmware Discussion - related to source code, firmware updates, etc.
blc
Reactions:
Posts: 22
Joined: March 25th, 2016, 11:03 am
3D Printer(s): HICTOP 3DP-11

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by blc »

Chip Luck wrote:Yes, however Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 has auto-leveling (probing type) and is disabled by default; if you read the guide on reprap.org they do not suggest it and I have not tired to enable it. My HIC i3 came with a inductive z-probe and helped a lot for auto-z homing position, I believe this is what 'China' refers to as 'auto leveling' on this model. The code will of course support dual extruders as it is the latest version. I'm getting the full graphics controller and true lead-screw z rods for my HIC i3 and will be updating the software configuration to add those.

Thanks for the comment, if you would like my current code (actually just a few edited configuration files from the git hub supplied Marlin 1.1.0-RC3) let me know your email and I will send it to you. It has no major issues that I can see so far after running it for about a week. Do NOT use China OEM supplied source code, it's been hacked.

Here is my current HIC i3 v1.1.02 / Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 based configuration.h file:
<snip>
You will also need updated: conditionals.h, Default_version.h and ultralcd.h. Let me know when you are ready and I will post them.
Hi Chip

Any chance you could post up your most recent working firmware files? I've just rebuilt my Hictop "Desktop" printer, and I'm interested in your optimisations.

Many thanks for all your hard work so far.
User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by Chip Luck »

Funny you ask, In fact I just now as of yesterday have my HIC i3 finally printing very well with the now default EEPROM and firmware settings. No more tweaking on the LCD or Slic3r/Cura to get a default standard quality print going. Turn it on, upload .stl to host and print.

Stand by, will post the source code soon along with a EEPROM and slicer settings tracking worksheet.
blc
Reactions:
Posts: 22
Joined: March 25th, 2016, 11:03 am
3D Printer(s): HICTOP 3DP-11

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by blc »

Chip Luck wrote:Funny you ask, In fact I just now as of yesterday have my HIC i3 finally printing very well with the now default EEPROM and firmware settings. No more tweaking on the LCD or Slic3r/Cura to get a default standard quality print going. Turn it on, upload .stl to host and print.

Stand by, will post the source code soon along with a EEPROM and slicer settings tracking worksheet.
Thanks :).

Now if I could just get bed levelling nailed then I might get somewhere...! :D
User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by Chip Luck »

HICTOP firmware release - Version HIC i3 Marlin 1.1.03-RC4 (BugFix) : 04.18.16 A

Printer: HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3 (China kit)
MB: RAMPS 1.3/1.4
Endstops: default/factory/N.O. type
Motor Steps: default 8mm x 1.25mm pitch z-axis rods, stock X and Y axis
Output Config: Extruder (1 ea.), Fan, Bed
Other: Aluminum frame, LCD 20x4 stock

*** DISCLAIMER - USE AT YOUR OWN RISK ***

This firmware is now running on 3 each of our local groups HIC i3's for the last few days with major no-issues and noted improved performance over the stock firmware installed on delivery. The feed rates, accelerations, etc. have all been tweaked to produce good calibration objects such as the 20x20mm test cubes, etc. You will have to tune this to your own printer and needs, this is only a baseline to start.

!!! Please, again if you do not know what you are doing such as how to manipulate or install this firmware please, DO NOT attempt to update/flash your printer. We are will NOT responsible for your machine if you have issues. If you mess things up, you are pretty much on your own. You HAVE been warned!!!

*** WHEN UPDATING FIRMWARE THIS WILL OVERWRITE YOUR FACTORY DEFAULTS AND YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO RECOVER FACTORY SETTINGS UNLESS YOU HAVE ORIGINAL FACTORY SOURCE CODE TO RE-COMPILE FOR YOUR PRINTER ***

Marlin HIC i3 1.1.03-RC4 Source Code:
Marlin_HICi3-1.1.03-RC4_CL041816A.zip
(522.28 KiB) Downloaded 1008 times
HIC i3 EEPROM settings and combined Slic3r and Cura HIC i3 default settings worksheet: If you do get to this point : then let us know how it works for you. We are not an official Marlin source, just fellow HIC i3 users on a 3D printing journey. Again, good luck with your HIC i3 and as always comments are welcome.
blc
Reactions:
Posts: 22
Joined: March 25th, 2016, 11:03 am
3D Printer(s): HICTOP 3DP-11

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by blc »

This is much appreciated, I'll look into this when I get a bit of time this week.
User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by Chip Luck »

blc wrote:
Chip Luck wrote:Funny you ask, In fact I just now as of yesterday have my HIC i3 finally printing very well with the now default EEPROM and firmware settings. No more tweaking on the LCD or Slic3r/Cura to get a default standard quality print going. Turn it on, upload .stl to host and print.

Stand by, will post the source code soon along with a EEPROM and slicer settings tracking worksheet.
Thanks :).

Now if I could just get bed levelling nailed then I might get somewhere...! :D
Good news, using the source code here HIC ic 1.1.03-RC4 my friend has his HIC i3 doing auto-level. I'm going to try it next. Of course you have to have an inductive Z-probe which I assume you do. Will post changes to the configuration.h file that you will need.
NotMe999
Reactions:
Posts: 11
Joined: March 28th, 2016, 12:14 am
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Prusa i3 with Auto-leveling

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by NotMe999 »

Thanks, Chip. Is there something more to installing the firmware than configuring it, compiling it using Arduino and then using Repetier or Cura to write it to the motherboard?
User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by Chip Luck »

NotMe999 wrote:Thanks, Chip. Is there something more to installing the firmware than configuring it, compiling it using Arduino and then using Repetier or Cura to write it to the motherboard?
I would start by using the code as is if you have the same HIC i3 we use, already setup for it. Stock 20x4 LCD; z-axis threaded rods 8 x 1.25mm pitch; single extruder, fan, bed; etc.

You use the Arduino IDE to compile and upload when working from source code. First install the IDE along with it's USB drivers, set your USB/'serial port, connect to printer to make sure it is working properly then exit the IDE. Double click the Marlin.ino file in the source code directory, this will bring up the IDE then select upload and if everything goes right you will be good to go.

After that you can exit IDE and bring up your host program and print. Start with small calibration objects like a 20 x 20mm cube, you will have to tweak the settings such as e-steps, etc. to match your printer and filament.
User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by Chip Luck »

Just a word of note and possible WARNING using OEM supplied firmware.

A fellow HIC i3 user downloaded the firmware .hex file from an 'official' HIC link supplied by the MFG. It appears the when he uploaded the .hex file to his printer it somehow damaged his controller board as he can no longer connect to it over USB. The China support people responded and said "board must be bad" = no kidding, now it is. It was working fine, until he tried to upload the OEM China supplied firmware.
blc
Reactions:
Posts: 22
Joined: March 25th, 2016, 11:03 am
3D Printer(s): HICTOP 3DP-11

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by blc »

Chip Luck wrote:Good news, using the source code here HIC ic 1.1.03-RC4 my friend has his HIC i3 doing auto-level. I'm going to try it next. Of course you have to have an inductive Z-probe which I assume you do. Will post changes to the configuration.h file that you will need.
Don't sweat over auto-levelling, I'm having enough trouble with manual levelling!
nyh
Reactions:
Posts: 2
Joined: April 23rd, 2016, 2:36 pm
3D Printer(s): Hictop i3 metal

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by nyh »

Chip, your work on the firmware for these sounds very useful. Could you you explain / confirm two things however?

- Which electronics are you targeting? Ramps? My recently purchased one came with an MKS Base v. 1.4

- Which version of Arduino are you building in, and do you set the target to a stock one like an Arduino Mega or do you use and select one of the Marlin project's customized board definitions as the recent versions of their code recommend?

I know I'm going to have to change the Z steps to account for the 8mm (2mm times 4 lead) screws they are unfortunately shipping now, just wondering what other differences I may have to compensate for.

Also, to anyone else contemplating experiments, you can backup the factory firmware and fuse settings with an ISP (including a stock Arduino with ISP sketch) and avrdude - just make sure to unplug the LCD cables as they interfere with the ISP signals.
User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by Chip Luck »

nyh wrote:Could you you explain / confirm two things however?
nyh wrote:- Which electronics are you targeting? Ramps? My recently purchased one came with an MKS Base v. 1.4
Using the OEM RAMPS board that is labeled "MPX .3", a red colored board from HIC and defining it as a RAMPS 1.3 type. Others locally have the same as mine or a black one that is MKS Base v1.4 using the firmware. The #defines for all RAMPS types, and then some are in the <configuration.h> file.
nyh wrote:- Which version of Arduino are you building in, and do you set the target to a stock one like an Arduino Mega or do you use and select one of the Marlin project's customized board definitions as the recent versions of their code recommend?
I just downloaded and compiled Marlin 1.1.0-RC5 from Github today, and according the the wiki you will need the latest Arduino v1.6.x to compile, I am using IDE v1.6.8 as of today. It's all in the on-line Marlin wiki.
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki
nyh wrote:I know I'm going to have to change the Z steps to account for the 8mm (2mm times 4 lead) screws they are unfortunately shipping now, just wondering what other differences I may have to compensate for.
There are plenty of tutorials on the net to calculate those 2mm X 4 leadscrews (you will like them), yes there are values for that but do not have the exact link for you. In fact I need to order and upgrade kit for my HICi3 8mm X 1.25mm screws, but working good for now.
nyh wrote:Also, to anyone else contemplating experiments, you can backup the factory firmware and fuse settings with an ISP (including a stock Arduino with ISP sketch) and avrdude - just make sure to unplug the LCD cables as they interfere with the ISP signals.
Did not know that, however have no reason to go back to OEM firmware, I like the EEPROM, SD card, etc. to work. I will upload my latest <Configuration.h> along with the version file <Default_Version.h>. Those are only two files that I have modified from the original source code. You will have no issue updating the configuration.h file to match your Z-axis rods post your calculations. Again, most answers are on the Marlin and RepRap.org Wiki's and Forums.

If you have not built the HIC i3 yet, check out the other sub-forum for help. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
nyh
Reactions:
Posts: 2
Joined: April 23rd, 2016, 2:36 pm
3D Printer(s): Hictop i3 metal

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by nyh »

Thanks. So I take it you followed the current Marlin instructions selecting their add-on board as the compile target in the IDE, and not an Arduino's ordinary Arduino Mega target? (ie, you installed and used Marlin's modified Arduino core libraries rather than the stock ones?)

The printer basically works, and really prints pretty well, with the exception of being unable to read SD cards and a somewhat jumpy encoder knob.

I know the Z axis step change is simple, however I would not personally recommend the four-start leadscrews as an upgrade investment. They end up with pointlessly high a lead, meaning a lot of torque is required which creates a wholly unecessary risk of Z axis step loss, for no real benefit - the only time a printer needs to move its Z axis rapidly is when lowering after a many hour print, and that saves what, a few seconds after a 10 hour job? The most obvious demonstration of the torque required by the high lead is that rotating one motor while powered off does not inductively spin the other. Presumably they are used because they were manufactured for something else that did need rapid motion, and the leftovers could be cheaply sourced. You can get single start leadscrews for only slightly more.
User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by Chip Luck »

nyh wrote:Thanks. So I take it you followed the current Marlin instructions selecting their add-on board as the compile target in the IDE, and not an Arduino's ordinary Arduino Mega target? (ie, you installed and used Marlin's modified Arduino core libraries rather than the stock ones?)
I just set the "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 260" then "AtMega2560 (Mega 2560)" and good to go.
nyh wrote:The printer basically works, and really prints pretty well, with the exception of being unable to read SD cards and a somewhat jumpy encoder knob.
Good to hear she's working. This will fix those issues and them some. EEPROM write, SD now solid (remove/insert with power on, and prompts), LCD updates, better LCD menu's, etc.
nyh wrote:I know the Z axis step change is simple, however I would not personally recommend the four-start leadscrews as an upgrade investment. They end up with pointlessly high a lead, meaning a lot of torque is required which creates a wholly unecessary risk of Z axis step loss, for no real benefit - the only time a printer needs to move its Z axis rapidly is when lowering after a many hour print, and that saves what, a few seconds after a 10 hour job? The most obvious demonstration of the torque required by the high lead is that rotating one motor while powered off does not inductively spin the other. Presumably they are used because they were manufactured for something else that did need rapid motion, and the leftovers could be cheaply sourced. You can get single start leadscrews for only slightly more.
I'm sticking with my precision SS 8mm rods for now.

Make sure you download 1.1.0-RC5 from here and then use my <configuration.h> file to start, will save you a lot of time as there a quite a few changes needed besides just the EEPROM, motors, etc.
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/RC

Here is my latest and current <Configuration.h> and for reference my <Default_Version.h>. I always copy the original Marlin files to => *.*.orig.
Marlin-1.1.0-RC5_HICi3-1.1..0-RC5_CL042316_X1.zip
(16.73 KiB) Downloaded 619 times
Let me know how it goes for you.

Chip

---
User avatar
Chip Luck
Reactions:
Posts: 191
Joined: February 11th, 2016, 9:12 am
Location: Central Florida
3D Printer(s): HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3
Contact:

Re: HIC i3 - current firmware development information

Post by Chip Luck »

Chip Luck wrote:
nyh wrote:Thanks. So I take it you followed the current Marlin instructions selecting their add-on board as the compile target in the IDE, and not an Arduino's ordinary Arduino Mega target? (ie, you installed and used Marlin's modified Arduino core libraries rather than the stock ones?)
I just set the Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 260" then Processor: "AtMega2560 (Mega 2560)" from the Tools menu and good to go.
nyh wrote:The printer basically works, and really prints pretty well, with the exception of being unable to read SD cards and a somewhat jumpy encoder knob.
Good to hear she's working. This will fix those issues and them some. EEPROM write, SD now solid (remove/insert with power on, and prompts), LCD updates, better LCD menu's, etc.
nyh wrote:I know the Z axis step change is simple, however I would not personally recommend the four-start leadscrews as an upgrade investment. They end up with pointlessly high a lead, meaning a lot of torque is required which creates a wholly unecessary risk of Z axis step loss, for no real benefit - the only time a printer needs to move its Z axis rapidly is when lowering after a many hour print, and that saves what, a few seconds after a 10 hour job? The most obvious demonstration of the torque required by the high lead is that rotating one motor while powered off does not inductively spin the other. Presumably they are used because they were manufactured for something else that did need rapid motion, and the leftovers could be cheaply sourced. You can get single start leadscrews for only slightly more.
Agreed, I'm sticking with my precision SS 8mm rods for now.

Make sure you download 1.1.0-RC5 from here and then use my <configuration.h> file to start, will save you a lot of time as there a quite a few changes needed besides just the EEPROM, motors, etc.
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/RC

Here is my latest and current <Configuration.h> and for reference my <Default_Version.h>. I always copy the original Marlin files to => *.*.orig.
Marlin-1.1.0-RC5_HICi3-1.1..0-RC5_CL042316_X1.zip
Let me know how it goes for you.

Chip

---
Post Reply

Return to “Software and Firmware Discussion”