Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Software and Firmware Discussion - related to source code, firmware updates, etc.
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Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 2nd, 2019, 10:13 pm

Got it for $170US. Appears new. Assembled horribly. Reassembled from the ground up. I managed to print a torture cube without any tweaking (using a Cura Prusa I3 profile). It was stringy, but wispy. Aside from that, it was a success.

I'd like to put some new firmware on the machine like I did with my Ender 3. Does anyone here have a currently running config.h file for the 3DP-17 printer using Marlin 1.1.9?

Many thanks!
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Roberts_Clif
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Roberts_Clif » March 3rd, 2019, 7:48 am

I have the 3DP11/12 upgraded to what is closely considered a 3DP17.
I believe that this will be easily converted to your 3D Printer I have all Marlin 1.1.x and even Marlin 2.0.x setup.

The first step is to download the original firmware from the Manufactures web site here .
This is a backup to be able to return to your original firmware if you ever need to for any reason.
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 4th, 2019, 8:14 am

After reading here for a while, I was hoping to hear from you. You seem to be quite knowledgeable! Since posting, I have contacted the manufacturer, gotten the .hex of the original firmware, done an M503 and retained those settings.

I then grabbed a copy of Marlin 1.1.9 from Github. I grabbed a fairly recent config and confg.adv from Thingiverse, tweaked it's configuration to more accurately match my desires and to incorporate my full graphics display from my old Ender 3. I've got her fired up and she's printing - just not well yet. I'm getting under-extrusion something fierce. Even after accurately calibrating my e-Steps.

Any other settings changes will have to wait for a bit. I have just ordered replacement 410mm linear rods and a complete bearing change. The rods that came with this kit were not the right size at all. The former owner had tweaked the (x) rail holders with washers to make it work...it didn't. Ironically, the absolute FIRST thing I printed out of this machine (before discovering the shoddy build) was a torture test lattice cube! The machine had some ludicrous accelerations settings too! Like some of the acceleration numbers were in the 5000-9000 range!! Yikes! The lattice cube was a success despite the settings and the horrible build. A testament to what the printer can become.

I also want to find a decent lead screw upgrade as the ones I have are garbage. Not only to they have backlash, the move a couple of thou side to side in the bronze threaded insert!

For now, I am working through it and am glad me Ender is a solid printer to help me out. If you have tips and tricks, I would love to hear them. Thank you for taking the time to reply!
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GrueMaster
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by GrueMaster » March 4th, 2019, 10:10 am

To get rid of the backlash, get a set of these. I installed them on my 3DP-17 and haven't had any issues since.

Granted, my 3DP-17 hasn't been used in quite a while, as I mainly use my CR-10S. Less fiddly (and I just haven't had the spare time). I'm going to wok on getting it back online over the next month or so, so that my wife can print her little things (meeples, Gloomhaven stands, etc). I may even push some of my finer detailed miniatures to it with a smaller nozzle (it seams to handle them better).

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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Roberts_Clif » March 4th, 2019, 11:35 am

Tech Gorilla wrote:
March 4th, 2019, 8:14 am
I then grabbed a copy of Marlin 1.1.9 from Github.
I hope you grabbed the Marlin 1.1.9-bugfix version, as they fixed quite a few problems after releasing Marlin 1.1.9 .
Myself as Marlin 2.0.x was stable for Ramps 1.4 compatible hardware I jump in with both feet so to speak install on both 3D printers.

They also added a few new features - just to name a few
S_CURVE_ACCELERATION
JUNCTION_DEVIATION

* Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable
* this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.
#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28

ADV
#define PARK_HEAD_ON_PAUSE
#define BABYSTEPPING // Not new just threw it in because I like it.

//#define LONG_FILENAME_HOST_SUPPORT
//#define SCROLL_LONG_FILENAMES
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 4th, 2019, 11:56 am

Those little gadgets are interesting. Those along with a decent set of lead screws should help out. So far, this Hictop is getting it's butt kicked all over my print farm by my Ender 3. That machine is just built right. It's tweaked a little, but not a monster. It just prints well.

This one....not so much. I tossed on the factory firmware to make sure I wasn't missing something and I ended up breaking a new fan shroud. Back to 1.1.9 I went.

I am not liking this printer so far. I hope it gets better.
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 4th, 2019, 12:01 pm

I did NOT get the bugfix (I don't think) Will get now.

Thank you for those settings. Those are some very nice things to set!
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 4th, 2019, 12:44 pm

I have so many questions about this printer compared to my Ender 3!

I think I need to check the vRefs for the steppers because I have a feeling that some of what I think is under-extrusion may be z layers shifting. There is so much slop in the lead screws, it wouldn't surprise me. I also am confused as to how the printer works out if the two z lead screws are level. Curious.

I find that this part cooling fan is SUPER powerful!! When I first configured 1.1.9, My print would stop about 8 seconds after the cooling fan came on. I was dropping temp by 10c and tripping the timer.(since adjusted) Why is the fan so bloody powerful? Is this machine REALLY intended to travel at the accelerations speeds that it was originally set at? They number were INSANE!

I have roughly set the speeds and accelerations to match my Ender for lack of other evidence besides it's a lot less violent this way.

I'm also considering modifying the inductive sensor to run at a higher voltage in an attempt to increase it's effective range. If that is a myth or cannot be done, I will get a BLTouch for this too.

Thanks for reading if you have! :D
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Roberts_Clif » March 4th, 2019, 5:08 pm

Tech Gorilla wrote:
March 4th, 2019, 12:44 pm

I think I need to check the vRefs
There is so much slop in the lead screws,

I find that this part cooling fan is SUPER powerful!!
I will raise the Z-Axis after home to the Cross bar disable the steppers, then will level the Z-Axis with the Cross Bar.
This is done by turning the lead screws into both Lead-Screw Mounts are parallel with the bottom of the cross bar.
Then again will lower the Z-Axis enough to clear, and auto home.

At this time I will level the aluminum hot-bed using the Bed Leveling nuts.
I will drop the Z-Axis until I can slide a piece a paper between the nozzle an the bed.
then disable the steppers moving the bed and nozzle by hand to each of the 4 corners adjusting the bed leveling nuts until bed is level.
Then I will auto Bed level using the Bi-Linear bed leveling feature. immediately after leveling the bed I will save the bed leveling data.
Using the Store Settings or M500m this way I only have to re-level the bed if it is somehow adjusted out of level.

V-Ref this is the steps I use to adjust the Stepper motor current.

I have lowered the X,Y an E to .7 While using the www-GoldenMotors-cn 42HD4027-01
Leaving the Z-Axis setting as is for the www-GoldenMotors-cn 42HD2037-01

I have posted a link for several STL files I designed or Re-modeled for various models that will fit your 3D Printer.
Part cooler duct
Snap Controller Case
Power Supply connector cover

Need to learn how to setup a google Drive with All my 3D Printer information with one shareable link.
Well not a long time

Models Here

Location I got my 1st Marlin firmware that worked
Last edited by Roberts_Clif on March 5th, 2019, 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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GrueMaster
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by GrueMaster » March 4th, 2019, 10:33 pm

Tech Gorilla wrote:
March 4th, 2019, 11:56 am
Those little gadgets are interesting. Those along with a decent set of lead screws should help out. So far, this Hictop is getting it's butt kicked all over my print farm by my Ender 3. That machine is just built right. It's tweaked a little, but not a monster. It just prints well.

This one....not so much. I tossed on the factory firmware to make sure I wasn't missing something and I ended up breaking a new fan shroud. Back to 1.1.9 I went.

I am not liking this printer so far. I hope it gets better.
The 3DP series printers are definitely more fiddly. I have both the Hictop 3DP-17 and the Hictop CR-10S. I haven't fired up my 3DP-17 in months, largely because I simply haven't had the time to retweak all of the settings, update the firmware, relevel the bed, etc. My CR-10S just needs the Z steppers realigned after sitting for 48+ hours without being used (right motor tends to slip a little). I also usually rerun a simple bed level test (4 squares in the corners, one in the center). After that, I don't need to mess with it.

I will say this: What I spent the time learning on the 3DP-17 has been very helpful with my newer CR-10S. I learned a LOT from the 3DP-17.

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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 5th, 2019, 12:46 pm

What I have learned so far -

You guys are a great resource of ideas and information. Thanks for the help!

Neither of my printers had Bugfix marlin (1.1.9) I now have the latest bugfix running on both printers. What I learned compiling and re-compiling Marlin has gained me much information.

I am now very comfortable editing and tweaking the firmware, how to pack and store different configurations and how to add multiple lines of code in the config.h and only uncomment what I want.

I now have more screen options than I have ever had including a really cool graphical interface for live z-height adjusting. Overall, I am stoked at how things have gone.

I capped all of my acceleration numbers to 1500 (a little higher than your suggested 1200) and the machine is now successfully printing it's own replacement parts with a decent amount of quality.

I refuse to use the Ender to print parts for the Prusa... It's capable, let it do it! :D

I have also packed the linear bearings with a white litium grease and hey are MUCH quieter. They must have been shipped dry or something. The longer I run them, the better they sound. I do have replacement 410mm rails and bearings inbound anyway. I'll keep them for spares for now.

I finally understood the setting of the sensor, the nozzle in the block and the bed. I now have a rock solid Z offset that I am ready to put in the firmware. Of course, I just printed the adjustment block for the level sensor, so I will need to calibrate z offset one more time after installing this.

I found a dead simple circuit to use my level sensor at 24V supply voltage I am hoping that this allows me to install (at minimum a PEI sheet) or a glass sheet with PEI. Painters tape is working, but kind of a pain compared to PEI. I DO find that you need to print on a cooler bed with this printer. I started the first layer bed at 40c and dropped to 30c for the rest of the print. Adhesion is not a problem for me.

The only other thing I did was to use a start G-code that wipes the nozzle along the left of the bed before printing (ala Enders) so I don't have a blob of plastic ruin my first layer.

Sorry for the rambling. I always try to accurately convey information for those potentially reading in the future.
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 6th, 2019, 6:55 pm

Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable
* this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.
#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G2
I just went in a turned this off. After editing this setting, my Hictop stopped running the bed level script or-even using it. I found this to be no good. I went back to the original
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Roberts_Clif » March 6th, 2019, 8:09 pm

Have never had this problem with RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28

I do know that when you update your firmware that some G-Code need to be sent to allow the new firmware defaults to be read and stored.

M502: Factory Reset - Marlin Firmware
M500: Save Settings - Marlin Firmware

If this is not done then the old firmware setting are still being used.
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 7th, 2019, 6:35 pm

Roberts_Clif wrote:
March 6th, 2019, 8:09 pm
Have never had this problem with RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28

I do know that when you update your firmware that some G-Code need to be sent to allow the new firmware defaults to be read and stored.

M502: Factory Reset - Marlin Firmware
M500: Save Settings - Marlin Firmware

If this is not done then the old firmware setting are still being used.
In that vein - if you don't clear the EEPROM then settings can persist through different uploads of the Marlin firmware. Ask me how I learned this the hard way.....three times. :-o :-D
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Re: Bought a used Hictop 3DP17 from a local chap...

Post by Tech Gorilla » March 7th, 2019, 6:59 pm

GrueMaster wrote:
March 4th, 2019, 10:10 am
To get rid of the backlash, get a set of these. I installed them on my 3DP-17 and haven't had any issues since.
I got this in today...I said THIS because impatient me didn't notice that they were not sold in sets. The second will be here Saturday with my new y carriage frame, bearings and all metal extruder parts. It will be an upgrade weekend!

I experimented with the "original" Classic Prusa profiles on Cara with this machine. The latest Prusa I3 profile shipped with Cura kicks it's butt! I'd post the results here, but the octopus in the printed model is giving a rude gesture - several actually. This seems like a family place.
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