Dymco Printer (Anet A8 Clone)

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usajet
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Joined: October 15th, 2017, 3:14 pm
3D Printer(s): Dmyco

Dymco Printer (Anet A8 Clone)

Post by usajet » October 15th, 2017, 3:19 pm

How do I setup this printer? The best way to level the bed? etc. Any tips and tricks? Should I use a piece of glass on the bed? Also after putting the info in the printer does the software over rides the firmware on the printer?

Thank You Nathan

GrueMaster
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Joined: March 15th, 2017, 8:46 pm
Location: Oregon
3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S

Re: Dymco Printer (Anet A8 Clone)

Post by GrueMaster » October 15th, 2017, 4:00 pm

Not really sure exactly what your printer has, so it is going to be difficult to give you a lot of tips. But here is a shot.

For bed leveling, the easiest way that most people have found is to first do Auto Home. This will put the print head at the default X/Y/Z coordinates. For some (CR-10S for example), this is 0/0/4 (it should never leave the Z axis at zero as the tip can clog if it oozes a little while warming up). My Hictop 3DP-17, will go to X=0, Y=0, then move to X/Y center before lowering Z to either the endstop or autosensor detect, then raise Z to ~10. This is hardcoded in the firmware (which you can rebuild - different subject). Once you have done auto home, I recommend moving the X/Y so that the print head is as close to being over 1 corner leveling screw as possible. Then slide a piece of paper (notebook paper, printer paper, post-it note, etc) under the tip and lower the Z axis. With Z at 0, adjust the screw until the paper slides between the bed and tip with a little friction. Repeat for each corner. Once each corner is set, repeat the process one more time (as the bed tilt can change the level of oppposite corners). Once you feel confident that this is good, check the Z axis in the center of the bed. Some (most) beds from China can suffer warpage, and this is where you will see it most.

As to glass on the bed, this will only work if you have either a Z limit switch (usually mounted in a fixed location on the frame), or a good sensor (my 3DP-17 came with an Inductive sensor - won't work with glass). If you have a limit switch, you can get some glass cut to fit your bed, then use clips to hold it in place (most people use a simple clamp stile paper clip). The type of glass depends on you. A lot of people use mirrors (no distortion), or borosilicate glass, but I have heard of people using cheap picture frame glass from the dollar store. The advantage of glass is that it usually won't warp over time (thicker is better).

As to the software, it can override some firmware settings, but they are usually restored on reset. This normally only happens when you add custom gcode to your printer profile.

Welcome to the 3D printing world. Prepare to have a lot of patience. Very few people ever just get perfect prints without some sort of issues. It is still a rapidly evolving technology. Don't get frustrated.

usajet
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Joined: October 15th, 2017, 3:14 pm
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Re: Dymco Printer (Anet A8 Clone)

Post by usajet » October 16th, 2017, 7:32 am

Thank you for the tips. It's hard not to get frustrated :) For the glass will it have problems with proper temperature?

GrueMaster
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3D Printer(s): Hictop 3DP-17, Hictop CR-10S

Re: Dymco Printer (Anet A8 Clone)

Post by GrueMaster » October 16th, 2017, 10:03 am

No, glass works great. It will transfer the heat just fine.

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