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CR-10 vs Ultimaker 2+ Benchie prints

Posted: July 15th, 2017, 12:39 am
by LePaul
White is terrible to photograph....but here goes...

White = CR-10
Blue = Ultimaker 2+

White filament ColorFabb PLA Economy
Blue is Ultimaker brand blue PLA


Re: CR-10 vs Ultimaker 2+ Benchie prints

Posted: August 7th, 2017, 10:58 pm
by Chaco
im really please to see that the CR10 is performing so well.... not bad... makes me want one just for the volume

Re: CR-10 vs Ultimaker 2+ Benchie prints

Posted: August 8th, 2017, 2:46 am
by Anders Olsson
Interesting, zebra-bug that the Ultimaker machines suffer from under certain conditions is clearly visible here.
Do you know what stepper driver circuit the CR-10 is using?

This reminds me that I really should get a set of those TL-smoothers to test on the Ultimaker.

Re: CR-10 vs Ultimaker 2+ Benchie prints

Posted: August 8th, 2017, 9:24 am
by LePaul
That I do not know (stepper circuit). It comes with a Melzi board and apparently with some work, you can flash it (per ... the-CR-10/)

Here's the thing that's really appealing...

Once you sort out any issues with the z coupler (many flex/stretch out from poor Q&A during assembly), that's really it.

I've watched this thing print 3 large objects (60+ hours long each) and great results. Of course, I think it could be better!

I was chatting with a friend the other evening and we figure if you replace the no-name nozzle with something like an E3Dv6 (or a hacked up Ultimaker 2+ print head...!), you could really increase not only the quality but what materials you can use. Further, if you want to take the electronics to the next level, you could even consider using a Duet Wifi controller card. Last time I checked, the [genuine] E3Dv6 hot end kit is about $72 and a a Duet Wifi is $169 (just buy screen or use tablet).

It would certainly take some work but even with the printer being $400, given the upgrades mentioned, that's still way cheaper than a gcreate gMax or a Raise3D N2 Plus (or a Taz 6).