3D Printing Forum

Ultimaker Silver PLA

210, 220, 225. Maybe more fan at 225?

Try 230'C just to see if it is to high

I think I will up the retracting distance from 4.6 to 4.8 and see how that goes too

For me this was solved using Ruby nozzle a dual fan(can't tell which did the trick as both were installed at the same time)

Well the printer has the dual fan. Ultimaker PLA is a much different creature than the ColorFabb I have used almost exclusively in the past

The Ultimaker filament was ok at a push, but not as good as ColorFabb or Faberdashery PLAs

I'm just trying to figure out how to make a decent print with it!

I have a little bit of Colorfabb Dutch Orange and thought I'd print robots in each filament and see if both get blobs. Both do

I even checked the extruder Hobbes piece. It was clean but sometimes I notice nothing moves when I manually crank. Should I adjust that bolt tighter on the U-bracket/clamp piece?

I wonder how long the hobbed bolt lasts...is it time for a new one?

Well I can see the filament moving in and out of that extruder drive very nicely. I removed the filament and took a small brush to the surface while slowly rotating it. No debris, so it isn't dirty.

I'm truly stumped! What's causing the blobs!

Are you running a Ruby Nozzle in the UMO?

No, the standard brass one. I've done atomics and it's clean.

Two questions, what layer height are you using?
The photos attached are at 0.1mm (100um) layer heights. 210'C Nozzle,50'C bed at 45mm/s.
Material is Ultimaker PLA red.
And what are you using to photograph with, good quality images

Paul, you are sitting on a stash of Ruby Nozzles right. So I'd say pop one in(or pop one in that comes from your UM2+), and see if that helps
You remember that geared heart topic I had? Loads of blobs everywhere. After installing dual fan and Rubby Nozzle it was gone 100%. Same filament, same settings(albeit a little hotter to compensate for the ruby nozzle).

Since you already have the dual fan, the ruby nozzle is my only idea

My only concern putting the ruby in is I have to mess with the brass pipe fitting into the heater block. As I recall, just removing the original nozzle with the ruby leaves it sitting flush with the heater block.