3D Printing Forum

Try to set the bed temp to 55 and not 60. That helps with greentec/platec. Contrary to what one would guess it sticks better at 55 than at 60 or higher.

Also to speed cooling if the print has a lot of hairspray, brims etc. I put the head with the fans on top at full speed (and then add the windowasher drops). This speeds up the heat dissipation from the bed/print, making it easier to remove them.

Using this method for speed up, I did actually damage some glasses. But no problem anymore with the Neoceram glass.

Ok, will try lowering bed temp to see how it goes. I really would like to skip using glue stick cause it's a pita to remove the prints.

nilrog wrote:Ok, will try lowering bed temp to see how it goes. I really would like to skip using glue stick cause it's a pita to remove the prints.

Hi all, Hi nilrog !
It might help you, it works great for me
I solved my Platec bed adhesion issues by using exclusively 3DLAC from Leon3D while following the " Neotko process"
don't spray directely on the glass, a puff on a paper towel then wipe the glass part print area
after print just keep patience for the enough cooling, then it will easy to remove.

gudo wrote:Hi all, Hi nilrog !
It might help you, it works great for me
I solved my Platec bed adhesion issues by using exclusively 3DLAC from Leon3D while following the " Neotko process"
don't spray directely on the glass, a puff on a paper towel then wipe the glass part print area
after print just keep patience for the enough cooling, then it will easy to remove.

Thanks for chiming in gudo...and thanks for all the work you have put in to enhance our Ultimakers
(I'm currently using your centrifugal fan shroud and the stabilizer and ZGE is in the works)

I have now tried two different brands of hairspray...with 60C and 55C bed temp (as reported by the controller). And none of them sticks well enough so the corners always warps slightly...but they come off easy when the bed is cooled down.

I also had a sample of Printafix that I received when I ordered some filament. So I gave that a try and it seems to give almost perfect adhesion with 55C and it is still easy to take the printed objects off the build plate. But if you look closely you can see that there is a slight tendency that it has warped.

So far the only thing that gives me good enough adhesion is a TESA glue stick...the downside is that it's a P**A to remove the printed objects...even if I try to use window washer fluids.

If it wasn't for this issue...this filament is really great and easy to use. So it seems that I need to either continue searching for some hairspray that works...or give in and buy one of the 3D-printing solutions.

Use skirt with 0.20-0.30 separation and use my Skirt trick to reinforce the corners. It will leave a perfect print.


https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3931 ... it-on-cura

Also remove some fan power for slow printa that need highlayer quality. I mean, platec/greentec prints better overhangs since it has a higher glass temp so it cools faster since is easier to move something from 200 to 100C than 200 to 50C (normal pla). So it can do much better overhangs with much less fan.

Like this: The print shows gaps and under extrusion because I was playing with a s3d option to remove blobs. So yeah, it looks weird. But is a good img of what I mean by brims and custom brim reinforced.

I did some tries with brim and it was better...but it still had a tendency to warp. But I have yet to try your trick. Although with a brim I can use a tool to pop the objects off without damaging the objects. So having them stick too much is less of a problem.

I have been thinking of reducing the fan speed to see if it makes a difference. Right now I have been using ~30% on layer two and increasing to 50% after a few more layers. But since this is with gudo's fan shroud I have started to think that it might be way too much.

(You are producing way too much stuff for us to try...my backlog keeps growing )

Oh that trick looks very promising, I'm going to try that for sure!

I'm using the buildtak flexplate. greentec sticks even better than pla. that is also why i would not use the buildtak without the flexplate directly on glass. when i tried earlier, i was not impressed as i never managed to get the prints of the buildtak surface.
At the moment, i have a large roll of greentec black, but i have the feeling that it is weaker than platec, especially regarding layeradhesion. anyone else ?

I think the stiffness of greentec is slightly less than platec. That's at least the felling I got from Gudo printed prts vs my greentec ones. Even so, after all this month of betas and test both performed equally for the zge.

Layer adhesion wise, dunno. I get pretty good parts with it. But also I never bought platec to compare it since platec colors are quite 'meh' and I need good colors for my shop Also the 10€ kilo difference is important

Neotko wrote:Use skirt with 0.20-0.30 separation and use my Skirt trick to reinforce the corners. It will leave a perfect print.

Why the separation for the skirt? Doesn't that defeat the purpose?

Since almost everyone squish the first layer it will allow the skirt to stay near, just enough to remove it easier. Also I think the most useful thing about the skirt/brim is that allows the heat to stay longer, so it helps by not letting theheat go. Ofc you can just Brim,buta small separation helps

Printed the base for the Labyrinth box in black Greentec. With filament set to 2.85 I need to increase flow to 1.10 because my spool is 2.73-2.75 in diameter.

0.15 layers, 40mm/s, 220C sliced with S3D...only tiny tiny blobs can be seen.
It is also one of the first prints with the bed stabilizer in place. There is a noticeable improvement in surface quality

Printing the lid in blue Greentec right now. That spool seems to be slightly better...2.80 in diameter.

In S3D , are you using Coast at End? I still love the quality of prints I get but get that occasional blob too

Nice print

Yes, it's enabled and set to 1.00mm. They are almost invisible...but increasing that setting does not improve the blobs. For now I'm satisfied, until I have the #gudoZGE up and running with all the flexible parts in place. That's when tuning 2.0 starts

I think that's what Fredericks/Neotoko/my tweaked S3D profile has set too