ColorFabb HT

Discussion of brand name filaments (ColorFabb Brand, NinjaFlex, Taulman, etc.)
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Amedee
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ColorFabb HT

Post by Amedee »

In case you have not seen it, ColorFabb announced a new filament: colorFabb_HT for 'High temperature resistance'

There is a micro-site for the announcement: http://ht.colorfabb.com/

They say:
One of ColorFabb_HT’s biggest asset is its elevated heat resistance temperature of 100C
Printing temperature should be between 250-280°C, which is on the high side for the standard UM couplers ;)
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by LePaul »

I was thinking....isn't that on the high side of what most printer heater blocks can support?
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Amedee »

Not for the ones with a full metal hot-end (Like E3D)
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Anders Olsson »

I am printing Polycarbonate up to 300 C with the UM2 only modified with an I2K washer between the PTFE and the block.

These kind of materials are actually quite interesting if they managed to combine good layer adhesion with high temperature resistance.
For many things I do for work 60 C (PLA) is just too low, ABS (~80 C) is just about enough but a bit tricky to print and I kind of dislike the printing properties of XT.

So maybe one should order a spool of HT :)
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by LePaul »

Question....can a UMO print this stuff? The temps look pretty high for the nozzle and print bed

Adviced 3d printing temperature:
250-280C

Adviced 3d print speed:
30 - 50 mm/s

Advised Heated bed
100-120C
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Neotko »

For high temps and easy to print I would go for bioFila PLA. Prints at pla temps, but can resist 110C-120C
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/1921 ... ?page=last

I haven't tested it, since mostly I need good colors rather than good specs.
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Amedee »

250°C+ is IMHO to hot for the PEEK...
I stay away from it.
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Izzy »

Anders, have you modified your controlling software etc, my UM2 tops out at 260'C.
May just be able to print the ColorFabb HT, but not across its range
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Meduza »

Izzy: The UM2 standard firmware is limited at 260 degrees, so yes, Anders has changed his firmware :)
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Anders Olsson »

I used to compile my own firmware with the max temperature set at 300 C.

Now days I am using the TinkerGnome firmware though and that already has the temperature limit at 300 C (at least the 15.12-version)
You can download it here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimake ... n/releases
Another advantage with that firmware is that you can use the PID bed temperature control, which at least at my printer improves the printing quality a lot.
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Izzy »

;-) now for the bombshell, how does a software virgin :roll: go about installing this?
And what do you mean PID bed temperature :oops:
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by danilius »

Download the firmware from the link above, connect your printer to your computer with a USB cable, then use Cura to upload the firmware to your printer.

PID is a method to control the temperature in a more sophisticated way. It might affect very shallow prints; in my experience tall prints (i.e. more than 10mm tall) are unaffected, and really all the bed temperatures does is to keep the plastic stuck to the bed and prevent the bottom layers from warping. Check out my print here where you can see that there is no way the top of the print was affected by the bed temperature. This was printed in ABS with no enclosure.
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Anders Olsson »

It might be different versions of the electronics board or something, but my fairly early UM2 will produce a lot of banding if not using PID-bed.
I am still curious why this happens and if/when Ultimaker ever sorted out the true cause of banding when not using PID-bed?
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Neotko »

Umm sorry big noob here.. What tha hell it's pid-bed? I know there's some PID values on my umo+ (same board and bed electronics/hardware) so umm.. What's that? And that banding it's because the bed temp fluctuates?
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Re: ColorFabb HT

Post by Anders Olsson »

There is a long thread about the PID-regulation of the heated bed on UM2 and banding here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/7907 ... um2?page=2
In short words, the bed heating used to use fast switching PID-regulation but EMC-certification issues (too much radio noise) forced Ultimaker to change to an on/off regulation known as "bang-bang"-mode.
It quickly turned out that for some reason the new bang-bang-mode induced banding on the printed objects, just downgrading to an old PID-firmware increased printing quality a lot.
(Maybe we should create a separate thread about this?)
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