What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
- LePaul
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What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I just had a print turn to spaghetti on me, the print came off the bed and the bed had glue stick and was at 60C
How frustrating.
I'm wondering what the best holding power is at for a print and temps?
I like that my prints come off the heated build plate with little effort most of the time.
What temps are best for glass only?
What temps work well for heat AND gluestick?
How frustrating.
I'm wondering what the best holding power is at for a print and temps?
I like that my prints come off the heated build plate with little effort most of the time.
What temps are best for glass only?
What temps work well for heat AND gluestick?
- Dim3nsioneer
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
You're printing PLA, correct? I also use 60°C for PLA prints and almost never had an issue. I clean the glass with a dry microfiber cloth before each print. From time to time I clean it with water and some dish washer agent which includes lactide acid. Most important (at least to the generation of UM2 mid 2014 as mine) I deepened the countersunk holes of the heater pcb so the glass is in nice thermal contact. I actually think of putting a heat conduction flexible foil in between pcb and glass in order to improve thermal contact. The reason for this is because I think most delamination issues at reasonable bed temps come from zones which are badly thermally connected to the pcb and therefore cooler than they should be.
- Amedee
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
There is no magic answer, it really depends on the material...
You want to be around the glass transition temperature, but not too much above. 60°C is a good start for PLA.
Most of the time with PLA, I get best adhesion with clean bed. When a print goes wrong it is typically because the bed is dirty.
In case of trouble I use a bit of hairspray... (But normally not for PLA)
You want to be around the glass transition temperature, but not too much above. 60°C is a good start for PLA.
Most of the time with PLA, I get best adhesion with clean bed. When a print goes wrong it is typically because the bed is dirty.
In case of trouble I use a bit of hairspray... (But normally not for PLA)
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
For PLA I use 60°C and no glue, just a clean glass. For ABS I use 90°C and the glue stick that came with my UM2. That works fine for almost all of my prints. If I had problems, it was usually that I didn't clean the glass for a longer time. I only use a slightly wet cloth for that.
- drayson
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I got a sample of extrudr's pearl - highly biodegererable stuff and tried up to 65. unfortunately the psu and my heater wont make it higher...
Extrudr saus bed at 60 is recommended, but it has a very bad adhession...
Beside this I usually print pla at 55...
Extrudr saus bed at 60 is recommended, but it has a very bad adhession...
Beside this I usually print pla at 55...
- Izzy
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I rarely use glue stick any more when printing with PLA, I use a good quality hair spray.
It gives a very thin layer that the PLA adheres to, you just have to make sure that you have a big enough base layer or add brim to help.
It also doesn't cause as much mess on the glass plate, and every 40 or so prints I just wash the plate in hot water.
It gives a very thin layer that the PLA adheres to, you just have to make sure that you have a big enough base layer or add brim to help.
It also doesn't cause as much mess on the glass plate, and every 40 or so prints I just wash the plate in hot water.
- LePaul
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I hate using brim. Annoying to clean up
So 60c seems to be the glass only temp you guys have had luck with
I found using a damp cloth with glue stick helped. But maybe I wiped away too much glue in this last attempt
Maybe the watered down Elmers glue is a good thing to try too?
So 60c seems to be the glass only temp you guys have had luck with
I found using a damp cloth with glue stick helped. But maybe I wiped away too much glue in this last attempt
Maybe the watered down Elmers glue is a good thing to try too?
- drayson
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I tied wood glue - 1 part glue, 2 parts water - before I got my heated bed. Worked like a charm.
Used a brush to spread id even and let it dry. but nowadays - 55-60°C
Used a brush to spread id even and let it dry. but nowadays - 55-60°C
- LePaul
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I'm using ColorFabb PLA/PHA almost exclusively these days. I just have the best luck with it
I cleaned the glass with Windex a bit ago. I'll try more heat on my next attempt
I cleaned the glass with Windex a bit ago. I'll try more heat on my next attempt
- Titus
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I'm trying to bring my bed temp down, to see if my parts turn out nicer.
- LePaul
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
Well that was my goal too. Too much heat causes problems with overhangs since the UMO has only one fan. So I am trying to find the glue - bed temp sweet spot
- LePaul
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
Well success....set temp to 55 with glue stick and print stayed in place
Maybe it needed a thorough Windex cleaning after all.
My one gripe with the glue stick is sometimes little bits/chucks come off, so I don't always get a smooth "smear".
Maybe it needed a thorough Windex cleaning after all.
My one gripe with the glue stick is sometimes little bits/chucks come off, so I don't always get a smooth "smear".
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I noticed such bits comming of sometimes too, but only when applying the glue over existing glue e.g. when crossing over previously applied lines of glue.
- drayson
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
Guys, a bit off-topic - but related to this topic...
I hope you appology...
I would, love but can´t bring my bed hotter than 60/65°C to test some material like Extrudr Pearl, XT or ABL mainly because of my silicon heater and it´s PSU.
Tired 70 but this took AGES... ~15min.
Maybe someone of you has an idea...
My silicon heater is a 215 x 215mm Ni-Cr Silicone self-adhesive heater which can be used in different modes (acc. to ebay).
- Low temperature - at 12V 8A 96W about 60 deg C => what I do...
- High temperature - at 18V 12A 216W => what I like to do...
Problem: I don´t want to use a Meanwell-style PSU but can´t find a notebook/desktop PSU for 18V/12A...
Any hint??
What happens when using a 19,5V/16,5A/330W DELL notebook/desktop PSU? or second option a 19.5V 11.8A 230W PSU. Smoke???
As mentione, any hint appreciated...
I hope you appology...
I would, love but can´t bring my bed hotter than 60/65°C to test some material like Extrudr Pearl, XT or ABL mainly because of my silicon heater and it´s PSU.
Tired 70 but this took AGES... ~15min.
Maybe someone of you has an idea...
My silicon heater is a 215 x 215mm Ni-Cr Silicone self-adhesive heater which can be used in different modes (acc. to ebay).
- Low temperature - at 12V 8A 96W about 60 deg C => what I do...
- High temperature - at 18V 12A 216W => what I like to do...
Problem: I don´t want to use a Meanwell-style PSU but can´t find a notebook/desktop PSU for 18V/12A...
Any hint??
What happens when using a 19,5V/16,5A/330W DELL notebook/desktop PSU? or second option a 19.5V 11.8A 230W PSU. Smoke???
As mentione, any hint appreciated...
- Amedee
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Re: What's the magic temperature for the heated bed?
I guess you are using a relay to isolate the power of your HB, so if that relay can take the voltage/current, you are good from that side.
On the bed side, heating at 19,5V will go a bit faster, no risk as long as your temperature is regulated (Unregulated can be an issue as it could go beyond the max temp it can handle)
On the bed side, heating at 19,5V will go a bit faster, no risk as long as your temperature is regulated (Unregulated can be an issue as it could go beyond the max temp it can handle)