3D Printing Forum

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/2218 ... inting-kit

Front door looks interesting, I can't tell how it opens from the photo?

The surface adhesion sheet looks interesting. From the forum posts I have seen, I don't see where you can buy the sheets separate from the kit (yet)?

Has anyone tried this out?

Looking at the photo of the door, it looks like little friction spring clips, so just pop it into place and pull to remove.
I'm not sure about the adhesive sheets, perhaps a bit of hassle applying them and then cleaning them off before applying a new one. I think I will stick to using my wife's hairspray

This is how the door is mounted:

Thanks for the clear views!

Wow. Nice. I wonder how much would cost to make side panels on acrylic with that clever clip system for my umo+

I've thought the same for my UMO

LePaul wrote:Thanks for the clear views!

You asked, and i guessed that i was one of the few people that had it easily accessible

with ABS having a frontal door is quite usefull (above all if the ambient where is collocated the printer is suffering from air currents)
but it must be possible to open on a side when you print big model or the air moved from the little rear vent will bounce back to the model bringing it to detachment.. instead with a door that will open on a side you can open it a couple of cm, just the needed so it can not bounce back on the model

So, the door with the KIT sucks IMO

Nice for the sheets they sell but REALLY poor the fact they sell only with the kit! that is inconceivable...

For who wants some sheets of katpton or PET can buy it on Conrad site for few Euro...
Kapton:
http://www.conrad.it/ce/it/product/1093 ... 2?ref=list
PET
http://www.conrad.it/ce/it/product/1093 ... 2?ref=list

I have been using the makershop.fr-hood and door for some time:
http://www.makershop.fr/pieces-detachee ... maker.html I would say the door of that kit is really nice, it is the best part of the kit! I don't understand why Ultimaker designed their own door instead of including this one in their product range.

The hood is not bad too, but I would have preferred it to extend a bit further on the back instead of having that black fabric that covers the bowden. As it is now it is difficult to modify it for dual bowdens for example.

Don't buy it for the air cleaner by the way, it is really not helping that much, although encapsulating the printer is a big advantage in general when it comes to reducing ABS fumes.

The Nozzle holder looks clever too

That one is indeed very nice, I use it as well.

This is the design:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-mag

Only thing I still am going to buy for my UM2 is the flexdrive if it ever makes it in to a regular product

Blizz wrote:Only thing I still am going to buy for my UM2 is the flexdrive if it ever makes it in to a regular product

I have a kit at home and I think that in it's current form it is too complicated to become an after market upgrade.
It has an immense number of components, and then there are still several things that needs to be printed by the user.
Sourcing, all those components, keeping them in stock and making instructions/models good enough for the average user to print and assemble it will be difficult.

Since quite a while I am using the door hinges from closed-chamber-green-house-um2 together with an acrylic plate that I ordered cut to size very successfully. I now consider adding a top cover like the one described in ulticover-the-ultimaker2-cover-enclosure but with fabric from some pleating shades instead of folded paper.

Been testing some of the stickers and IMO they suck big time. Not because they don't stick I'm sure they do, but for me I want perfect flat no scratch/defects surface, and unless you are a PROfesional vinyl placer (and I did some work on that for a few long ago) it's a big pain to fully place it on the glass without bubbles. In theory you should wet the glass to have some 'wiggle' room, and by doing that it get's easier. The bubbles, if you are patience, and with a credit that you place the adhesive, you can 'more or less' to place it fully, the problem is that because the adhesive it's quite strong (but easy and clean to remove) it's quite a pain in the but to keep all straight and perfect. In the end after wasting 2 stickers I was able to place one, but still because all the adjustments and unstick-stick and one by one cleaning all bubbles, the surface it's FAR from perfect. IMO, for my stuff where the bottom layer is as important as the top layer, they SUUUUUUCK.

I have a Geckotek plate that will arrive this week hopefully. That at least promises fast-easy removal. I could go for builtak but the bottom layer on that builtak also is very easy to damage = bad bottom layers.

Seems so far I'm stuck with glass + hairspray for my pla-tec prints...