UM2 print head project

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LePaul
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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby LePaul » July 20th, 2016, 2:42 pm

Impressive....I've been following your thread on Ultimaker and here

You certainly caught our attention with the print bed supports, too

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Izzy
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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Izzy » July 21st, 2016, 2:03 pm

Some thing I have done a few times to help warping is to print a couple of layers and then pause, then using some tape, tape the brim to the bed then continue to print, it provided just enough adhersion to keep the brim on the bed.

also I wish Cura would let us edit supports, I wanted to increase the foot area of some supports as the were too slim and tall and broke, I ended up using blue tack to stabilise them, I'm considering producing some stabilising towers at different heights that I can tape/tack in place to stabilise some taller structures.
Izzy.

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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby gudo » July 21st, 2016, 5:18 pm

Izzy wrote:Some thing I have done a few times to help warping is to print a couple of layers and then pause, then using some tape, tape the brim to the bed then continue to print, it provided just enough adhersion to keep the brim on the bed.

Hi Izzy
I like this idea, it's a good trick,
inspiring me how I fix the pieces on my milling machine table, I search a similar method to the printer, it's not obvious ! that it is heated and glass, can be invent small fusible clamps for fixing the 2 or 3 first layers printed adhesion sheet :?: :idea:
Also, millimeter grid engraved on the glass will be handy :roll:

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Izzy
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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Izzy » July 22nd, 2016, 4:55 pm

But if you engraved a grid into the glass you wouldn't get a smooth bottom surface.
The blue tack has worked well for beefing up the week support after it has built up about 10mm.
For the remov able support towers I was looking at some tacky tape that allows you to remove and reposition, although again using bluetac to hold them down would work, and using blue tack to hold to the vertical edge.
But for the tape reinforcing the brim I use magic tape, even worked on some ABS pieces ;-)
Izzy.

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Izzy
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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Izzy » July 22nd, 2016, 5:00 pm

For your milling machine table look at some magnetic clamps, or producing your own using the magnetic base from a DTI.
Izzy.

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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby gudo » August 6th, 2016, 8:05 am

Hi to all
It's vacation time, but this is not a reason to relax in 3D printing ! :mrgreen:
here Biofila PLA TEC print test, I really love this material !
it is not perfect yet but it is encouraging ;-)
.
Image
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Neotko
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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Neotko » August 6th, 2016, 10:09 am

Play with the nozzle size so that corners get full lines. Ifor a 0.4 nozzle you can go 0.33 if you have perfect zero drip between moves (and looks you do). Nice print!

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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby gudo » August 6th, 2016, 12:41 pm

Thanks Neotko !
I'll try following your advice ;-)

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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby gudo » August 17th, 2016, 6:54 am

Neotko wrote:Play with the nozzle size so that corners get full lines. Ifor a 0.4 nozzle you can go 0.33 if you have perfect zero drip between moves (and looks you do). Nice print!

Hi all
Neotko ! I test the 0.33 nozzle setting, my home town's blazon (70x76x5.8mm ) low relief print (PLA TEC material) , it seems not so bad !
there is just some tiny holes

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Neotko
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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Neotko » August 17th, 2016, 7:09 am

Very nice. I compensate sometimes with a bigger infill %overlap but it highly depends of how much repetition you need (took me a good month to get the first perfect settings of my keychains and I still tweak them)

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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Iltacitoduca » September 15th, 2016, 11:31 am

I was following this post in hope that Gudo could tell more about PBI compatibility with ABS... but I could not wait ... so I bought a 300mm rod of PBI to experience the long-time compatibility :-D

I want try it with the new nozzles made of an alloy of Copper beryllium even if the alloy of aluminium bronze already installed is working quite fine right now :-|

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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Iltacitoduca » September 22nd, 2016, 11:38 am

Some data on PBI if anyone would try this material in the future:
Used as hot end isolator/coupler it doesn't heat, at least at 250°C(all reference are about this temperature) it remains totally cold! (as Gudo as already wrote)
It's stiff and is not prone to deformation
It's an excelent material at machining with a lathe and give a perfect surface at the first pass

The Negative side :
Coefficient of Friction is not so fine as PTFE(about 0,24 Vs 0,04)
due to the characteristics indicated above the contact area with the hot end must be perfectly in plane and smooth as a specular surface OR when you have a minimal pressure in the hot end, will give you spillage of the material used (ABS, PLA, PA).
I don't think that the print head that Guido proposed could work with no problem for long time, for sure could not with such a simply project ( I mean in the contact area with the hot side )

I am quite sure it must be a bit more elaborated to prevent spilling with any material and making the services a simply affair.. thing that it could not be as is...

The contact interface between PBI and the metal part(hot end) must have the right sealing without overtightening of the parts.

PBI is a weird technopolymer, due to its very high working temperature could be used profitably but need a good mechanical project to take advantage about it

all material I tested (ABS, PLA and PA) don't stick on PBI (referred to the line of contact with the metal hot end)

But using atomic method to clean the nozzle, showed the limit of the indeformability of the PBI

PBI doesn't cover the tollerance error of realization as can do PTFE and like PEEK need a perfect plain surface and something that block it in the position and compensate for temperature variation or it will crack as Gudo has experienced

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Neotko
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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Neotko » September 22nd, 2016, 12:55 pm

I did some tests today, and it works quite nice IF you have a bondtech of high torque feeder.

There's a point, after 1000-2000 retractions where the heat crawls up on the filament, expands and increases the friction to the point that the feeder can't push the filament. It doesn't make a clog perse, since the filament can be push and atomic can be done without problems, but when that happens the filament need's a high torque feeder.

So for this today after testing again with the normal feeder (Gudo knows about my first test before the summer) I installed the Full bondtech (with his planetary motor and all the stuff) and it worked, 4 prints in a row with 1000-2000 retractions each and no problems, the filament didn't suffer so the print quality was ok but there's a point where it clearly needs a real MOTOR force to keep pushing pla.

I must add that the print quality was the same as with TFM and everything worked nice (except that it clearly needs high torque), I would like to try with my FatIRobertI version with a small 3:1 torque box to see if that's enough, but I'm flooded with stuff to do.

OFC Gudo if you read this msg, if you want the 2 PIB back so others can test it please just send me a PM, this couplers are a beauty of craftmanship.

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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Iltacitoduca » September 23rd, 2016, 3:38 am

What about other more interesting materials? like Carbon filled ABS or PA or PC... sincerly I find PLA useless IMO

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Re: UM2 print head project

Postby Iltacitoduca » September 23rd, 2016, 4:46 am

Neotko wrote:....

There's a point, after 1000-2000 retractions where the heat crawls up on the filament, expands and increases the friction to the point that the feeder can't push the filament. It doesn't make a clog perse, since the filament can be push and atomic can be done without problems, but when that happens the filament need's a high torque feeder....


This point is not clear to me... I mean how the heat could crawls up the filament if this one is moving down to the nozzle?
If the filament was stationary it could happen (perhaps) but it is moving... so the cold part of filament take the place of the hot ones that is near to the metal (or already in contact...)

and some data on the test print? speed, layer, temperature,etc. would be useful (even some picture to evaluate the quality ..)

....
Bondtech is a fine aid to 3d print I know... but I have some doubt about the principle on it was developed.. I mean two gears in contact have strictly tolerance to works fine, on Bondtech one of the gear is floating... and a floating part introduce errors when direction change (above all when you have a print with a lot of retraction, or/and the filament change in diameter)


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