3D Printing Forum

You may have already tried this...but...I wonder, if you look on eBay, there are those China Ultimaker 2 fan shrouds with fan. Has anyone tried using that on a UMO print head? I have a spare print head from the dual kit, so lining up the threaded rod holes would be easy...not sure the opening for th...

I have been trying to follow the thread you have at Ultimaker and here....since my next bit of testing in the XT-CF20, I'm curious the status of your dual shroud?

Good to know

So then I am going to be back to my original problem...use the (crappy) vinyl fan shroud included with the UMO or fabricate something

I have had several such ruby-popping incidents with previous prototypes by the way, even figured out a method of getting the ruby clean enough to reuse it :-) Completely useless reaction but... I actually read "pooping incidents" and shortly thought that would be an awesome, yet painful s...

Just got home a bit ago and scrolling through the Filament thread on XT-CF20. I also looked at Neotko's fan shroud tutorial to see his settings as well. I'm not sure about two things...(1) Glue stick? and (2) Retractions? Filament thread here http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=14...

No retractions?

Don't dare try white yet....went with Silver Metallic

I'll order a roll of nGen and see how it goes since it strikes me as "friendlier" based on your experience

Do you like XT? I know some had trouble with it

Have many used this and like it? My reason for asking is the BB-8 build. I am concerned about heat, be it from the internal motors to the sun shining on the plastic when outside. I know a few builders just used higher infill to combat warping from heat with PLA. And others went with ABS, but I reall...

Okay, good to hear I have done something correct and multiple people agree (Maybe I should print and hang this?)

Now, for a proper XT-CF20 test....I know fans off (Advanced Tab)

What would you guys suggest for Cura settings and a good test model, perhaps something we can all try printing

Question....can a UMO print this stuff? The temps look pretty high for the nozzle and print bed

Adviced 3d printing temperature:
250-280C

Adviced 3d print speed:
30 - 50 mm/s

Advised Heated bed
100-120C

Well I made sure that brass pipe is in the block as far as it can go

It's not flush but the gap is about two pieces of paper!

Just to be sure I am clear at what you guys suggest...

1 Remove ruby nozzle
2 Use pliers to hold the PEEK and gently twist the brass pipe tighter?
3 re-install ruby nozzle, notice a small gap between heater block and nozzle?

I don't have anything yet...I haven't dared use it yet