3D Printing Forum

Or you can just wrap the cables in tin foil (or aluminium foil for us Europeans). Ideally, connect the foil to something grounded (depending on the LCD board, the mounting holes may or may not be connected to GND. Best connection for EMI/EFI shielding is a non-painted metal frame power supply unit (...

Yup, those transistors have 0 chance of surviving a short circuit
Fine example of "maker electronics".

I just hate the HUUUUGE fuss about that movie. I mean come on, electric shavers now come in 5 different lightsaber themed color variations???
It's just a movie, and certainly not a THAT good one. Calm down world

I played "They are Billions" until 3 am last night +.+

(It's great but I suck at it)

STL thumbnails would be great! I have a "downloaded stuff from thingiverse" folder which is taking up like 75% of my dropbox and have no clue what most of that stuff even is

Might take a look at that viewer, thank you for sharing!

LePaul wrote: ↑November 29th, 2017, 12:44 pm What's everyone building these days?

Building up my fitness again. Gets harder when you get older

Afaik, the slicer "slices" the model AT the specified layer height. So, for the initial layer (say 0.25mm initial layer thickness), it will not take the actual bottom part, but the first slice at 0.25mm. If your sealing is only 0.1mm thick, then at the 0.25mm slice the hole will already be...

I suppose you did set your nozzle diameter in Cura to 0.5 mm? Generally, with a larger nozzle you should print a bit slower (0.5 mm is 20% larger than 0.4 mm, so try printing 20% slower than what was ideal with 0.4 mm). By the way, this also counts for layer height. If you compare 0.1mm layer height...

I assume your printer can handle the 2.85mm Filament? Kind of an odd size. I thought all filament was either 1.75mm or 3mm. Actually there are no 3mm 3D-printer-filaments nor printers. "3mm" is often used for 2.85mm which is the actual filament diameter. Don't ask me which joker came up w...

Looks like a weird sex toy for men o.O

/edit: (Hope I didn't ruin that model for you )

White PLA can be tricky. I've had very good ones (Diamond Age - their white is pretty much like any other color PLA), and utterly crappy ones (PLA HT from Orbi-Tech). I'm not sure about Colorfabb white PLA. I think I remember it was one of the not-so-good ones, but I personally don't like the Colorf...

Looks very nice! I have some lime green filament from Diamond Age - one of the best PLAs I've ever had - printing wise. It just prints that little bit better than others. Maybe the green color particles aren't interfering with printability as much as other particles... My best one is the blue transl...

It can be interference or GND bounce. Interference does of course have a much greater impact when the cable is not shielded (properly). Cable length also can make a difference, but USB2.0 cables are specified to be up to 4.8m long. A properly made cable should have no issues whatsoever at that lengt...

Let me ask you this...does your USB cable have ferrite cores on them? I've read on the Octoprint groups of some concern about the cables being susceptible to motor/electronic noise The ferrite cores aren't usually the thing about USB cables. It is the fact that many USB cables don't have their shie...

Unless you don't have access to the Apache Server where you're hosting the forum... If you're using the same password "everywhere" on the internet, then there is no hope for you anyways :) There is a reputable software company whose name shall not be stated here which provides its expensiv...