3D Printing Forum

Random update: I haven't touched the printer in several days, mostly out of frustration. About ten minutes ago I placed an order on Amazon for end stops. I'm going to pull out the inductive sensor and add the mechanical switch instead. That, at least, should solve the issue of the z-axis not getting...

1) Now, on top of the no extruding issue, the printer has decided to start printing well above the bed. I've changed no hardware or software since my last posting of issues. I manually lower the z-axis so the nozzle tip is juuuust above the bed (sheet of card stock paper thickness), level the bed (c...

GrueMaster wrote: ↑September 14th, 2017, 10:34 pm Does the gear rotate freely? From the pics, it looks like the gear may be too close to the motor (enough for the set screw to bind). I could be wrong though.

Seems to spin just fine.

I pretty much give up.

There's nothing for the extruder gear to rub on. It's recessed closer to the motor than the edge of extruder assembly. The heatsink for the fan has a cut out larger than the diameter of the gear (so even if it were sticking out, it wouldn't rub).

Got it... I was right (and wrong) about the temp. The turbo fan was going nuts at full power (not my setting) and was cooling the PLA right in the nozzle.

Unfortunately, Cura (14.12) can't control the fan!! The machine itself is forcing the fan to 100%, so I had to disconnect it.

When controlled manually (via the console->move axis) the extruder motor runs just fine. If I try to run with the e-motor's fan off (so I can see the motor) the thing bitches at me about the temp and shuts down. It's almost as if once the fan is attached, it's cooling the heat break so much, the pip...

I'm really at a loss here... I got everything re-assembled after replacing the bearings and all looked ready to go. I went to print a calibration cube and ran into my old friend "not a damn thing is extruding". Nozzle is at temp (200), filament seems to be seated in the extruder motor and ...

Is there a good tutorial or explanation of all of the little settings in the firmware, stuff like steps and all that?

That's correct, for my 3DP-11-ATL. The distance between the holes in the assembly heatsink is greater than the distance on the carriage. I was rather disappointed, I really liked the look.

I figured that part of my trouble with extrusion was because the filament wasn't quite making it into the tiny hole at the bottom of the plastic in the stock extruder. So, I purchased a replacement ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196B285I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), but ...

Jesus Christ... Now I'm getting "Heating failed" and the unit won't do anything. Note - I took off the fan and heatsink so I could get at the extruder faster.

Oh sweet baby Jesus, I am about ready to put this thing through a window.... I've spent the last two hours screwing with it and it won't do a damn thing right. Came home to try to print some stuff, figured I'd get everything heated up and ready to go. I manually turned the temp up, waiting for it to...

The profiles are for my environment and may need adjusting for yours. Thou this will give you a starting point. The environments should be pretty identical, though, right? Other than firmware, color, spool hanger, wire chain (working on that tonight), and the z-axis sensor location / offset...our 2...

The wiring for the sensor came done for me already, so there's that. I'm considering flashing Marlin 1.1.0-RC5 using the configuration.h found here: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?406,656276 , as a starting point. I suppose I could jump right to the most recent release, 1.1.5, but it looks like y...

The kit I bought off of Amazon actually came with a z-axis sensor: Sensor . I guess I'm just not sure how to calibrate it or properly position it. I eventually got the printer to work, but printing directly on the aluminum plate, not tape (printing PLA). Still, I definitely need to run some calibrat...