3D Printing Forum

Same here. I remember getting ~3ft of nice powder snow (~1 Meter) as a kid. It would last for at least a month. Great for sledding or learning to ski. Now, rain. Cold rain. When the temp drops too much, freezing rain. When it does snow, we get a few inches, then freezing rain. Then it warms up, and ...

I have the Emergency Stop button working just fine. It may take a little to tweak the config to your liking. Here is the default after installing and restarting Octoprint: Octoprint-estop-default.png Note how it is at the bottom of the sidebar, below the files and not very convenient. After editing ...

Actually, the 'bulk' of the work load is when you drag/drop an STL and have the old cura engine on the pi do the slice & dice. Mine on average are only ~30% loaded, with streaming video and live gcode tracking. Still 1 printer/pi. Same is true for PC unless you have the horsepower to run two sli...

You need to enable EMERGENCY STOP to actually use it. See https://github.com/ntoff/OctoPrint-Estop. For other plugins, I'd recommend just playing around with them. The Octoprint guys are really good about kicking malicious or untested plugins off their installer, so you 'should' be fairly safe.

Next step for me is to configure 2 cameras/printer. One webcam for watching the whole printer, and an endoscope mounted to the print head to monitor the extruder output up close.

Lots of questions beg for lots of answers. Let me see if I can clear some of this for you. To change the hostname without remote logging in, you can shut down the system and create octopi-hostname.txt on the boot partition (Windows will see this partition). Make sure NOT to use notepad (use a real e...

Still only 32bit on Linux. And it hung my system in ~30 seconds.

Sticking with Cura. Better Linux support (even though it doesn't have custom supports).

No, because my controller is in a metal case already. I have it, just haven't had the need to use it.

BTW. if you ever feel like moving your displays down to the front (Prussia style), here is a case remix you will need for the stock displays. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2742069 You can get the back part from the original thing. I may remix the remix to put my SD extension cable in it for easy...

Ok, looks like the 3DP-11/12. AFAIK, the only difference is mine has a filament sensor (more trouble than it is worth imo).

Take your time assembling it. Make sure everything is square. It will save you a lot of trouble in the long run.

Sounds like the same one I have. Hard to tell. They keep changing model numbers (mine was the 3DP-17, then relabeled 3DP-14 on Amazon shortly after I bought it). As long as it isn't one of the plastic frame printers, you should be quite happy.

And welcome to you club!

New issue. Z-Axis steppers drift out of sync. At first, I thought my bed was just shaking loose a bit and needed to relevel after a while. Used a couple of leveling rods I printed for my 3DP-17, and discovered the right side was out by almost 2mm.

Haven't gotten that far yet. Will have to sit down and formulate some ideas. Just wanted to see if there was interest in this type of thing.

There are a couple of prints online now that the user wants in purple. May take them if I can get my CR-10S back online (bed is way out of level). ~8 hours of printing time for ~$15. Meh.

Depends on which printer you purchased. I have both the Hictop 3DP-17 Autoleveling printer, and the Hictop CR-10S. Each has mods unique to it with some similarities. If you have one of the 3DP models with an autolevel sensor: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1534152 https://www.thingiverse.com/thin...