3D Printing Forum

The multiple taps for the 12V are *probably* from the same internal PSU source, you could splice and add a single 12AWG feed wire if that is true. You of course would have to absolutely make sure that is the case. A check on the connector/PSU spec's on-line would tell the story as PC type PSU's are...

Your PSU appears to have plenty of output/watts. Just make sure you use at least 12AWG wire feed from PSU to controller. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Yeah that's part of the problem. The PSU isn't designed to put such a high load on just two wires so it has quite small gauge wire: typical...

Funny you ask, In fact I just now as of yesterday have my HIC i3 finally printing very well with the now default EEPROM and firmware settings. No more tweaking on the LCD or Slic3r/Cura to get a default standard quality print going. Turn it on, upload .stl to host and print. Stand by, will post the...

4) Power Supply : The OEM is seriously underrated . The supplied power supply (PSU) is rated 12volts @ 20 amps, this is NOT enough power to properly run this printer. As soon as pre-heat on the the bed and nozzle is performed the output on mine with stock supplied wire dropped to 9.4 volts !, you c...

Yes, however Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 has auto-leveling (probing type) and is disabled by default; if you read the guide on reprap.org they do not suggest it and I have not tired to enable it. My HIC i3 came with a inductive z-probe and helped a lot for auto-z homing position, I believe this is what 'China...

No kidding!

I'm totally new to the 3D printing world, but I just bought a the HICTOP 3DP-11. Right off the bat I've been extremely impressed with the quality of prints so far, but I can see from the discussions here that there's plenty I can improve on! Just wanted to say thanks for all the effort that people h...